CarbonSteel
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Does it integrate into your existing switches/indicators (assuming that you have a Rubicon)?I went Eaton. Didn’t want a compressor under the hood.
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Does it integrate into your existing switches/indicators (assuming that you have a Rubicon)?I went Eaton. Didn’t want a compressor under the hood.
Likely and to put it into context, the labor rates from 3 quotes in Houston range from $90 to $115 per hour. Obviously, I am not handing them pulled axles with all of the internals removed. They have to remove the axle housings from the Jeep, gut them, prep, pre-heat, weld, post-heat, cleanup, paint, re-install everything, re-install the axle housings into the Jeep, and test everything.These labor swings may have to do with the difference between driving a Jeep up and bringing a removed axle in the bed of a truck. Just a guess.
If a shop wanted to install a truss with the axle still in the Jeep, I would be driving away just as fast as I drove up.For sure is. I am pretty positive most trusses require damn near removal...so labor has to factor in there as pretty substantial unless it's like your situation.
Color me overkilledIf you are just going with 35's you don't need to do a single thing, 37's just add the cromoly shafts to the front and rear for a little extra insurance. Anything more is way overkill.
Also as much as I love the next venture skids they eat up at a whole ton of clearance, i've got more clearance with my Dana 60 than I did with the 44 and the skid.
Color me overkilled
Truth be told, I waffled a lot on the 60's especially after coming out of a F-250 PSD, but as crazy as this sound), I like the FAD concept and wanted to keep it. From that perspective, I have no issues going the route I did. In my case, I am fairly confident that it will be strong enough for whatever I will do with it and I like having the confidence in knowing that I "overbuilt" it (if one can do such a thing).Lol I fully built my axles for 37’s, I did everything on that list you have so I’m all about the overkill but these new axles are much better than the JK.
Having spent the money twice id just go with the Currie axles.
I just installed a 40 spline fusion Dana 60 semi float in the rear. I should have done that from the start.
Same that’s why I’m going to see what happens with the front. I’ve added a truss and gusset, rcv’s, dynatrac ball joints, arb diff covers which act as a truss, etc it should hold with the 39’sTruth be told, I waffled a lot on the 60's especially after coming out of a F-250 PSD, but as crazy as this sound), I like the FAD concept and wanted to keep it. From that perspective, I have no issues going the route I did. In my case, I am fairly confident that it will be strong enough for whatever I will do with it and I like having the confidence in knowing that I "overbuilt" it (if one can do such a thing).
I was under the impression that 60s also required different wheels? Equalling even more to upgrade?Or you can go with these.
There are 5 lug Dana 60 axles (like the ones that @BattleBorn posted) vs. the typical 8 lug axles that are common with Dana 60.I was under the impression that 60s also required different wheels? Equalling even more to upgrade?
These curries keep the 5x5 bolt pattern.I was under the impression that 60s also required different wheels? Equalling even more to upgrade?
That is why I got them. I got wheels for 5 lug a while ago and didn’t really want that added expense of switching to 8 lug.These curries keep the 5x5 bolt pattern.
They dont have to remove the internals to do the truss dude, those axles are huge heat sinks, all they have to do is take their time and minimize the welds on the diffLikely and to put it into context, the labor rates from 3 quotes in Houston range from $90 to $115 per hour. Obviously, I am not handing them pulled axles with all of the internals removed. They have to remove the axle housings from the Jeep, gut them, prep, pre-heat, weld, post-heat, cleanup, paint, re-install everything, re-install the axle housings into the Jeep, and test everything.
There is some economy of scale involved here (related to the truss installation) because they have to pull the axle shafts and gears anyway to re-gear, but that is not a lot of hours (to remove these parts). The lion's share of truss install time is tied to prep, pre/post heating, welding, and cleanup.
Everyone I have talked to that does this regularly says they do. The pre and post heating alone would be a reason to disassemble it.They dont have to remove the internals to do the truss dude, those axles are huge heat sinks, all they have to do is take their time and minimize the welds on the diff
Everyone I have talked to that does this regularly says they do. The pre and post heating alone would be a reason to disassemble it.