Differential oil change

[quick66]

I’m still wondering if anyone knows whether loctite is required for the diff cover bolts? This picture I came across for an aftermarket Dana diff cover suggests that is the case. As mentioned earlier in this thread the factory bolts on mine appeared to have red loctite on them when I removed them while servicing the diff yesterday.

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[CarbonSteel]

I’m still wondering if anyone knows whether loctite is required for the diff cover bolts? This picture I came across for an aftermarket Dana diff cover suggests that is the case. As mentioned earlier in this thread the factory bolts on mine appeared to have red loctite on them when I removed them while servicing the diff yesterday.

I would not use loctite on those bolts and definitely not red. Torqued properly, they will not loosen as there is zero rotational stress on them. I have had my covers off more than most (10+ times) and never had an issue with loose bolts or in any of the axles I have owned.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

I’m still wondering if anyone knows whether loctite is required for the diff cover bolts? This picture I came across for an aftermarket Dana diff cover suggests that is the case. As mentioned earlier in this thread the factory bolts on mine appeared to have red loctite on them when I removed them while servicing the diff yesterday.

The factory bolts all have red loctite when I unscrewed them. I applied blue loctite on the new bolts and torqued to 25 foot pound.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

On that same page they say this:

"Well the general rule of thumb is to fill your diff up until the fluid starts to run out the fill hole."

and this:

"With the after market covers we make you may find that they hold slightly more than the factory specs listed below."

Hence the reason I fill it to the bottom of the fill hole. Nothing is going to happen by doing that.

That’s why my thought too. When I filled 2 qt in rear it still much lower than the refill port. That why I started pumping some out to be used for front. I only bought 3 qt. They sure can make it easier by testing the actual capacity before deciding on the refill port location.

 

[CarbonSteel]

That’s why my thought too. When I filled 2 qt in rear it still much lower than the refill port. That why I started pumping some out to be used for front. I only bought 3 qt. They sure can make it easier by testing the actual capacity before deciding on the refill port location.

Just me, but I would buy another quart and fill both to the bottom of the fill hole. Three quarts will definitely fill the OEM covers, my Motobilts took close to 4.

 

[Jtclayton612]

That’s a bummer. I thought about this more last night. I’ll have to pull the cover each time I need to service the diff as there appear to be no after market covers with drain plugs. That makes sense because you would never be able to get the drain plug low enough on the cover to drain all the old fluid. These is my first Jeep and first time working on mopar diffs. I’ve worked on 12 bolt Chevrolet diffs a lot and they always had a drain plug built into the center section.

Yeah, I think I’d prefer no drain hole I’d hate to hit a rock and deform the plug somehow tbh. Granted my rear is on the housing rather than the cover, and I was too lazy yesterday to take the cover off to make sure I got everything little thing out. The front is directly on the bottom however of my m186 axle.

I will be buying an aftermarket transmission pan with a drain hole though lol. That’s a pain to take on and off.

 

[Heimkehr]

Think the disappearance of the drain plugs happened in 2021 or most of the way through 2020 iirc.

My 2021 has drain plugs on the front and the rear differentials.

This subject has been discussed in multiple threads.

 

[quick66]

I would not use loctite on those bolts and definitely not red. Torqued properly, they will not loosen as there is zero rotational stress on them. I have had my covers off more than most (10+ times) and never had an issue with loose bolts or in any of the axles I have owned.

I’m with you. I’ve had covers on and off vehicles from 1st gen Camaros to 2500 series pickups and I’ve never used thread locker and never had an issue. I was just surprised that it was applied at the factory.

 

[SloCal]

Sorry for resurrecting a dead post but I just wanted to thank you for adding this. I was going to run 75-140 regardless but seeing this eases my mind a bit more simply knowing that Stellantis won’t try to back out of warranty support, especially considering the amount of metal during break in these axles apparently exhibit as well as the known locker sensor issue.

I originally jumped on the forum thinking I was being so proactive for wanting to change diff fluid at 5k only to learn that I should anyhow b/c of excessive break in or casting materials and a known locker sensor issue. Know, at 1,800 miles I feel like I’m behind the curve. ?

