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60,000mi Spark Plug Change

jjvincent

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An update, I just did the spark plugs on a 2012 Jeep and they were the original ones. It had 152K on the clock and it developed a misfire code.
 

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Anyone have the spark plug torque spec handy or know where to find it for the 2.0? I don’t have the FSM.
 
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Avar928

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Anyone have the spark plug torque spec handy or know where to find it for the 2.0? I don’t have the FSM.
There's this: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/torque-values-for-jeep-jl-wrangler.17791/#post-518090

Denotes 13in/ft but I generally go a smidge past finger tight or until the socket wrench stops then a slight tap past. Not very tight at all. I change all 8 plugs on my 5L V8 Porsche, same thing. Better for it to be snug than accidentally stripping threads on the head.
 

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There's this: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/torque-values-for-jeep-jl-wrangler.17791/#post-518090

Denotes 13in/ft but I generally go a smidge past finger tight or until the socket wrench stops then a slight tap past. Not very tight at all. I change all 8 plugs on my 5L V8 Porsche, same thing. Better for it to be snug than accidentally stripping threads on the head.
I didn’t think that thread had engine specs but I should’ve looked. Thanks!

That’s 13 lb ft being in the second set of bars but I need verification which engine they are giving the spec for.
 

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My connector broke. Anyone know what to do? Where I can order a new piece to install. Anything?

image.jpg
 

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I was gonna order plugs on RockAuto with my other stuff, to have onhand, but sheeeet.

When did spark plugs start costing $20 each?

Is there something special about the plugs for the 2.0?
 

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so any of you folks changing plugs taking a look with a bore scope to see if carbon is building up in the combustion chamber, would be interresting to see if that will be an issue due to the DI
 

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When I was growing up, my dad had a Porsche Audi repair shop. So, I worked on tons of 928's when I was a teenager and into my early 20's. Those things were built like a tank. Then there were the failures. The ones with the twin disk clutch (which always went bad back in the day before they updated them). I could change out the complete assembly in 40 minutes. Then people that were not careful with the older ones, would tear out the reverse lockout and bang it into reverse when going out of first. Thus you had to take out that beast of a transmission. Then when they had dual A/C, they leaked freon like crazy. I got good at taking the interior out and crimping on new hoses to the hard lines.

The highest mileage 928 we seen was a 1979 that had 450K on it. we only replaced the head gaskets at 350K. Rest of the engine was original. Back then the rear muffler was $1500 (this would be in 1985 dollars). So I remember cutting it off and sticking on a piece of 3" pipe instead. The owner liked the sound and thus it was that way until it met it's maker when it was in a flood. Thus, totaled and done for.

I will tell you this, when new, people that were Corvette owners, were the ones that bought 928's. It was leaps and bounds beyond what a Corvette was at the time and they wanted a V8.

I always wanted a 928 but I have decided that it'll be an e92M3 instead. It reminds me of a 928, but newer.
I just have to post this... I had a new 1983 Porsche 944... I serviced the baby myself. I had 550,000 miles on her before she went to the Porsche junk yard.. She was a great car, ran forever.... almost. I think it was 30 years.

Original engine and transmission. The clutch was replaced once at 90k miles, but then lasted the remaining 450,000 miles. Proving if a Porsche (maybe any car) is driven correctly, a clutch can last the life of a car. Also, original brake calipers, original fuel injection parts. Cheapest regular gas I could find.
 

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I just have to post this... I had a new 1983 Porsche 944... I serviced the baby myself. I had 550,000 miles on her before she went to the Porsche junk yard.. She was a great car, ran forever.... almost. I think it was 30 years.

Original engine and transmission. The clutch was replaced once at 90k miles, but then lasted the remaining 450,000 miles. Proving if a Porsche (maybe any car) is driven correctly, a clutch can last the life of a car. Also, original brake calipers, original fuel injection parts. Cheapest regular gas I could find.
944's paid for my way through college due to the number of broken timing belts, broken balance shaft belts, leaking front end oil seals, snapped off cams, oil in the coolant and the best, 944 Turbo clutches. When a 944 came in on a hook, you knew it was a broken timing belt.

Watch this. Here's a race we won in 1991. We built this car (and a few others), won the overall championship in 1990 but finally won the 24hrs at the Glen in 1991 with this 944S2 ClubSport (not a factory built car either). You'll see me at the 4:22 mark doing a really slow tire change. As of today, I work on 997 to 992 GT3 Cup and GT3R Porsches.

 

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My friend, George B (you may know him) used to lend me his Porsche timing belt tension measuring tool, so for most of my Porsche life, my belts were right on. One time I lost a 944 engine when the belt was adjusted by feel.
 

