Alignment question for the educated

[Roky]

... or ideally, they'd just have Dana set the knuckle yokes to ~6 degrees instead of 4.8, so that the pinion angle isn't compromised by rotating the entire housing the wrong way, especially for a lifted jeep.

BTW, I had my JLUR checked the second day I owned it. The caster was right on spec, 4.8, which is common for both solid axle and IFS vehicles (trucks and cars).

Yeah ….. in spec is a misleading phrase when it comes to the JL. That’s how the Mopar lift gets away with not including the extra parts it takes to make it drive sweet when you end up over 3 “ of lift out of their “ 2 “ inch lift. Within spec does not mean “drives great”………

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[roaniecowpony]

Yeah ….. in spec is a misleading phrase when it comes to the JL. That’s how the Mopar lift gets away with not including the extra parts it takes to make it drive sweet when you end up over 3 “ of lift out of their “ 2 “ inch lift. Within spec does not mean “drives great”………

I agree, drives great is nothing to do with spec. But, I've not really wanted more caster than what spec is. Would it be more pleasing at hwy speed? ... maybe a bit. But tight steering is more important to me. My IFS crewcab has 4.8 and a friend's last few SuperDuty crews that tow 35ft horse trailers has 4.8. they drive like they're on rails. But yes, I think 6 or even 7 is a help on the short 2 door Jeeps, especially the old CJ, TJ, etc.. On the 4 door JLU, I think 4.8-5.0 is good, 6 would slow the center steering down a bit for high speed. That wouldn't hurt anything. GM used to use a variable rate box to do this. My brother has a couple CJs that he has set near 7 if I recall. He swears by it. I understand it. Just don't think I need it for my JLUR daily.

 

[Roky]

I agree, drives great is nothing to do with spec. But, I've not really wanted more caster than what spec is. Would it be more pleasing at hwy speed? ... maybe a bit. But tight steering is more important to me. My IFS crewcab has 4.8 and a friend's last few SuperDuty crews that tow 35ft horse trailers has 4.8. they drive like they're on rails. But yes, I think 6 or even 7 is a help on the short 2 door Jeeps, especially the old CJ, TJ, etc.. On the 4 door JLU, I think 4.8-5.0 is good, 6 would slow the center steering down a bit for high speed. That wouldn't hurt anything. GM used to use a variable rate box to do this. My brother has a couple CJs that he has set near 7 if I recall. He swears by it. I understand it. Just don't think I need it for my JLUR daily.

Yeah, especially on stock height Rubi. Most are putting the Mopar arms on their stock Rubis and are loving it. The higher caster is definitely more of a factor on lifted rigs.

But it’s pretty subjective, everyone has their preference. I’m glad to hear that your rig is driving sweet, I love hearing that. Seems we hear the opposite all to often, lol.

I’m on a 3.5” lift and 37s , I was running 6.2 and 6.4, that was my sweet spot. Since I put my long arm kit on, I’m at 5.8 5.9 for the same sweet spot. My rig drove great before, but what a difference the long arms makes on and off road, just amazing.

 

[Old Dogger]

O.K. Only the toe-in and steering wheel centering is adjustable. Solid axle, camber is fixed, unless adjustable ball joints are installed. So a lack of Caster is the issue much of the time. 4.5 to as high as 5.0 maybe needed, to offset the pull, because of the crown of the road. The concern is to much caster, can change the driveline angle and cause a vibration. So it is sometimes a catch twenty two. It would be nice..IMO..If the factory would install adjustable lower control arms. I think that this would be the solution, to much of these issues.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Yeah, especially on stock height Rubi. Most are putting the Mopar arms on their stock Rubis and are loving it. The higher caster is definitely more of a factor on lifted rigs.

But it’s pretty subjective, everyone has their preference. I’m glad to hear that your rig is driving sweet, I love hearing that. Seems we hear the opposite all to often, lol.

I’m on a 3.5” lift and 37s , I was running 6.2 and 6.4, that was my sweet spot. Since I put my long arm kit on, I’m at 5.8 5.9 for the same sweet spot. My rig drove great before, but what a difference the long arms makes on and off road, just amazing.

That's pretty cool. I've given some thought to a lift and 35s, but it wouldn't be because I need it. More of a want. But then, the wife would grumble everytime she had to step up in it. LOL.

My JL is driving pretty well. But I wanted to get the TSB iron steering box on it, since I have a 2018 with a Mk 1 steering box. I did crank on it a bit and it did tighten it. The dealer asked that I remove the Synergy trackbar brace and either put a stock trackbar on it or just find a core. A member here helped out and gave me his 2020 trackbar. I put it on this morning and loosened the steering box adjustment back to the original position. It drove ok, but I could feel the looseness a bit. Dealer has it for the TSB now.