 

[Jhawth]

I admit I haven't read this whole thread so please don't hang me up for asking this question. I've seen 75w-90 used in both front and rear diffs, and read on here of people using 75w-140 in both front and rear diffs.

Owners manual calls out 75w85 for front diff, and either 75w85 for M220 rear (sales code DRE/DRF) and 75w140 for M200 rear diff (sales code DRZ). My monroney sticker doesn't list a sales code for the Axles, just says I have the Tru-Lok axles. My build sheet doesn't list a sales code either.

Seems like people are using the 75w140 for front and rear rubicon diffs? if so, why the 75w140 in the front diff?

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Sorry for resurrecting a dead post but I just wanted to thank you for adding this. I was going to run 75-140 regardless but seeing this eases my mind a bit more simply knowing that Stellantis won’t try to back out of warranty support, especially considering the amount of metal during break in these axles apparently exhibit as well as the known locker sensor issue.

I originally jumped on the forum thinking I was being so proactive for wanting to change diff fluid at 5k only to learn that I should anyhow b/c of excessive break in or casting materials and a known locker sensor issue. Know, at 1,800 miles I feel like I’m behind the curve. ?

@SloCal
@Jhawth

Over the last so many months .... and with new data, etc. presented by diff manufacturer's in mind, I am running 75-140 in both front and rear regardless of whether the JL has the tow package or not.
I used to run 75/90 in the front or a mix of 75/90 and 75-140 in the front.

I buy this. Additive is in this product already, so no additional additive needs to be added.. Flexfill bags are terrific to use and Valvoline is known to be a very good product.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KB5LTJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[CarbonSteel]

I admit I haven't read this whole thread so please don't hang me up for asking this question. I've seen 75w-90 used in both front and rear diffs, and read on here of people using 75w-140 in both front and rear diffs.

Owners manual calls out 75w85 for front diff, and either 75w85 for M220 rear (sales code DRE/DRF) and 75w140 for M200 rear diff (sales code DRZ). My monroney sticker doesn't list a sales code for the Axles, just says I have the Tru-Lok axles. My build sheet doesn't list a sales code either.

Seems like people are using the 75w140 for front and rear rubicon diffs? if so, why the 75w140 in the front diff?

Dana Spicer recommends 75W-140 in both axles. The only reason that FCA deviated from that recommendation is due to CAFE where they are attempting to squeeze out the maximum amount of miles per gallon in order to meet CAFE regulations.

CAFE regulations and equipment longevity do not go hand in hand.

I would (and do) run 75W-140 in the rear and 75W-110 in the front. When I run out of 75W-110, I will be running 75W-140 in both.

Your right foot or a headwind will have more impact on miles per gallon than oil viscosity in the axle ever will.

EDIT:

You also have to consider that FCA reduced the oil capacity (in the rear axle) from that of the JK series D44 and the D44 Advanteks run much hotter (even unloaded) than previous generations.

Last, but not least, FCA recently removed the drain plugs from most if not all models. While I would love to think they did that from a off-road perspective (e.g. one less thing for a rock to hit), I would opine they did it to push the Jeep even further into a "no-maintenance" scenario.

 

[grimmjeeper]

It's too easy to damage the drain plug off road.

It's also cheaper to not put a drain plug in the housing.

People have been popping diff covers to drain axles for generations. Removing the drain plug doesn't imply a "lifetime fill" intention by Stellantis.

 

[CarbonSteel]

It's too easy to damage the drain plug off road.

It's also cheaper to not put a drain plug in the housing.

People have been popping diff covers to drain axles for generations. Removing the drain plug doesn't imply a "lifetime fill" intention by Stellantis.

Understood and not disagreeing, but I also do not think they removed to prevent offroad damage. If anything, to your second point it is about cutting costs while charging the same or more.

 

[grimmjeeper]

Understood and not disagreeing, but I also do not think they removed to prevent offroad damage. If anything, to your second point it is about cutting costs while charging the same or more.

That's my guess as well. Though customer complaints about damage may have contributed.

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