3.6 l Engine Oil Type

[CarbonSteel]

Stay away from small shady brands that are promoted by shady people. Big brands have decades of reputation that they fiercely protect. You will not find crap in a Mobil 1 jug unlike HPL.

You really need to stop making such broad condemning statements with ZERO data to back it up. I have never used HPL and have no intention of doing so, but a company does not stay in business for 10+ years doing what you are stating they do with no proof other than your opinion and a single VOA from an uncertified lab like Blackstone.

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[Nokones]

Also, the videos touched on the use of cheap discounted gasoline used in the car in what happens to the properties of various oils especially the cheaper less quality oils, and the oil and gasoline treatment additives.

 

[DanW]

You really need to stop making such broad condemning statements with ZERO data to back it up. I have never used HPL and have no intention of doing so, but a company does not stay in business for 10+ years doing what you are stating they do with no proof other than your opinion and a single VOA from an uncertified lab like Blackstone.

I'd agree that more samples would be needed, but over the years I've done MANY samples from Blackstone and have never seen an anomaly. Not saying it can't happen. But it's enough that I'd hold off on using HPL until more samples are analyzed.

Of course, I don't need to hold off. Their ridiculous pricing is all that is needed to keep me away.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

You really need to stop making such broad condemning statements with ZERO data to back it up. I have never used HPL and have no intention of doing so, but a company does not stay in business for 10+ years doing what you are stating they do with no proof other than your opinion and a single VOA from an uncertified lab like Blackstone.

First impression is the last impression. I cannot keep spending money on VOAs to make sure that the HPL quart bottle I bought(And they sell cases of 6 only) is not coming with over 20 ppm of Aluminum in it. A case of HPL and a VOA to test that it is not crap, can get me 5 x 5 quart jugs of quality Mobil 1 or Pennzoil.
20 ppm of Aluminum in their oil and their crooked support guy is blaming Blackstone for it How come my VOAs of Pennzoil never have crap in them? Because Pennzoil doesn't make their oil under the shade of a tree, that's why.

 

[CarbonSteel]

First impression is the last impression. I cannot keep spending money on VOAs to make sure that the HPL quart bottle I bought(And they sell cases of 6 only) is not coming with over 20 ppm of Aluminum in it. A case of HPL and a VOA to test that it is not crap, can get me 5 x 5 quart jugs of quality Mobil 1 or Pennzoil.
20 ppm of Aluminum in their oil and their crooked support guy is blaming Blackstone for it How come my VOAs of Pennzoil never have crap in them? Because Pennzoil doesn't make their oil under the shade of a tree, that's why.

You should probably just have someone else maintain your vehicle like the dealer...pretty easy to see why you were voted off the BITOG island...

 

[Jeep Junkie]

You should probably just have someone else maintain your vehicle like the dealer...pretty easy to see why you were voted off the BITOG island...

Of course Mafia don't like anyone trying to expose them
Mobil 1 and Pennzoil are like Best Buy, HPL is like a shady electronics shop in Chinatown

 

[CarbonSteel]

Of course Mafia don't like anyone trying to expose them
Mobil 1 and Pennzoil are like Best Buy, HPL is like a shady electronics shop in Bangladesh.

There is nothing to expose...go take a course in critical thinking. It would help you better substantiate your arguments.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I'd agree that more samples would be needed, but over the years I've done MANY samples from Blackstone and have never seen an anomaly. Not saying it can't happen. But it's enough that I'd hold off on using HPL until more samples are analyzed.

Of course, I don't need to hold off. Their ridiculous pricing is all that is needed to keep me away.

Oh, I have. From 2010 until 2015 (when I switched to Polaris) I used Blackstone for a total of 52 tests for various vehicles and 5 of them had issues--twice they swapped my sample with someone else's, once they spilled the sample, and twice they applied the wrong test. So about at 10% failure rate which is not optimal no matter how it is viewed.

