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FRAM Ultra @20K Miles

DanW

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As long as you are aware of the risks involved by not changing filter then all is good. You are tripling the chance of destroying your motor by waiting 20K to change a filter. We had a employee who did this back in the 90's. $50,000 Volvo engine threw a rod all because of the filter clogging and bypass failing.

I personally would not risk it. Not my vehicle though. BTW, that filter is is really really dark and looks like it was about to crumple.
I'm with you in that it just makes me too nervous to go that far, and I certainly don't need to save the $$ or I wouldn't own this overpriced rolling gold brick. But I 100% guarantee you the filter was not about to cruble. I'd be more concerned about it reaching its particle holding capacity. But this engine combined with the quality of new synthetic oils doesn't push it as hard as other engines or lesser quality oils. And @CarbonSteel has done plenty of used oil analyses to have an idea of the condition of the oil and filter at various mileage leading up to this. He didn't just dive right into 20k miles. He built up to that with careful analysis.

The key stats are insolubles and any sign of oxidation. With him changing at 5k, oxidation just won't be an issue. And Fram's R&D center tests these things to 20k over and over in engines and with oils that punish them much more than the Pentastar. He and I know this from a Fram engineer who was on BITOG and participated in the development of the XG line of filters. But that said, I just don't have the guts to do what he did, Lol. But I'm not surprised at all that it did just fine.

The strength of that filter is far beyond what you would imagine. If @CarbonSteel tears it apart, I'm confident he'll report that it was VERY difficult to do. It is a strong synthetic media backed by a web of nylon or monofilament type material that is bonded to it. The glue on the end caps is so strong that even this strong media will tear before it does. I was unable to separate it from the endcaps.

I've run a Mobil 1 filter (2 OCI's) just to see how they would do (that's as far as I could bear to go). They are not even in the same zip code for pleat strength as the Fram Ultra, but they showed no signs of structural failure and there was no oxidation and insolubles were exactly the same as with 1 OCI. (I actually typically see 1/3 lower insolubles when running the Fram XG, whether at 6k or 12k in my JK. Most often, the M1 filter shows 0.3% insolubles whereas the Fram shows 0.2. On occasion the M1 will show 0.2, but mostly 0.3. The Fram has never shown above 0.2.)

When oil oxidizes is really when a filter loads up, not because of normal particle accumulation. If that oil was oxidizing, which is just not going to happen in a healthy engine at 5k with Shell RTG, it would not only load up the filter, but you'd be able to see it with your eyes. It would be gunky looking, almost like you'd imagine unrefined crude oil to look. His pleats look clean. These major brand highly developed synthetic oils simply protect well enough to keep the particle count from getting high enough to load that filter, or most filters, in 20k miles. That's why you are seeing filter companies advertise 20k on their premium filters. It is becoming the new standard for premium filters.

What would be fun is to see if someone has the courage to run Mobil 1 EP 0w20 for 20k miles. I believe that in a Pentastar, it would easily do it and be in decent shape at the end due to its high PAO content. The oil was designed to survive a turbo/DI engine for that long, which would punish it far worse than this 3.6. Btw, I ran 10k every OCI on our Ford Transit's Ecoboost. The Mobil 1 EP 5w30 held up well, but by then did show some fuel dilution. I only did that because my wife piled miles up so quickly that I could not keep up with 5k intervals. She now has a JLUR and thank God it is so easy to change. I'll have no trouble keeping up with it. But it also would be much less punishing to the oil than that Ford was.

I'll stick with mostly 5k but occiasional 7k to 8k runs in my JL's, and 6k runs in my JK (Lifetime warranty limit). But I like having the confidence that the oil and filter could go much longer.

One last note, He runs the RGT only 5k because we've seen many UOA's on Bitog where that seems to be the sweet spot for that oil in turbo/DI engines. I'm certain it could handle the 8k to 9k or so that our Pentastars are allowed by the oil life monitor. It is a great oil but does not hold up to longer runs as well as some others. The TBN his showed is about where I'd change it, too.

Side note: Fram has changed the construction of their filters by switching from all synthetic to a cellulose/synthetic combo that they publish with slightly better results than the previous media. Their spin-on filters will no longer be backed by metal webbing because the cellulose holds up better than synthetic. However, we don't know if the cartridge filter will change, or not. I've not seen that yet. But one nice thing is that they told me they will move the cartridge production from Korea to the USA. I'll run one and tear it apart when I see one. So far, even with the new packaging, they have not changed and are still made in Korea. Stay tuned.
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DanW

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This is devolving rapidly into a BITOG discussion. But, we all have our ways and habits. I don't necessarily need the best filter or best oil on the market. Just one that's good. I don't keep my vehicles 300,000 miles nor would want one with 300,000 miles on it. IMO, the vehicle would most likely be a POS by then, regardless of the engine condition. In a world where any brand name oil with the vehicle mfrs spec is met and the filter is either OEM or better, I'm more concerned with radiator fluid changes.

