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synergy vs steersmarts

spies

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Yes your the fake news type for sure , why and how do I know that ?
You attacked me personally but not my idea. Why don’t you attack the idea of having toe in vs toe out ? that’s what the discussion is , you attack me personally but never actually discuss the issue. So take a side like I did and all the people who liked your comment as you guys support and accept toe out, I do not. I support and standby my 40 years of automotive knowledge and every other expert in their field that’s says toe in. Simple.
It seemed like you were pretty offended by him suggesting toe out. Personally, if somebody did something unorthodox, tested it, and says it works, I would try it for myself before running my mouth about "industry experts" and "40 years experience". You said he is attacking you but not your idea. Well, you didn't present an idea in the first place. You just appealed to authority and added nothing to the discussion besides FUD. Back when I used to road race cars, I set a ton of front toe out because I like a very sharp turn-in. And any time I tried to discuss alignment on the internet, it always devolved into a shit show similar to this, with guys repeating what they've read or what some expert has said, without actually trying anything for themselves.
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spies

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I have the steer smarts and it has done me well and I've destroyed it even replaced the adjuster tube on the tie rod. I'm switching to a new aluminum steering 2" and doing testing for the company before its released for sale.

IMG_0465.webp
What company? Looks good.
 

RubiRob

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It's more complicated than it needs to be. Anytime you add complexity where it's not needed you just add additional points of failure. I don't know of anyone having a failure and I'm not saying their stuff isn't great quality, i just don't like things that are more complicated than they need to be. I like their stuff, I'd just rather go with something simpler with less parts.
What's complicated?
 

SS_AP

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Original Poster here. Got all the parts and installed. A big improvement in the steering! Absolutely loving how the JL drives now. I did have a Couple of issues and questions though:

1) I have the evo 3.5” long arm lift kit. Given the recommendations for top mount only with > 3.5in lift, I went with the bottom mount. The evo kit raises the rear track bar, and they recommend an adjustable front track bar as well. I want to raise the front track bar and use the top mount drag link, has anyone tested with the evo 3.5 long arm lift kit? I’m considering trying it if no one has tested it.

2) installed your sway bar link ends. The passenger side didn’t fit easily into the bottom bracket and required quite some effort to widen the bottom bracket to fit. Feels like your drag link needs to be a tad narrower to fit with no issues...

3) I set to toe in, but with your recommendation I’m going to try toe out and see how it drives...

4) is it possible to install a falcon 2.2 or fox racing stabilizer on the steersmarts setup with no issue? I’m running your steering stabilizer, but like the idea of some adjustability

TIA!
1. The issue with doing the top mount on the front is that you'll have to increase the bump stop so that you don't have any interference with the frame. The guys over at Rock Krawler have been running our tie rod and draglink and have been using the bottom mount on their 4.5" lift without issue. You can do the flip, but you need to increase bump on passenger side d/t JL's increased up travel. Personally, I suggest remaining bottom mount.

2. Thanks for the feedback. We are finding that there are inconsistencies from the factory with where they are mounting the tabs for the passenger side swaybar end links. Some peoples are able to just slide them right in while others are finding the same as you and having to bend the tab out slightly.

3. Definitely recommend toe-out, regardless of those who are claiming "fake news"

4. There are ways to make the falcon and ats style stabilizers work with our setup, yes. This is a guide from Northridge talking about how to make the falcon work and what you need. On both options, you need to make sure that you have a 1-5/8" damper bracket to make them work. Aside from that, you'll need to check clearances on everything since those stabilizers definitely take up more space.
@SS_AP , @AllJumpStyle ,

when running your tie rod and Steering Stabilizer relocation setup with new draglink are there any clearance issues with a Stabilizer with a piggyback res? I will have the 2" Synergy lift, with a Fox Factory Race stabilizer. it seems everything is pretty tight under there between the draglink and tie rod when flexing.

plan is to run this: FACTORY RACE SERIES 2.0 ATS STABILIZER - 983-02-148

but I'm worried it may not fit if not in the factory location. Fox makes a bracket to swap to a track bar mount, but not sure how things will fit once everything is aftermarket.
That will definitely be a case by case situation. You will have to adjust everything so that everything clearances correctly. If you were stock, I would say it probably won't work. On 2" I would think you can probably make it work, but it will be tight for sure.
 

AllJumpStyle

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@SS_AP , @AllJumpStyle ,

when running your tie rod and Steering Stabilizer relocation setup with new draglink are there any clearance issues with a Stabilizer with a piggyback res? I will have the 2" Synergy lift, with a Fox Factory Race stabilizer. it seems everything is pretty tight under there between the draglink and tie rod when flexing.

plan is to run this: FACTORY RACE SERIES 2.0 ATS STABILIZER - 983-02-148

but I'm worried it may not fit if not in the factory location. Fox makes a bracket to swap to a track bar mount, but not sure how things will fit once everything is aftermarket.
You should be able to make it all fit with 2" of bump stop spacing. It is very tight though. I'd highly recommend cycling the suspension and steering with the coil springs removed to make sure everything clears at full bump.
 

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OnBordAdventures

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Pretty sure I’m one of the first people to have this on their JLUR on the site. Now to see if it binds or not as we had to fabricate a bracket to get it to fit with the Steer smarts products.

Jeep Wrangler JL synergy vs steersmarts E1C1D222-1524-4D18-B4E7-E2FE121AD68D
 
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Cypher

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Pretty sure I’m the first and only person to
Have this on their JLUR on the site. Now to see if it binds or not as we had to fabricate a bracket to get it to fit with the Steer smarts products.

E1C1D222-1524-4D18-B4E7-E2FE121AD68D.webp
Very nice. What swaybar links are those ?
 

OffroadTreks

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Pretty sure I’m the first and only person to
Have this on their JLUR on the site. Now to see if it binds or not as we had to fabricate a bracket to get it to fit with the Steer smarts products.

E1C1D222-1524-4D18-B4E7-E2FE121AD68D.webp
You're not the first person with hydro. Sorry. ;)
 

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spies

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Very nice. What swaybar links are those ?
Tire Popper Pros? I would reverse that top bolt... and how long do your shocks have to be to need that much misalignment?
 

Solidaxle

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The Jeep JL is always breaking new ground. First a Re-designed oil system that Jeep thinks takes 5 quarts but really takes 6 quarts. Now we find out Jeep has been stupidly setting the alignment wrong since 1946 and it took the experts at SS work on the JL to turn the industry upside down by announcing a brand new innovation , testing revealed something to them that every other person missed. Set your JL Toe out ! Yes the crowd goes wild the clouds part it’s a miracle how could we have all been so stupid.
 

rustyshakelford

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rustyshakelford

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Pretty sure I’m the first and only person to
Have this on their JLUR on the site. Now to see if it binds or not as we had to fabricate a bracket to get it to fit with the Steer smarts products.

E1C1D222-1524-4D18-B4E7-E2FE121AD68D.webp
Jason is one of the top Jeep builders in the country. If he has his hands on it, it’ll be done right

Brett
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