Search results

I was wondering why you bought OEM stuff to replace it. That wouldn't normally make sense. Checked Rock Auto and they don't even have Melling or any of those guys' parts listed.

I went with single piece axles and FAD delete. Less complex is better is my motto.

If the flange on the bottom of the ujoint is flat to the mating surface of the "C", it's seated.

The best mod any JL owner can do is disabling stop/start and permanently deleting the battery. What an absolute fucking worthless "feature" (read: will leave you stranded one day) on the JL. There is literally no benefit to leaving it enabled. None. Dont even start with gas savings. The...

I just want to say I'm glad to see you (BFH) posting here. I've been watching your videos for a long time on YT. Thanks for joining and I'm looking forward to your JL/JT related stuff.

I've bought them and use them. I haven't had one break yet, even using a high torque impact doing exactly the same job the OP is doing. I don't expect them to last forever, but they've lasted so far.

I agree they arent very good. But for a guy wanting to do a job one time it's fine. Thats the best part about HF in my opinion. It gives shade tree mechanics the ability to do stuff affordably.

Texas is the second most popular state to move to in 2022 :mad:

I'm betting the OP isnt from Texas. I apologize on behalf of all real Texans for the OP.

A puller will take it right off. The larger one in this set should do it. https://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw-puller-set-3-piece-63953.html

You're going to SUBSTANTIALLY increase your legal defense bill arguing self defense when you start the altercation using an illegal train horn.

Florida man. It's not just a meme.

I wouldn't get a 4xe under any circumstances. The added cost, weight, complexity and pathetic range makes it a non-starter for me. As for a Rubicon. Do you plan to take it off road? If not, I wouldn't get that either. Why pay for all the extras it gives you if you will never use them...

Try and start it. If it doesnt start, check codes. Fix problem triggering codes. I'm not sure there's going to be anyone here who can guide you step by step on restoring a crashed Jeep. You are going to have to work through the problems as you encounter them.

The top of the truss was making contact with the frame of the Jeep. Had to install bump stop extensions. Also, the barnes truss only crosses/bridges the FAD on one side (front side). I added a piece of steel to bridge it and tie it all together on the back side. That clearance problem I...

I just spent 30 minutes trying to find any information from him about it. Scrolled through 3000000000000 pictures of the exact same jeep lol jeez. I'd like to hear about his broken gears. Finding anything specific about/from him is impossible though.

Blanket statements like this are a little misleading. Too small for what? For what driving? For what terrain? I say this as a guy with 5.13's who hasn't broke them yet.

I can't confirm rears do, but I can confirm front does. I put my Sport brakes on a rubicon housing for the front. 392 SHOULD work, but someone else should verify that. I'm not a expert on the ins and outs of 392 particulars. Having the FAD delete would be nice.

No driveshaft needed. Sport brakes bolt right on on the front. I stuck with the Sport axle in the rear. Spending the money to upgrade to the Rubicon housing is a waste of money imo. It's literally the exact same thing minus 1.5 inches width.

I welded the Barnes front truss on mine and ran into the clearance issue (because I didn't read the instructions lol) If I could do it again, I like that Rustys truss because of its low profile, although I'd put a couple drain holes along the bottom edge.