And for the record, I don't believe filtration in an engine gets better and better as the filter gets more and more contaminated. The bypass just opens sooner. That means NO filtration. That old filter argument is and was BS ages ago.
LOL, Bitog Lite, or Jeep BItog FTW! Btw, folks are much more polite and friendly here than on Bitog, so I'm good with it.
 

roaniecowpony

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Running the filter that long reminded me of that thread where the guy broke off the tip of the filter in the engine. Plastics lose their solvents with age and temperature. Might increase the likelyhood of something similar to that tip breaking on a filter.

Which reminds me, I need to change the oil in the JLUR.
 

191185

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Same part number - XG11665. Likely have to order online. I found a few recently at my local WM, but they are usually out of stock.
Is that the part number for the 3.6 ? Anyone know why Amazon AND Walmart say it does not work with this vehicle ?
 
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CarbonSteel

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And for the record, I don't believe filtration in an engine gets better and better as the filter gets more and more contaminated. The bypass just opens sooner. That means NO filtration. That old filter argument is and was BS ages ago.
You might want to read up on it, it is a proven fact for both oil and air filters right up to the point of it reaching its particulate holding capacity--particularly where synthetic media is concerned.

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CarbonSteel

CarbonSteel

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Is that the part number for the 3.6 ? Anyone know why Amazon AND Walmart say it does not work with this vehicle ?
Yes, it is. I am not sure why they are saying it does not work with the 3.6L, it certainly does.
 
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CarbonSteel

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I had set the filter aside to be recycled at AZ, but given the concerns and comments about its durability, I will try to video the "deconstruction" of it. I can say that I opened the pleats and there was no appreciable amount of particulates--not that I would expect there to be on 5K oil changes in an engine with only 40K miles on it that has had 11 OCs in that span.

More to follow...
 
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HungryHound

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FWIW, I change my oil and filters every 3,000 miles. I have two 20+ year old Lexus's, a 16 year old GMC truck and had various other trucks and cars with over 300,000 miles on the odometer. Dozens of small 25kw to 150kw generators with 20,000+ hrs doing the every 200 hour oil and filter change. Every one of them with same engine nothing more than water pumps and timing belts (Lexus's) replaced.

No science, data or anything other than my own analytical experience. Take it for what it's worth.

It's cool man. No matter what proof or what anyone says your mind is made up. So carry on and enjoy your 20K cheap filter changes. All I can do is share my experience just as you share yours.
Lexus, heck, I have a 23 year old Jeep TJ running Fram filters and Castrol GT oil its whole life. I think it's cool that the OP is experimenting with his vehicle and filters if that's what turns his crank (pun intended). Just not something I choose to complicate in my life.
 

jellis4148

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The better question is why not? FRAM Ultras are rated for 20K miles and have an efficiency rating of 99.9% at 20um.

Somehow, I think you think changing them more often is better, so how is it better? What would be different if I changed them more often?

Based upon the countless UOAs that I have done, I can tell you there would be nothing different.


Changing them more often so you don't have a sludge up engine. I've seen countless vehicles in service getting the engine replaced because people went 10k average for oil changes. The oil is the life blood of the vehicle. Why wouldn't you change it more often to ensure it is nice and clean? I don't care what the rating is. Doing that gives that one little piece of dirt/trash a better chance of plugging up one your oiling holes in the block and starving a section of your engine.
 
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Changing them more often so you don't have a sludge up engine. I've seen countless vehicles in service getting the engine replaced because people went 10k average for oil changes. The oil is the life blood of the vehicle. Why wouldn't you change it more often to ensure it is nice and clean? I don't care what the rating is. Doing that gives that one little piece of dirt/trash a better chance of plugging up one your oiling holes in the block and starving a section of your engine.
Oil filters do not sludge up engines, continuing to run worn out oil does. Since I am changing the oil every 5K miles and since there is no appreciable particulates in the filter and since the UOAs clearly show life left in the oil with no oxidation, there is no sludge nor can there be.

I am running synthetic oil with a synthetic media filter and thus this is all much ado about nothing.
 

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OllieChristopher

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I don't keep my vehicles 300,000 miles nor would want one with 300,000 miles on it. IMO, the vehicle would most likely be a POS by then, regardless of the engine condition.
Not if you take care of it. Only reason I got rid of my Silverado was it was not cost effective anymore. At 305,000 miles it was smart money to trade it for drywall work and get my current rig. Both my mom's Pulsar and her Camry were pushing 400,000 miles before unloading them.

