AUX battery delete/bypass - Which method is proper?

[AndySpill]

Rest IBS. Same result. Still have warning light and message in cluster. New H7 battery it is I suppose.

I might at this point acquire a load tester https://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html and attach it to the main battery to see its load.****

I might also acquire a multimeter https://www.harborfreight.com/elect...ters/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html and perform a continuity test with it against the high amp fuses.

Information on the high amp fuses location can be found here:



While I forget on this particular multimeter how to do a continuity test it involves setting the dial on front to a particular setting and putting the positive and negative cables in the right holes in the meter. Then the black cable touches the ground, like the main battery's negative post, and the positive the fuse in question to see if current will or won't run through the fuse.

If current won't run through the fuse it is, along with the entire high amp fuse array, shot, and in need of replacement. Rhinebeck, I read, says there are two different high amp arrays depending on which alternator you have, but a broken fuse array, per the video, does not require a new, and far more expensive Power Distribution Center (PDC).

A completely working fuse array is a necessary if not sufficient condition for things to work, not the least of which a properly functioning alternator being able to charge a properly functioning battery.

****Dual AGM battery operators must first disconnect the ESS/Aux battery from the main to test either battery. Matt, I believe has already effected this disconnection. To not first effect this detection generates a meaningless composite reading of both batteries together, that may fail to recognize or isolate issues with either.

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[AndySpill]

@AndySpill now can you explain, in your most basic terms, what I do with the cables if I decide to remove the entire Aux battery (which I may also do). 2023 JL Diesel, so not worried about 2018 model issues. Thanks.

@andy29847 was nice enough to include Jerry's diagram above here https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ss-which-method-is-proper.123845/post-2589068

On it you can see that the other end of the cable on the positive terminal of the ESS/Aux battery is connected to post N1 of the high amp fuses in the PDC.

You can also see that the other end of the negative terminal was once connected to the negative terminal of the main battery, but is now likely dangling because you already yanked this end.

Now that I've identified the two cables I would suggest, if you are going to yank the ESS/Aux battery, that you either insulate the ends of these cables at the ESS/Aux battery end and leave them in place, or remove, keep, and label them on where they go at each end such that they conscientiously make their way to the next owner of your JL if any, that is of course...

...when you upgrade to an even better JL.

 

[Jebiruph]

I actually did not ave a failure to start on the first try after pulling the fuse and removing the ground. I will try resetting the IBS and report back.

I was referring to your issue with the restart from an auto stop, I miss read it as a failure to restart. It looks like you're already planning to replace the main battery now.

 

[THAW]

@AndySpill now can you explain, in your most basic terms, what I do with the cables if I decide to remove the entire Aux battery

The least complex method is to insulate (i.e. cover metal thoroughly with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing) the terminal connectors you remove from both aux battery posts.

It's best to secure the cables against vibration/chafing.

With the aux battery removed, the aux battery ground wire does not have to be disconnected from the main battery negative post.

 

[PrimeTime4370]

Installed new H7 battery and.... no more warnings or lights.
Thank you to all who replied. I will report back if anything changes.

 

[bobholthaus]

@andy29847 was nice enough to include Jerry's diagram above here https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ss-which-method-is-proper.123845/post-2589068

On it you can see that the other end of the cable on the positive terminal of the ESS/Aux battery is connected to post N1 of the high amp fuses in the PDC.

You can also see that the other end of the negative terminal was once connected to the negative terminal of the main battery, but is now likely dangling because you already yanked this end.

Now that I've identified the two cables I would suggest, if you are going to yank the ESS/Aux battery, that you either insulate the ends of these cables at the ESS/Aux battery end and leave them in place, or remove, keep, and label them on where they go at each end such that they conscientiously make their way to the next owner of your JL if any, that is of course...

...when you upgrade to an even better JL.

Thank you for this. Again, I appreciate the hard work and knowledge of each of you that contributes to this forum.

I’m not sure how I can top an AEV JL370 Diesel Rubi, but I AM pretty certain that after owning an eco-diesel GC since 2014 (that I bought new), that when my 8 yr 125k mile warranty expires, I’ll be ready to pass this one on! I love everything about this diesel… except my 9 year experience of maintaining one! ??‍??‍

 

[AndySpill]

Thank you for this. Again, I appreciate the hard work and knowledge of each of you that contributes to this forum.

I’m not sure how I can top an AEV JL370 Diesel Rubi, but I AM pretty certain that after owning an eco-diesel GC since 2014 (that I bought new), that when my 8 yr 125k mile warranty expires, I’ll be ready to pass this one on! I love everything about this diesel… except my 9 year experience of maintaining one! ??‍??‍

Bob :

I neglected to discuss the cable between N3, the Power Control Relay and the positive terminal of the ESS/Aux battery. I admit to not having ever looked at this but that too seems unnecessary given the PCR isn't going to get energized as long qs Fuse 42 is pulled.