 

[Roky]

That's pretty cool. I've given some thought to a lift and 35s, but it wouldn't be because I need it. More of a want. But then, the wife would grumble everytime she had to step up in it. LOL.

My JL is driving pretty well. But I wanted to get the TSB iron steering box on it, since I have a 2018 with a Mk 1 steering box. I did crank on it a bit and it did tighten it. The dealer asked that I remove the Synergy trackbar brace and either put a stock trackbar on it or just find a core. A member here helped out and gave me his 2020 trackbar. I put it on this morning and loosened the steering box adjustment back to the original position. It drove ok, but I could feel the looseness a bit. Dealer has it for the TSB now.

Yeah… I’m 2018, September build. Still have aluminum box. I guess I’m one of the lucky ones, just a 1/4” play in steering wheel. Afraid of messing it up, kept me from pulling the trigger on steel box, now I’m out of warranty so if mine decides to go, I’ll have to get it done on my own dime. Oh well , it’s only money, right, lol.

Best of luck to you at the dealer……

Sorry OP, seems we’ve derailed a bit, lol.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Yeah… I’m 2018, September build. Still have aluminum box. I guess I’m one of the lucky ones, just a 1/4” play in steering wheel. Afraid of messing it up, kept me from pulling the trigger on steel box, now I’m out of warranty so if mine decides to go, I’ll have to get it done on my own dime. Oh well , it’s only money, right, lol.

Best of luck to you at the dealer……

Sorry OP, seems we’ve derailed a bit, lol.

The good part about all the steering issues is that Jeep dropped the price of steering boxes from around $900 to about $300-400. With discounts, you can find them below $300. This seems to be a strategy that they have on all the "problem" components. Probably trying to keep from pissing off customers any more than they already are.

 

[Dyolfknip74]

Yeah… I’m 2018, September build. Still have aluminum box. I guess I’m one of the lucky ones, just a 1/4” play in steering wheel. Afraid of messing it up, kept me from pulling the trigger on steel box, now I’m out of warranty so if mine decides to go, I’ll have to get it done on my own dime. Oh well , it’s only money, right, lol.

Best of luck to you at the dealer……

Sorry OP, seems we’ve derailed a bit, lol.

At that point, hydro is really the only option.

 

[Roky]

At that point, hydro is really the only option.

I always weigh all my options…….?

 

[Dyolfknip74]

I always weigh all my options…….?

I won't be going that route but I definitely looked it upmafter my comment. PSC used to be the "one" but reviews of customer service are terrible.
RedNeck Ram seems to be a better solution although it involves reusing your steering box and modifying.
Notwithstanding, reasonably big job in either direction.

 

[Roky]

I won't be going that route but I definitely looked it upmafter my comment. PSC used to be the "one" but reviews of customer service are terrible.
RedNeck Ram seems to be a better solution although it involves reusing your steering box and modifying.
Notwithstanding, reasonably big job in either direction.

Yeah, copy that, I don’t mind the work though…….

 

[Dyolfknip74]

Yeah, copy that, I don’t mind the work though…….

Lol, I gathered. Speaking of which, JK Fox ATS in bound, may reach out whilst freezing my ass off installing if I run into anything major (although not sure what for an SS install, lol)

 

[Roky]

Lol, I gathered. Speaking of which, JK Fox ATS in bound, may reach out whilst freezing my ass off installing if I run into anything major (although not sure what for an SS install, lol)

No worries…… ?

 

[roaniecowpony]

Even if I had to pay for the iron steering box, I was willing to do it. Online it's pretty cheap. Way cheaper than aftermarket. It is hydraulic. I suppose a pump conversion to engine driven instead of electric motor driven hydraulic pump is possible with the factory box. In the case of the JL, the pump is actually electro-mechanical. You get the good and bad of both technologies.

Here's the current iron steering box. $250 online is cheap IMO. I'd do that before getting a $2k PSC aftermarket system, for my uses anyway.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I won't be going that route but I definitely looked it upmafter my comment. PSC used to be the "one" but reviews of customer service are terrible.
RedNeck Ram seems to be a better solution although it involves reusing your steering box and modifying.
Notwithstanding, reasonably big job in either direction.

Be careful in choosing a company for critical components for your jeep. That company is based in an old tire shop and what looks like an old Dairy Queen. I'm guessing there's not an engineer in miles of that place, let alone any failure effects analysis or product liability coverage. You and your family's safety depends on these choices.

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