Problems

[Yankee1019]

There is also a common issue with the CAN bus that has something to do with the cable/harness behind the glove box. If you replace the batteries and it doesn’t resolve your issue might be worth looking into it. With a quick search of the forums I found this thread/comment.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/wrangler-tantrum.96939/post-2012707

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[Hurley]

There is also a common issue with the CAN bus that has something to do with the cable/harness behind the glove box. If you replace the batteries and it doesn’t resolve your issue might be worth looking into it. With a quick search of the forums I found this thread/comment.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/wrangler-tantrum.96939/post-2012707

That's my thread and alas no answers. Been at the dealership goin on 3 weeks now. Currently they're insisting it needs an aux battery, that they can't get 'till mid August! Yesterday I asked if they'd at least disconnected the aux battery as the Jeep can run without it. Even just as a diagnostic step. They promised a call back this morn hoping I could drive it with out the aux battey. No call, problems didn't go away. I know 'cause I've replaced that battery already.

 

[James34]

That's my thread and alas no answers. Been at the dealership goin on 3 weeks now. Currently they're insisting it needs an aux battery, that they can't get 'till mid August! Yesterday I asked if they'd at least disconnected the aux battery as the Jeep can run without it. Even just as a diagnostic step. They promised a call back this morn hoping I could drive it with out the aux battey. No call, problems didn't go away. I know 'cause I've replaced that battery already.

Idk where you are at but Alamosa Colorado town and country has 5 about to be 4 in stock lol. I’ll let you know if it fixes my issue. Gonna replace both

 

[MJDJeep]

Since I didn't replace mine - I was planning to pull a fuse and disconnect a negative cable to isolate my aux. battery, based on this thread:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/jumperless-aux-battery-bypass.95945/

That could be helpful in getting a better read on the main, but I have no idea how you would test one for amperage/load capacity ... other than carrying it to the local parts store for a test.

To this non-electrical guy, it seems that's where the problem lies: lots of systems demanding full power and anything less is big, bad juju.

Big, bad juju would be an excellent name for a rock band.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

If you went through the fuse box like Eddie suggests, that might be the root cause of your other electrical problems. The aux battery should be pulled from below.

 

[mwilk012]

Well as an update two new batteries are in. The aux disconnect read just on the line between week and hood on my load tester and had 12.55 volts. Be warned the dealer ship wanted $140 for the aux batter where as autozone will get you one for $99 on order but I needed it now so ouch. Also having done the aux battery by pulling the fuse box vs pulling the fender I suggest taking the fuse box unless you have the fender clips on hand. I broke 5 getting the fender out. Definitely easer to pull the full fender, it’s only 4 bolts but then I had to find clips. I actually had it reassembled before I got the batteries so I though I’d go through the fuse box. Waylife has a pretty decent video on it on YouTube and it’s not terrible. More shoving wires out of the way but no clips to murder like the fender took maybe 20-25 minutes vs 10 for the fender. Need a 10mm a 7mm and a flat head screw driver to pry the 4 clips that hold the fuse box in. Trim removal tool is nice to pull 2 push button trim clips that are holding a piece of the loom down but I don’t think it matters if you break those. So far the jeep cleared its check engine light and is running fine but idk if that’s permanent or not it’s “fixed” it’s self before for a week or 2 at a time. And to answer some one else from earlier I’ve been idling while typing this for about 5 minutes and it’s reading 14.2 constant on the gauges. I’ll keep it up for the 15 min drive home and update again

There is ZERO reason to pull the fuse box and risk damage to the connectors. This is bad advice. Pull the fender liner, not the fender.

 

[Rico1111]

When I changed out my batteries a few days ago I pulled fender with liner so I didn't have to replace the plastic rivets.....easy peasy except it was 92 degrees out!! that made it hellish, but the task itself was pretty straight forward. I would never go through the fusebox.

 

[James34]

My 2018 went through 3 aux batteries in the 1st 60K miles. I would change that first and see what happens. To change it pull the passenger fender and drop it from bellow and NOT go through the top of the fuse box like a certain YouTuber suggests...

Easier through the top.

There is ZERO reason to pull the fuse box and risk damage to the connectors. This is bad advice. Pull the fender liner, not the fender.

make sure you have the nylon rivets to replace the fender liner if you go that way

 

[mwilk012]

Easier through the top.

make sure you have the nylon rivets to replace the fender liner if you go that way

Don’t rivet them. Use removable clips.

It’s literally the oem service procedure. Anyone who suggests pulling the fuse box is giving bad advice.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

Easier through the top.

make sure you have the nylon rivets to replace the fender liner if you go that way

Not easier if you know what you are doing (you don’t have to remove the fender rivets, just the complete fender) and a heck less risk of damaging your electrical system. Please people DO NOT go through the top.

