Would like some input on trade vs upgrade

[CptFloridaMan]

^This is the actual math.



^This is not.

Your math should be:

Your sport would take $7K to get rubicon axles. Trading costs $18K.

That means it will cost you an additional $11k over the axle swap.

Will you get an extra $11k worth of options that are actually valued at $11K to you? For example, if a Jeep came with 20" rims, no matter how much they cost new or what they are currently valued at, they would have $0 of value to me.

If you planned to spend the money on a mopar lift ($2k or so) and get new tires ($2K or so) and new rims ($2K or so). That is $6k worth of upgrades but you no longer get tot make the choices of what rims, what tires, what lift, what shocks.

Just something to keep in mind.

Interesting, didn’t consider the math that way.

In terms of value, I was planning a new lift and shocks, and it looks like that one has a mopar lift judging by the photos. By my rough math, if I continue with my mental build in my spreadsheet it’s about $11k of additional mods, including the axles. This one has basically everything I’d want minus my compressor. I wouldn’t be touching anything else if I do follow through and get this jeep. Costs overall are higher but I would get power locks etc that I don’t have now.

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[Dakota Jeeper]

Interesting, didn’t consider the math that way.

In terms of value, I was planning a new lift and shocks, and it looks like that one has a mopar lift judging by the photos. By my rough math, if I continue with my mental build in my spreadsheet it’s about $11k of additional mods, including the axles. This one has basically everything I’d want minus my compressor. I wouldn’t be touching anything else if I do follow through and get this jeep. Costs overall are higher but I would get power locks etc that I don’t have now.

I think it would depend on what you are wanting and you can certainly make a case that the rubicon makes more sense. I just wanted to point out the math. It is easy to fall in the mental trap comparing monthly payments. Dealerships use that talking point all the time. But just keep in mind, if I said I would give you a brand new set of tires for $500 a month for 3 months ($1,500 total) or someone else would give you a new set of tires for $500 a month for 12 months ($6K total), you would would clearly choose the 3 months. The monthly payments were the same but the actual price is far higher with one.

Switching topics a little, an on board air compressor is really sweet. Its on the short list of upgrades I want to add as well.

 

[Punkn89]

I wouldn’t be touching anything else if I do follow through and get this jeep.

Heard that before, too many times.

 

[CptFloridaMan]

I think it would depend on what you are wanting and you can certainly make a case that the rubicon makes more sense. I just wanted to point out the math. It is easy to fall in the mental trap comparing monthly payments. Dealerships use that talking point all the time. But just keep in mind, if I said I would give you a brand new set of tires for $500 a month for 3 months ($1,500 total) or someone else would give you a new set of tires for $500 a month for 12 months ($6K total), you would would clearly choose the 3 months. The monthly payments were the same but the actual price is far higher with one.

Switching topics a little, an on board air compressor is really sweet. Its on the short list of upgrades I want to add as well.

Trust the overall cost is on my mind. But on my list of mods on my sport, i’ve been planning leather when my cloth seats start showing wear, i’ve been wanting to swap my plastic steering wheel with the rubi wheel, and axles etc of course. So overall costs are higher but I’ll also get some upgrades my better half would like. The seat warmer would be a real nice addition of her imo.

People fall into that affirm shit all the time and it kills me everytime. Imo that’s the next bubble that’s gonna pop is the buy now pay later stuff.

The compressor was single handedly the best practical mod. I also keep a plug kit in the back of the jeep so it’s been real convenient when someone needs air or a plug.

 

[CptFloridaMan]

Heard that before, too many times.

in my defense, that’s assuming i don’t break anything

 

[entropy]

Interesting, didn’t consider the math that way.

In terms of value, I was planning a new lift and shocks, and it looks like that one has a mopar lift judging by the photos. By my rough math, if I continue with my mental build in my spreadsheet it’s about $11k of additional mods, including the axles. This one has basically everything I’d want minus my compressor. I wouldn’t be touching anything else if I do follow through and get this jeep. Costs overall are higher but I would get power locks etc that I don’t have now.

It really sounds to me you want an upgrade and dont feel like throwing so much cash at a base sport that doesn't even have power locks.

I get it!.

Dont assume it has the "mopar lift" it could very well be a spacer lift or rough country or whatever.