My issues with Blackstone are cost, lack of accreditation, lack of current ASTM test methodologies (last time I checked), and their choice to use a visual flame test for fuel dilution. They want to be a top lab, but they are not and need to regroup. For hobby use, yes, they are fine, but if you are attempting to manage a fleet, they would be my last choice.

With that said, you and both know there are a number of reasons why an oil sample may show 20PPM of aluminum--from the sample actually having 20PPM, to the sample container being contaminated, to improper sample technique, to the lab making a mistake. NONE OF THOSE are supportive and definitive enough to say that HPL is a shoddy company. All companies make mistakes but this rhetoric falls directly in line with what he continuously posts and that is assertions with no supported objective data.

We also both know that BITOG is not 99% troll membership, but we also know there is a VERY low tolerance for the types of uninformed shenanigans that Jeep Junkie continuously shows here so it is little wonder why he thinks he is being trolled on BITOG. I have been there for 15 years and can easily say the membership will try to help, but will guide a newbie towards searching before asking. Post the repetitive bovine scatology that he has posted here on that site and yeah, the piranhas will chew your ass quickly.

 

[Dusty Dude]

Of course Mafia don't like anyone trying to expose them
Mobil 1 and Pennzoil are like Best Buy, HPL is like a shady electronics shop in Chinatown

Best Buy is as shady as they come.

They started out in Minnesota selling refurbished automotive stereo equipment as new. As they expanded they were selling garbage quality, no name electronics at exorbitant prices. For example, Pyramid Electronics that introduced the term “Music Power”, a fictitious wattage number with no basis in fact. They would advertise a stereo that had 200W of music power that had an output transistor rated at 10W peak output. They also heavily pushed an expensive “Monster Cable” that used a big insulation layer to make it bigger around and therefore “better quality”.

I repaired, returned, and/or replaced a lot of their inventory. They haven’t changed over the years either. You couldn’t pay me to go in a Best Buy.

 

[DanW]

Best Buy is as shady as they come.

They started out in Minnesota selling refurbished automotive stereo equipment as new. As they expanded they were selling garbage quality, no name electronics at exorbitant prices. For example, Pyramid Electronics that introduced the term “Music Power”, a fictitious wattage number with no basis in fact. They would advertise a stereo that had 200W of music power that had an output transistor rated at 10W peak output. They also heavily pushed an expensive “Monster Cable” that used a big insulation layer to make it bigger around and therefore “better quality”.

I repaired, returned, and/or replaced a lot of their inventory. They haven’t changed over the years either. You couldn’t pay me to go in a Best Buy.

LOL, it's getting a little wild around here.

I recently had a Pioneer head unit installed in my 07 Vette by Best Buy and they did a beautiful job. But they've also had the same guy running the installation shop for over a decade, so there's that.

Maybe I'm just lucky with stuff. (Knock on wood.)

 

[Dusty Dude]

LOL, it's getting a little wild around here.

I recently had a Pioneer head unit installed in my 07 Vette by Best Buy and they did a beautiful job. But they've also had the same guy running the installation shop for over a decade, so there's that.

Maybe I'm just lucky with stuff. (Knock on wood.)

I’m sure there are a few decent install shops, but from my experience in Minnesota and Chicago, I wouldn’t hold my breath. The best way for you to tell is to check out the wiring. Soldered connections with a heat shrink covering is the best. Crimped connections with a plastic shield is second. A lot of the places twist wires together and then cover with electrical tape(not good). I’ve seen some real hack jobs…

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Mobil 1 EP 5w30
Flash Point 446 (F)
Pour Point -40 (F)
PAO base stock content 5-10%

Mobil 1 EP 0w20
Flash Point 462.5 (F)
Pour Point -65.2 (F)
PAO base stock content 60-70%

So again, at the extremes, the M1 EP 0w20 hands down outperforms the 5w30. That said, I'd still run 5w30 if that's what Stellantis specified. The DI/Turbo engines dilute the oil with fuel. 5w30 handles that better. Every UOA I did on my 3.5 Ecoboost showed the M1 EP 5w30 had sheared down to a 20 weight by the end of the OCI. I mainly ran M1 EP 5w30 in that engine because it just held up to fuel dilution better than others and still had TBN left at 10k miles.