I don't know, given how that cable passes through the PCR, if its removal is as clean as that of the other 2 cables.

I really think though leaving the cables as is is best. You just never know if you need to reverse this and whenever you go moving battery cables, touch an end to the wrong place and you risk blowing a high amp fuse.

 

[Wraif]

Where is the IBS ? Any chance you can show a picture of it ? I’m terrible at electrical work. But need to get rid of my aux battery and replace my factory original main in my 19 Rubicon.

Unplug the Intelligent battery sensor (IBS - not really intelligent) that goes between the battery cables and the negative post on the main battery. Leave it unplugged for 30 seconds. This resets the IBS.
[/QUOTE

 

[andy29847]

Where is the IBS ? Any chance you can show a picture of it ? I’m terrible at electrical work. But need to get rid of my aux battery and replace my factory original main in my 19 Rubicon.

I go this photo from the internet. I htink it came form htis forum. It looks like one of Jerry's drawings.

The IBS is on the negative post of the main battery. The negative cable hook to the IBS. The IBS clamps on the battery post.

 

[JLfromCA]

How do you reset the IBS ?

 

[Wraif]

I go this photo from the internet. I htink it came form htis forum. It looks like one of Jerry's drawings.

The IBS is on the negative post of the main battery. The negative cable hook to the IBS. The IBS clamps on the battery post.

I screenshot that so I don’t lose it. Thanks for the fast response. I think I gotta do this this weekend. Who knows, this time next week I may just be driving my daughters JKU. lol

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

Where is the IBS ? Any chance you can show a picture of it ? I’m terrible at electrical work. But need to get rid of my aux battery and replace my factory original main in my 19 Rubicon.

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

How do you reset the IBS ?

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/ibs-reset-and-charging-batteries.67052/post-1100851

 

[bobholthaus]

Bob :

I neglected to discuss the cable between N3, the Power Control Relay and the positive terminal of the ESS/Aux battery. I admit to not having ever looked at this but that too seems unnecessary given the PCR isn't going to get energized as long qs Fuse 42 is pulled.

I don't know, given how that cable passes through the PCR, if its removal is as clean as that of the other 2 cables.

I really think though leaving the cables as is is best. You just never know if you need to reverse this and whenever you go moving battery cables, touch an end to the wrong place and you risk blowing a high amp fuse.

Andy: I agree with you. I think that if I remove the battery, I will simple leave the wiring in place and pull the fuse. So that I am 100% clear, I literally just pull the battery and pull the fuse and I'm good? I thought I saw that maybe the positive terminal from the Aux battery has to be secured to the positive terminal of the main battery (althought with the way the power gets "routed" to the main battery, for instance, now, while my Aux battery appears to be dead, I'm guessing I don't have to re-route it). Thanks!

 

[bobholthaus]

I might at this point acquire a load tester https://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html and attach it to the main battery to see its load.****

I might also acquire a multimeter https://www.harborfreight.com/elect...ters/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html and perform a continuity test with it against the high amp fuses.

Information on the high amp fuses location can be found here:



While I forget on this particular multimeter how to do a continuity test it involves setting the dial on front to a particular setting and putting the positive and negative cables in the right holes in the meter. Then the black cable touches the ground, like the main battery's negative post, and the positive the fuse in question to see if current will or won't run through the fuse.

If current won't run through the fuse it is, along with the entire high amp fuse array, shot, and in need of replacement. Rhinebeck, I read, says there are two different high amp arrays depending on which alternator you have, but a broken fuse array, per the video, does not require a new, and far more expensive Power Distribution Center (PDC).

A completely working fuse array is a necessary if not sufficient condition for things to work, not the least of which a properly functioning alternator being able to charge a properly functioning battery.

****Dual AGM battery operators must first disconnect the ESS/Aux battery from the main to test either battery. Matt, I believe has already effected this disconnection. To not first effect this detection generates a meaningless composite reading of both batteries together, that may fail to recognize or isolate issues with either.

Guys: Can someone tell me how to "simply" test if N3 is blown? If I take that fuse "array" out (per this video), will it be clear where I can run 12v on one side, and see if it flows through the fuse? I'm not sure why I care at this point, with plans for the battery delete, but I guess I like things to be as "correct" as possible, so I'd like to replace that fuse array if N3 is blown, even if I am not the one to use it currently (same reason ANDYSPILL is recommending I leave all wiring in place, even if I pull the aux battery. Courtesy to the next owner, even if that's years from now!)

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