How much is the willys XR these days?. That might be something of interest to you. It has dana44 axles, comes with 35s, better gearing and it is ready to roll. No lockers though! So budget about 3k for lockers.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

Really not sure if this is the right spot. Mods if not, please move it. Thanks.

So I’m in a predicament. I was ready to do a rubi axle swap on my sport, $5,500 on allmoparparts including front rubi brakes. I would do the swap with my dad. Grand total of $5,844 without steersmarts stuff. But then I need steering, and was looking at steersmarts, so about another $1,000. I’m estimating about $7,000 all said and done for rubi axles, front brakes, and steering. My dad being the devil on my shoulder told me look at what a rubi costs now, and it’s basically done with everything. We found a 21’ Rubi with 6k miles, mopar lift, 37s basically fully loaded for $48,988.

I’m curious what rates are gonna be but my credit is great, and to bring payments down to the mid $500 range I’m able to put $10,000 down on it, assuming I also get about $28k-$30k on my sport.
The logic right now is that the rubi has everything I want, including power locks, lockers and power windows. So an extra $3k up front doesn’t seem too bad considering it’s a 2021 with 6k miles.

Jeep in question

The real question you need to be asking yourself is why did the previous owner traded in with 6,000 miles?

Typically there's only really two reasons to trade in something with that low of miles or really any miles for that matter.

Reason 1.) It doesn't fit into your lifestyle, which is something you usually find in vehicles in the 30,000 mi 150,000 mi range. Your typically going to drive a vehicle for a minimum of a year before you decide it's not the vehicle for you.

Reason 2.) It done broke and you traded it in while you still could. With only 6,000 mi that would be my biggest fear, you're buying something that somebody else traded in because it was too damn expensive to fix. Now the question is if this is the reason they traded it in, did the dealership actually fix it or did they mask it so that they can flip it? 99 times out of 100 it's the latter.

Also too you kind of have to take into account that it's 37s on Dana 44 axles, you can't just throw a lift on a Wrangler and put some 37's on there, you need to upgrade a whole lot of other parts so that they don't break or fail along the way. So while you are buying everything you want, you definitely want to be thinking about all the stuff that was never upgraded that you're going to need to upgrade to. So it really comes down to if you can do it for $7,000 is it worth taking on $40,000 of debt for a vehicle that you don't really know that well. You know you're very well, you know after you do the $7,000 upgrade it'll give you everything you want for now.

Personally I'd stick with the $7,000 axle upgrade on your current sport, and not take me on a lot of extra debt for something that may have issues 10,000 miles after you get it.

 

[Beasty]

In the end, youre going to do what ever you want to do. With that being said, I would get the rubicon because it feels like that is what you want most. Yes the price is more and you will have more debt but you seem younger and life to short to listen to "save money by doing this" or "its not worth it". Don't worry about others opinion and do what you want.

Someone will always have a better jeep, if the rubicon will make you happy, do it.

 

[jonyothan]

You aren't going to get 5.5% It will be closer to 7-8%

how? i got 5.5% over 72 months on my rubicon no problem

 

[CptFloridaMan]

The real question you need to be asking yourself is why did the previous owner traded in with 6,000 miles?

Typically there's only really two reasons to trade in something with that low of miles or really any miles for that matter.

Reason 1.) It doesn't fit into your lifestyle, which is something you usually find in vehicles in the 30,000 mi 150,000 mi range. Your typically going to drive a vehicle for a minimum of a year before you decide it's not the vehicle for you.

Reason 2.) It done broke and you traded it in while you still could. With only 6,000 mi that would be my biggest fear, you're buying something that somebody else traded in because it was too damn expensive to fix. Now the question is if this is the reason they traded it in, did the dealership actually fix it or did they mask it so that they can flip it? 99 times out of 100 it's the latter.

Also too you kind of have to take into account that it's 37s on Dana 44 axles, you can't just throw a lift on a Wrangler and put some 37's on there, you need to upgrade a whole lot of other parts so that they don't break or fail along the way. So while you are buying everything you want, you definitely want to be thinking about all the stuff that was never upgraded that you're going to need to upgrade to. So it really comes down to if you can do it for $7,000 is it worth taking on $40,000 of debt for a vehicle that you don't really know that well. You know you're very well, you know after you do the $7,000 upgrade it'll give you everything you want for now.