But there is more to it than just pour point and flash point, but they do show the presence of PAO. THere are other factors in manufacturers choosing different weights, too, and yes, fuel economy is a part of it. But racing engines are now running on thin oils, too, because they hold up MUCH better than they used to, thanks to modern chemical engineering. For example, Indycars qualify on straight 0 weight oil. Yes, straight 0 weight! And those engines must last 2k miles. Far longer than the beasts they used to run on 60 weight oil.

Wow, I just checked, PUP 0w20 also has higher flash point than PUP 5w30, 208 degrees vs 203 degrees celcius.
But the sad thing is that Mobil 1 EP 0w20 is no more 60-70% PAO, it is like 30% now. Mobil 1 also uses GTL now

 

[DanW]

Wow, I just checked, PUP 0w20 also has higher flash point than PUP 5w30, 208 degrees vs 203 degrees celcius.
But the sad thing is that Mobil 1 EP 0w20 is no more 60-70% PAO, it is like 30% now. Mobil 1 also uses GTL now

Yep, they changed the formula. But I wouldn't worry about it. I don't believe they've compromised the overall performance of the oil in this application. I haven't done one in awhile, but I will do a UOA at some point on the new formulation. And 30% is still more than anyone else outside of boutique oils, such as Amsoil or Red Line. (I love Red Line, btw. I just can't bring myself to spend the money.)

I did see Lake Speed Jr. (The Motor Oil Geek on YouTube) do a video on oxidation stability and found Mobil 1 Truck and SUV to handle high stress better than "regular" Mobil 1, so I may give that one a go in 0w20 flavor.

You could also look at the ESP line of oils. The X2 0w20 meets Porsche C20 which is a REALLY hard standard to meet. It runs an engine through a crazy performance regime with high stress high rpm conditions. I'd even consider ESP 0w30. My understanding is that the ESP oils still have a substantial amount of PAO.

 

[DanW]

Wow, I just checked, PUP 0w20 also has higher flash point than PUP 5w30, 208 degrees vs 203 degrees celcius.
But the sad thing is that Mobil 1 EP 0w20 is no more 60-70% PAO, it is like 30% now. Mobil 1 also uses GTL now

I just checked and Redline is around $100 for 5 quarts. OUCH! I'd run it if I could get 5 quarts for $50.

I'll probably just stick with M1 EP 0w20. $30 for 5 quarts, still 30% PAO, and my engines seem to love it.

My fiance has a 2.4 in her Compass and she drives a lot for work. I run M1 EP 0w20 in it. She gets close to 10k miles every oil change from all the driving. I feel good about that oil hitting those distances. She lives in Dayton, OH, so sometime she'll push past 10k before I can get to it, so EP gives me peace of mind if that happens.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Yep, they changed the formula. But I wouldn't worry about it. I don't believe they've compromised the overall performance of the oil in this application. I haven't done one in awhile, but I will do a UOA at some point on the new formulation. And 30% is still more than anyone else outside of boutique oils, such as Amsoil or Red Line. (I love Red Line, btw. I just can't bring myself to spend the money.)

I did see Lake Speed Jr. (The Motor Oil Geek on YouTube) do a video on oxidation stability and found Mobil 1 Truck and SUV to handle high stress better than "regular" Mobil 1, so I may give that one a go in 0w20 flavor.

You could also look at the ESP line of oils. The X2 0w20 meets Porsche C20 which is a REALLY hard standard to meet. It runs an engine through a crazy performance regime with high stress high rpm conditions. I'd even consider ESP 0w30. My understanding is that the ESP oils still have a substantial amount of PAO.

M1 ESP 0w30 is available at Walmart for $27.99 / 5qt jug or Autozone $38 / 5qt jug. I haven't seen any oil that comes close to this oil for anywhere near the price. M1 ESP 0W30 meets Porsche C30, API SP.
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-esp-0w-30

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