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Upgrading Front D44 Axles vs. Buying Front UD44 Axle

CarbonSteel

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I will be performing some upgrades on my front and rear axles soon and wanted to walk through a comparison of upgrading my existing D44 front axle versus buying a UD 44 front axle, I had already decided to upgrade my existing axles, but this may provide some insight into the cost differences. I want to keep my FAD (and I am in the minority on that I am sure).

In the end, I believe they are a few things that I am doing that are "better" than what comes with the UD44 and vice-versa. For the cost difference, (both with all of the things I am doing vs. mimicking the UD 44 as closely as possible), I am happy with upgrading my axle versus buying the UD44.

Hope this helps someone and thoughts/comments welcome.

Link To Google Sheet

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BattleBorn

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I will be performing some upgrades on my front and rear axles soon and wanted to walk through a comparison of upgrading my existing D44 front axle versus buying a UD 44 front axle, I had already decided to upgrade my existing axles, but this may provide some insight into the cost differences. I want to keep my FAD (and I am in the minority on that I am sure).

In the end, I believe they are a few things that I am doing that are "better" than what comes with the UD44 and vice-versa. For the cost difference, (both with all of the things I am doing vs. mimicking the UD 44 as closely as possible), I am happy with upgrading my axle versus buying the UD44.

Hope this helps someone and thoughts/comments welcome.

Link To Google Sheet

Or you can go with these.

39B95700-F9AD-4AAF-A3D7-065001F73C25.png
 

BattleBorn

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I will be performing some upgrades on my front and rear axles soon and wanted to walk through a comparison of upgrading my existing D44 front axle versus buying a UD 44 front axle, I had already decided to upgrade my existing axles, but this may provide some insight into the cost differences. I want to keep my FAD (and I am in the minority on that I am sure).

In the end, I believe they are a few things that I am doing that are "better" than what comes with the UD44 and vice-versa. For the cost difference, (both with all of the things I am doing vs. mimicking the UD 44 as closely as possible), I am happy with upgrading my axle versus buying the UD44.

Hope this helps someone and thoughts/comments welcome.

Link To Google Sheet


[/QUOTE
I will be performing some upgrades on my front and rear axles soon and wanted to walk through a comparison of upgrading my existing D44 front axle versus buying a UD 44 front axle, I had already decided to upgrade my existing axles, but this may provide some insight into the cost differences. I want to keep my FAD (and I am in the minority on that I am sure).

In the end, I believe they are a few things that I am doing that are "better" than what comes with the UD44 and vice-versa. For the cost difference, (both with all of the things I am doing vs. mimicking the UD 44 as closely as possible), I am happy with upgrading my axle versus buying the UD44.

Hope this helps someone and thoughts/comments welcome.

Link To Google Sheet

im kind on fin the same predicament. I have a sport so not even 44’s. I know I’m want to run 37’s and do not want to deal with failures later. I know if I get 44’s and do all the work to them I’ll be in 9’g’s plus. For the extra 2 I get a way better product and they are 60’s.
 
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CarbonSteel

CarbonSteel

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im kind on fin the same predicament. I have a sport so not even 44’s. I know I’m want to run 37’s and do not want to deal with failures later. I know if I get 44’s and do all the work to them I’ll be in 9’g’s plus. For the extra 2 I get a way better product and they are 60’s.
I waffled on looking at 60's, but I am good with building out my D44 axles. I like the FAD and after adding trusses, "C" gussets, and Dana chrome moly axles, it will be strong enough for what I intend to do with it. I am running 35's at present, but if I ever go to 37's, I still feel comfortable with my upgrades versus moving to a 60 series axle and there are a number of upgrades that I am doing in the project that are not covered by the 60's and would have to be added on top of that.
 

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CarbonSteel

CarbonSteel

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You’re paying $800 per axle to install trusses? I paid about just short of 500 for install on both axles. 1600 is nuts
I have multiple quotes so that cost is inline with what it costs here. Prices will always vary from region to region. It is what it is and trying to go outside of my area to chase a cheaper price will only cost more in the long run--particularly if there are issues after the fact. There is quite a bit of pre and post welding heating that is involved (which takes time) and if not done correctly can warp the axle or worse.
 

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Thanks I really appreciate this post! I’m starting down the rabbit hole. My front ball joints are getting a little sloppy and I’ve been starting to think about what upgrades when. sharing your research helps me and others in the same boat out a ton!

☕🍺🍻🥂🍷🥃🍸🍹🍶🥛🍼Cheers to the Grinch
 

mnjeeper

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$8k in upgrades is hard for me to imagine. To me, it's $12k since stock sets sell for $4k. More to the point, it's $12k towards tons if I want to spend that much.

What I don't understand, is why? You mention you are on 35s. Have you had issues? Just being proactive?
 

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I have multiple quotes so that cost is inline with what it costs here. Prices will always vary from region to region. It is what it is and trying to go outside of my area to chase a cheaper price will only cost more in the long run--particularly if there are issues after the fact. There is quite a bit of pre and post welding heating that is involved (which takes time) and if not done correctly can warp the axle or worse.
That price is in line with what a skilled person charges in our area. I would not give my Jeep to someone who charged $250 per axle for this work. That’s a price I’d expect to pay someone you picked for day labor in a Home Depot parking lot.
 
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CarbonSteel

CarbonSteel

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$8k in upgrades is hard for me to imagine. To me, it's $12k since stock sets sell for $4k. More to the point, it's $12k towards tons if I want to spend that much.

What I don't understand, is why? You mention you are on 35s. Have you had issues? Just being proactive?
Being proactive and I may go to 37's at some point--but even that would not justify 1 ton axles (for me). There would be a fair amount of duplication in labor if I re-gear only and later decide to install trusses/gussets, etc. so "buy once and cry once". I had not considered the knuckles, but after reading and researching the ball joint issues, I added them to the stack.

@MN Jeeper - PS...there are also things in the list that would not come with the 1 tons and that cost would have to be added on top (covers, skids, ball joints, knuckles, etc.).
 

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mnjeeper

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Totally understand. I do think your duplication of labor if you only regeared now isn't likely as bad as you think.

Side note. You have a MT? Those gears with an auto and 35s might not make you happy.
 

five9dak

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Your comparison should include selling your original 44(s) if you buy a new assembly. Also consider you will have one point of contact if something goes wrong, instead of many sub contracted shops pointing fingers at each other.
 
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CarbonSteel

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Totally understand. I do think your duplication of labor if you only regeared now isn't likely as bad as you think.

Side note. You have a MT? Those gears with an auto and 35s might not make you happy.
I have the 8 speed auto, but I will also have full skids, winch, etc. While I agree that 4.88 may be a little aggressive, at the same time, I am so done with 4.10 gears and the loss of performance/loss of gears/constant up & down shifting. It may have made sense to go with 4.56, but I wanted options if I went to 37's.
 
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CarbonSteel

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Your comparison should include selling your original 44(s) if you buy a new assembly. Also consider you will have one point of contact if something goes wrong, instead of many sub contracted shops pointing fingers at each other.
True - I had not considered the income from selling the OEMs, but that was not a consideration either.

Totally agree that "One Throat To Choke" is the way to go when doing this many modifications.
 

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I went with the Currie 60’s with 4.88 gearing. Lower end ones. I’ll be running 38’s. It stays 5 lug and LP rear. I myself am being proactive. I’ve seen a couple 44’s buckle out wheeling. I do not want to get stuck in that predicament.
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