 

[Hurley]

Unfortunat

Idk where you are at but Alamosa Colorado town and country has 5 about to be 4 in stock lol. I’ll let you know if it fixes my issue. Gonna replace both

Unfortunately I'm up in Canada. But appriciate the heads up.

 

[Jon Downing]

If you went through the fuse box like Eddie suggests, that might be the root cause of your other electrical problems. The aux battery should be pulled from below.

10 months, new batts, into canbus short and losing steering and shifting. I had harnesses replaced, rerouted, checked every wire, fuse, read every thread i could find. Dealers were no help.
Ordered green star connector behind glovebox, replaced yesterday and problems solved. Must have been some short in the board. 50bucks, 5 minutes to fix the biggest headache. Start here, wish I would have known last fall...that connector affects everything!!!!!

 

[Rico1111]

10 months, new batts, into canbus short and losing steering and shifting. I had harnesses replaced, rerouted, checked every wire, fuse, read every thread i could find. Dealers were no help.
Ordered green star connector behind glovebox, replaced yesterday and problems solved. Must have been some short in the board. 50bucks, 5 minutes to fix the biggest headache. Start here, wish I would have known last fall...that connector affects everything!!!!!

Can you go into detail? I did read of someone else who suggested this with gremlins. I would like to know what symptoms you had prior and what the actual part number is of the said green plug. I have seen it when changing out the cabin filter and wondered what it was.

 

[Jon Downing]

Symptoms started Oct21 with intermittent loss of auto start CEL once a week, then the traction control CEL, then ABS CEL. These were intermittent every few days. From there, the loss of speedo and shifting ability as well as loss of steering. The CELs would flash on and off randomly And reset themselves after several starts if there were no occurrences. Steering and shifter reset required stopping and turning off vehicle. It blew every code- like 3 full pages- so the dealer was at a loss and replaced a harness near a heat shield and checked grounds. They even got caught breaking a major harness connector when I had a 2nd dealer look at it. They were more than ready to throw expensive parts at it but with no guarantee if it didn’t work! I was already outside warranty at 90k miles. My 2018 JLU Sport has been flawless except for this gremlin. I read everything and talked with anyone and got nowhere. About 2 months ago, I was wiggling the star connector wires and recreated the errors. I inspected every wire, connector and the plugs and it all looked fine. It began to get worse in the last two weeks making it unsafe to drive and hard to get anywhere when the shifter coded out. There was nothing published on the connector really, so I ordered one up- natl back order. Came in yesterday and took 5 minutes to swap- all fixed. Original connector must have shorted or relay or resistor failed/failing. My name is jon and my number is 805-754-5220 and I want to pass on any help I can to anyone. It was a 10 month hell and I literally had given up hope! The connector purchase was a last ditch Hail Mary.

 

[Rico1111]

Symptoms started Oct21 with intermittent loss of auto start CEL once a week, then the traction control CEL, then ABS CEL. These were intermittent every few days. From there, the loss of speedo and shifting ability as well as loss of steering. The CELs would flash on and off randomly And reset themselves after several starts if there were no occurrences. Steering and shifter reset required stopping and turning off vehicle. It blew every code- like 3 full pages- so the dealer was at a loss and replaced a harness near a heat shield and checked grounds. They even got caught breaking a major harness connector when I had a 2nd dealer look at it. They were more than ready to throw expensive parts at it but with no guarantee if it didn’t work! I was already outside warranty at 90k miles. My 2018 JLU Sport has been flawless except for this gremlin. I read everything and talked with anyone and got nowhere. About 2 months ago, I was wiggling the star connector wires and recreated the errors. I inspected every wire, connector and the plugs and it all looked fine. It began to get worse in the last two weeks making it unsafe to drive and hard to get anywhere when the shifter coded out. There was nothing published on the connector really, so I ordered one up- natl back order. Came in yesterday and took 5 minutes to swap- all fixed. Original connector must have shorted or relay or resistor failed/failing. My name is jon and my number is 805-754-5220 and I want to pass on any help I can to anyone. It was a 10 month hell and I literally had given up hope! The connector purchase was a last ditch Hail Mary.

Well Good on you brother!!!! Your diligence paid off! I am sure I would have thrown my hands up and my wallet would be a lot lighter. The Scary thing is how they are at a loss as how to diagnose or fix these vehicles. Thank you for sharing your hell, I am sure it will come in handy for many of us. Do you have a part number for the actual connectore ..I may want to keep one handy in case I am ever up against this scenario. Again thanks ...It is people like you who share their experiences that help the Jeep community.

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