scorpionsix
Well-Known Member
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- #16
I'm seeing about 1/64" in there : ) Close enough I guess.0 tolerance……….kidding…
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whatever you can live with…..
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I'm seeing about 1/64" in there : ) Close enough I guess.0 tolerance……….kidding…
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whatever you can live with…..
OCD is real…🫤I'm seeing about 1/64" in there : ) Close enough I guess.
of course we don't know how accurate the coil perches areI'm seeing about 1/64" in there : ) Close enough I guess.
Ahh hell, my wife would agree with you.OCD is real…🫤
as does Quadratec.So after getting home and looking under my JLUR, it's not the same as the JL in the TeraFlex video. I have a suspension component blocking straight on access to the mounting bolt on the passenger side. I'll have to crawl all the way under to see if a wrench will be able to slide up from the underside to get to it. Driver's side is wide open and free of any obstructions.well... you're f'd now. Why did you go and tempt fate like that?![]()
turn your steering wheel one way or another and check access and also if you jack up the frame on the passenger side it will open things up too. you want to use a socket and bigger ratchet to remove the bolt and then use a torq wrench to install. i have done a bunch and it is very doable. might need an extension on your socket. you can also use a jackstand ie jack your axle up and slide a jackstand under the frame at the front wheel opening and then lower the axle..So after getting home and looking under my JLUR, it's not the same as the JL in the TeraFlex video. I have a suspension component blocking straight on access to the mounting bolt on the passenger side. I'll have to crawl all the way under to see if a wrench will be able to slide up from the underside to get to it. Driver's side is wide open and free of any obstructions.
Thanks for that insight. After thinking about your technique for a minute, I guess all that matters is to get the bolt out then back in. The adjustments will be made after the fact and with the vehicle back to full weight on the wheels.turn your steering wheel one way or another and check access and also if you jack up the frame on the passenger side it will open things up too. you want to use a socket and bigger ratchet to remove the bolt and then use a torq wrench to install. i have done a bunch and it is very doable. might need an extension on your socket. you can also use a jackstand ie jack your axle up and slide a jackstand under the frame at the front wheel opening and then lower the axle..
yesThanks for that insight. After thinking about your technique for a minute, I guess all that matters is to get the bolt out then back in. The adjustments will be made after the fact and with the vehicle back to full weight on the wheels.
Yeah, I used your 4' level technique and a ratchet strap to get the rear axle centered and holding. I screwed out the adjustable RK track bar and dropped it in. Took off the strap, drove the Jeep around and re-measured. Spot on! Then I did the same to the front but didn't need the ratchet strap. Easy Peasy.i used a 4' level/ruler vertically against each tire and measure to the fender. of course, my well used/chunking 37s may not have the best sidewalls to measure against lol. from what i read, 1/8 to 1/4" is good. get it to that point and then drive it and see how it is. many people have it far worse than that and still drive around with it lol.
$400 is high but sounds like 2 hours of shop time. if it goes 5 minutes over an hour, they'll charge 2.
with that $400, you can buy some really good tools for your toolbox.
i used this: (was just on sale for just over $100)
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in...ZmMEfigm2A8zvlVaGsLjuLBSp8ghrxLxoCCPUQAvD_BwE
and a pair of 21mm(?) wrenches, one regular open end, one ratcheting. and a 21mm socket if you dont have one (i think that's the size, whatever size it is lol). you'll have $250 left in your wallet and some good tools for working on your jeep. you will also need a large adjustable wrench for the jam nut (if it has one). i used a large crescent wrench, i put red loctite on the threads, and tighten it with my foot/leg to as tight as i could push it. i put a paint mark on the parts to see if they move at all.
you dont have to spend $350 on a track bar. you can get a good one from rancho/etc for like $200 iirc. a lot of people on here really like the steer smarts bar which is closer to $300. you can also often grab one used for 50% of the new cost.
some, certain track bars can have fitment issues. like metal cloak needs some grinding to fit on the axle side. the steer smarts is super thick and can have clearance issues with other aftermarket parts in the future (potentially). a basic $200 adjustable track bar will drop right in with no issues and be plenty for your average jeeper. if you plan to run 37s and rock crawl etc, then you'd want something beefy ($). for street to mild/medium offroading, they'll all work fine. if you do live where rust is a concern, then components can be something to look at and pay extra for. i went with MC because i plan to go with their system (piece by piece plan lol). some people refuse to to run their TB because they dont want to deal with the grinding part and some people say they are not strong enough, though i think that's more of an issue for people running heavy wheels/tires/components and do aggressive offroading. i know plenty of people here run $200 TB with no issues.
the Yeti gets praise for being very user friendly to install. you dont have to take it off to make any adjustments, which is nice. this was 2nd on my radar after MC.
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...vfDwJWQyWzKR-doTqNe0FBAglQ5P_jFRoCWWQQAvD_BwE
JKS and ARB are well respected brands that have $200 track bars. heck, Rock Krawler is considered one of the best and theirs is only $250. and dont forget, Northridge gives forum discountas does Quadratec.