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UD44 caster setup?

JLanesey

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I just replaced both of my axles with UD44 and M220 for rear.

I just installed Tom woods driveshafts front and rear and the installation instructions state pinion pointed at driveshaft.

With the control arms adjusted as they were factory the pinion VS transfer case we’re close to parallel,I’ve adjusted my upper control arms out about a 1/2” to get the front pinion pointed close to the transfer case. I can go farther but the reading I’m getting to the bottom of the Cs is approaching zero, the spreader holes are still angled back 8 degrees from being 90* from level. If I continue lengthening the uppers it will bring those holes close to 90 but then I think it would make the caster go to -6*?

I’m slightly confused so any help would be appreciated I’ll throw some pics below.

also with the double Cardan rear should I be adjusting my pinion angle up slightly back there as well?
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Canjeeper

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Only double cardon needs the pinion to be pointed 1 degree below shaft angle . Is the front shaft a double cardon ? in the front i would put castor first .
 
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JLanesey

JLanesey

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Only double cardon needs the pinion to be pointed 1 degree below shaft angle . Is the front shaft a double cardon ? in the front i would put castor first .
I jacked the jeep to level and checked bottom of big C, it’s tough with the digital angle finder because readings varied widely even if you moved it slightly but with the old school one I’m just short of 5 now which requires dialing the control arms back in a bunch. Steering is better but it felt better before with the 6* caster. I saved the original measurements so I can easily swap back, I didn’t seem to get much help with the vibrations even with the pinion pointed directly at the t case.

Now im wondering if the rear may be my issue. With a 2 door the double Cardan on each side of the t case makes it kind of hard to tell. It appears there are no ramifications to pointing the rear up a bit besides the spring perches. I may remove front D/S (PIA!) and see how the rear feels before I make anymore adjustments. Now im kind of hoping it’s the rear with the short shaft and double Cardan making the vibe. Also it only happens between 30/40mph.
 

Canjeeper

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yes i would remove front DS and check for vibrations . How much lift are you running ?
 
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JLanesey

JLanesey

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yes i would remove front DS and check for vibrations . How much lift are you running ?
3.5” Clayton lift, rode beautiful with the stock rear and no front in after initial alignment after axle swap.

I should have changed the shafts one at a time and test drove but I was just excited to get them on and it wasn’t the most fun job so I wanted to get it over with.
 
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JLanesey

JLanesey

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Wish I tested rear first….

That was a much easier adjustment than the front UCA’s. I was worried about vibration with the elimination of the FAD so I was hyper focused on the front not thinking the rear could be the problem!

I set the Control arms to the measurement listed for 3.5” lift in the Clayton instruction manual and it set the pinion perfect. Previous owner had lift installed but it rode good so never questioned it.
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