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Just replaced the plugs after about 60,500mi and used suggested factory plugs. Changing them out is easy for 1, 3 and 4....just a 10mm bolt for the coil and a 5/8" deep socket with a 6" extension to unseat and then used a telescopic magnet tool to remove. Getting the second cylinder ignition coil (front to back of engine is 1-4?) is a little tight with the diverter valve especially if you have a DV+ installed. Had to remove some of the sensor connectors without breaking the tabs and wiggle it out.

One this that was concerning was after removing each plug there was black soot flakes that came out from the cylinder. See how dark the threads are. The past 15,000mi have been fairly short distance trips (<5mi) of less than 20min back and forth. Camera makes the plug look a little darker than it actually is, slightly more brownish than dark.

If anyone is interested in what 2.0 2018 plugs look like at about 60,000mi which is the change interval per Jeep.

Upgrades:

GFB DV+
Mishimoto IC pipe
Mishimoto CAI

EDIT+

Plugs
NGK IR ILZKR7G
https://www.allmoparparts.com/sku/68292346aa.html

Jeep Wrangler JL 60,000mi Spark Plug Change image


Jeep Wrangler JL 60,000mi Spark Plug Change image

Jeep Wrangler JL 60,000mi Spark Plug Change image
You got some carbon build-up for sure.

If your plugs look like that you valves have carbon and so does the combustion chamber.

3 ways to mitigate:

1) Pull heads and get a valve job and clean the combustion chamber using a solvent (don't to change oil when you are finished.

2). Look for a lonely highway. Come to a full stop then nail the go pedal to the firewall, watch the temp gage and when it begins to rise back on off and most of the carbon should be gone, or you can turn around and repeat.

3). 12 oz can of water, engine FULL operating temps under the hood. with the engine running and someone in the driver's seat revving the engine slowly pour the can of water into the engine.. Looking at your plugs and thinking on the combustion chamber I do it twice. If the engine stalls because you poured to fast don't worry just start and keep going.

I am thinking of looking at the plugs and with 60k You make want to remove the cat if you can. All you need to do is separate the exhaust from the CAT pipe and that is, no need to remove anything, you should have enough play unless your cat is perm connected to the exhaust pipe.

NOTHING will clean out you combustion chamber and valves like it a double dose of ExLax.

How does it work? Thermodynamics.
 

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I just have to post this... I had a new 1983 Porsche 944... I serviced the baby myself. I had 550,000 miles on her before she went to the Porsche junk yard.. She was a great car, ran forever.... almost. I think it was 30 years.

Original engine and transmission. The clutch was replaced once at 90k miles, but then lasted the remaining 450,000 miles. Proving if a Porsche (maybe any car) is driven correctly, a clutch can last the life of a car. Also, original brake calipers, original fuel injection parts. Cheapest regular gas I could find.
I have had a few Porsches in my time. Last one a 944 turbo I kept for 26 years before trading it in on a mb. It had 175 000 miles. Did not want to get rid of it but it out lived the Porsche mechanics at the dealer and they refused to work on it any more. Loved that car and it would go a lot faster than advertised.
 

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I have a bunch of friends all buying range rovers and merc g-class. I tell them they're throwing money away but they don't listen.

One this morning was asking me about a special tool for his catalytic converter.. I don't know!
 

jjvincent

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I have had a few Porsches in my time. Last one a 944 turbo I kept for 26 years before trading it in on a mb. It had 175 000 miles. Did not want to get rid of it but it out lived the Porsche mechanics at the dealer and they refused to work on it any more. Loved that car and it would go a lot faster than advertised.
I used to race a 1986 944T starting in 1987. One of the two Porsche made to meet the $29,500 maximum price for a car to run in SCCA SSGT class. It was delete option along with roll up windows, no sunroof, no AC and no power steering. Plus no undercoat. Back then in Showroom Stock, it was a game of cheating and not get caught.

Since the car was new back then (plus the 80's) you had to be creative. When we cranked up the boost enough, we needed to find another head gasket. Thus the ones that Porsche used on the 944T Trans Am Engine. Plus Porsche gave us the chips for the ECU and boost controller from the Turbo Cup cars. After that, we ended up doing a manual override and thus the wastegate was not doing a thing. Manually jack up the fuel pressure to get enough fuel in it and then fun 105 octane race gas that was oxygenated.

Also (since everything had to be stock) we drilled the shocks, drained the oil, then refilled them with much heavier motorcycle shock oil. Welded over the hole, ground it down and repainted the shocks. We took Ferodo DS11 brake pad material and had a place that could reline brakes, put on that race compound but the backing plate was stock (with the stock part number).

Good times back then......
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