My current off road and hauling rig is a 2005 GMC Sierra and is in outstanding condition. It is only just under 150,000 miles and I figure it's good for at least another 100,000 miles of service.

Both 20+ year old Lexus's are city cars and only pushing 130,000 miles. I see no reason to get rid of what you have if it runs good and functions as needed.
 

OllieChristopher

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Changing them more often so you don't have a sludge up engine. I've seen countless vehicles in service getting the engine replaced because people went 10k average for oil changes. The oil is the life blood of the vehicle. Why wouldn't you change it more often to ensure it is nice and clean? I don't care what the rating is. Doing that gives that one little piece of dirt/trash a better chance of plugging up one your oiling holes in the block and starving a section of your engine.
John there is not much you can say to convince these guys. I'm willing to bet they are not keeping these vehicles long enough to see the detrimental effects of poor maintenance. I'm in 100% agreement with you. All it takes is one small piece of debris or dirt to work it's way into an oil gallery and plug it or a spinning bearing to grind up dirt and fail.
 
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CarbonSteel

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John there is not much you can say to convince these guys. I'm willing to bet they are not keeping these vehicles long enough to see the detrimental effects of poor maintenance. I'm in 100% agreement with you. All it takes is one small piece of debris or dirt to work it's way into an oil gallery and plug it or a spinning bearing to grind up dirt and fail.
Again, the OIL is being changed at 5K miles which based upon what I read here, I am changing my oil more often than the vast majority of you (my average is 4K since I have performed 11 OCs in 40K miles). It is only the filter that is being used for 20K miles in accordance with FRAM's design.

There are SO many assumptions being made with no facts/data to back it up (unless you count the anecdotal information from 30 years ago on Jim Bob's car that threw a rod while running oil that would not used in a lawn mower today). The facts are synthetic media filters INFINITELY better for a longer period of time versus cellulose and there is far more of chance for a cellulose filter to fail (Mopar) within a normal OCI versus me running the FRAM for its designed change interval.

I have UOA'ed EVERY fluid change (engine, transfer case, and axles) since I bought it so I KNOW what is happening with the oil and am using data (not emotion) to drive my decisions. While I get that running a filter this long is not for everyone, to assume that I am running into the sunset screaming "Yee Haw" while running this filter for 20K is far-fetched.

I posted this not to say "Wow...look at what I am doing", but to show what is possible with the oil and filters of today and NOT to convince anyone to follow in my footsteps NOR did I recommend that anyone do so.

With that said, based upon the responses, I assume that despite the advances in oil chemistry and filters, we should just all return to a 3K OCI and call it a day. But then again even FCA has moved into the 2020's--I just bought a new 2021 Grand Cherokee L with a 3.6L and the dealer said, "See you in 10K miles or 1 year for your first oil change".

Nothing to see here...carry on.
 

OllieChristopher

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I have UOA'ed EVERY fluid change (engine, transfer case, and axles) since I bought it so I KNOW what is happening with the oil and am using data (not emotion) to drive my decisions.
The whole premise of your comments read like emotion. It is almost as you are having oil analyses done to prove a point. In which case they are pointless. I would say you are much better served to use that money and service your vehicles using a practical common sense approach.

Oil analyses data is not the end all be all of maintaining a vehicle for long service. You might want to consider the audience you are addressing. Some of us have many years of practical experience with repairing, tearing down and rebuilding engines.

Tribology has advanced quite a bit over the years. OTOH, modern internal combustion engines have became more susceptible to failures from lack of maintenance.

Any way you want to twist it to your "data", leaving any oil filter in a modern vehicle for 20K is just begging for trouble.

Running the filter that long reminded me of that thread where the guy broke off the tip of the filter in the engine. Plastics lose their solvents with age and temperature. Might increase the likelyhood of something similar to that tip breaking on a filter.
Heat cycles are a big deal as these engines run very hot to meet emissions. Of course data from a OA will not show this. Again this just comes from experience. Unfortunately a lot of consumers get caught up in the marketing campaign and will believe anything printed on a box.

As all my posts have stated I'm not here to argue and I can care less what the OP does to his own engine. I am merely pointing out what works for me and my experience over the years.
 

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Why though?

- Oil filter on the top of the motor
- Super simple to measure out the right quantity of oil, just dump the whole thing in.
- Already tall enough to slide under without jacks
- Get a Fumoto oil drain valve and the hose to drain directly into your empty jug and the oil change is tool less save for the socket to take the oil filter off.

I just don't see the advantage here, if it was a real pain in the ass to change I could make the argument to stretch the interval, but it's literally the easiest oil change I've ever done.

To each their own I suppose. If it works for ya then keep it up, I respect UOA for health check up's from time to time. I just like the peace of mind that comes from more frequent intervals.
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