Personally I'd stick with the $7,000 axle upgrade on your current sport, and not take me on a lot of extra debt for something that may have issues 10,000 miles after you get it.

If this one doesn’t work out I’ll be keeping my sport. The carfax does concern my as to why the previous owner may have gotten rid of it. Not sure if it has death wobble issues etc. I’m a little suspect of it to be entirely honest. But that’s also why i’m curious to go look at it and start asking these questions. Cause after 6k miles, and original window sticker of $59k it doesn’t make sense to me to spend all the money on the mods only to get rid of it. Even if the dealer sold it with the wheels and lift.

It really sounds to me you want an upgrade and dont feel like throwing so much cash at a base sport that doesn't even have power locks.

I get it!.

Dont assume it has the "mopar lift" it could very well be a spacer lift or rough country or whatever.

How much is the willys XR these days?. That might be something of interest to you. It has dana44 axles, comes with 35s, better gearing and it is ready to roll. No lockers though! So budget about 3k for lockers.

For some reason I can’t even filter Willys on autotrader. But that would also be an appealing option if i got a willy’s sport S with power locks etc. But at that point i’d rather just build up my jeep.

 

[fat_head]

how? i got 5.5% over 72 months on my rubicon no problem

I didn't even think about credit unions. We got 7.5ish last month right before Christmas on a Grand Cherokee

 

[aldo98229]

Prices of used Rubicons are coming down.

I haven’t read all prior 25 posts, but $49,000 is not bad. I just wouldn’t buy one so heavily modified. I don’t trust the quality standards or the attention to detail of complete strangers.

Judging by the prices around here, you should be able to get a very nice Rubicon with under 20,000 miles for anywhere between $41,000 and $48,000, depending on the factory options.

 

[rkwfxd]

When I started reading this I was in the “mod the sport boat” but as I got farther into it I was fully in the “buy the Rubicon boat”.

Now Im not so sure for YOU.

I think the Rubi is a much better jeep with more value in the long run. But your concerns about money, savings, payments, interest etc… make me question if you should even buy the axles let alone the Rubicon.

Do you NEED full Rubi axles for what you do?

What are your financial goals for each month, the end of the year and in five years? Can you buy the Rubi and still meat those goals?

 

[CptFloridaMan]

When I started reading this I was in the “mod the sport boat” but as I got farther into it I was fully in the “buy the Rubicon boat”.

Now Im not so sure for YOU.

I think the Rubi is a much better jeep with more value in the long run. But your concerns about money, savings, payments, interest etc… make me question if you should even buy the axles let alone the Rubicon.

Do you NEED full Rubi axles for what you do?

What are your financial goals for each month, the end of the year and in five years? Can you buy the Rubi and still meat those goals?

Money wise, paying monthly for a rubi won’t be any different than what i’m paying now assuming rates and downpayment and trade in value. I deposit anywhere from 50-70% of my
income into my savings or brokerage and keep my monthly bills pretty much $2k. I also already have axle money set aside from this month. It was more of a question of well if i’m spending this much money, what else can this money go into instead.

Now the thing is if I don’t follow through or the numbers don’t make sense(rates are nutty and the fed isn’t gonna drop them anytime soon), i’m still planning on keeping this jeep for a minimum of 7 more years or at least until the next shiny new jeep comes out.

Goals wise since you’re asking, end of the year, I’d like to have deposited a minimum(past fews it’s been around $30k) of $24k YTD from January to January. And in 5 years I’ll want to put money down on a house without the need for a PMI with my girlfriend; wife in the future. We’re both saving pretty heavily thankfully.

Now, do I need rubi axles for what I do now? Not really I can get by and turtle my way over things like I do now. It’s more a thing for peace of mind and more trips planned while still on 35s and being able to not worry about the clutch packs in the rear diff. I could also regear and add a rear locker possibly front since I’d be paying for the labor.

 

[Opus]

For me if you can afford the Rubi, get the Rubi now. Building up a Sport to essentially be a Rubi makes more sense if you can't afford everything all at once. Lots of folks start with a Sport. Then they save up a little money, and upgrade as they go. In the end they might actually spend more money than if they had just bought the Rubi, but since it's over time they can finance it at their pace. Plus, they know that their build is exactly what they wanted it to be.

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