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Probably beating a dead horse but battery question....

linuxos77

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We have a 2020 Sahara 2.0T with 67k miles. About a year ago, after sitting almost a month at a body shop getting the doors redone from the paint issue the "Service ESS" warning came up and ESS hasn't been working. Maybe 6 months ago I attempted to fix it doing the AUX delete (remove fuse 42 and the negative cable for AUX at the main battery (and wrapped its end in electrical tape). This did not fix the "Service ESS" error and ESS has not been working. Finally having time this past weekend I disconnected the main battery for a minute and reconnected it and the ESS warning went away and it has been working. However as I do mostly small drives ESS wouldn't be available for the first several miles each drive, saying battery charging. Once ESS was working and doing it's thing my speakers would make a 1 second hiss/pop anytime the ESS started engine. ESS performed normal (aside from the speakers thing) until this morning, I was in stop and go traffic and after several stops with the ESS (sometimes seconds between each), the "Service ESS" warning popped back.

So long story short I have to question I come to the experts here on:
1.) I believe my method to isolate the AUX is correct? On a 2020 The negative cable for AUX is the thinner of the two connected to the main battery? This is the one that also has the smaller end, the main negative has the L bracket? I believe sometime after 2020 or 2021 the bracket switched what cable its on?
2.) My guess is the battery always having to charge and the sheer age/mileage mean it's due for replacement? Perhaps that's why my ESS service light came back, and the radio issue? Also when I was driving on the highway battery voltage on dash screen was reading 14.3v what should it be when driving?

If I go new I was looking at H7 AGM batteries to replace the main and keep the AUX out of the loop as it currently is.
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jludave

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I believe my method to isolate the AUX is correct?
It is.

On a 2020 The negative cable for AUX is the thinner of the two connected to the main battery?
It should be. It was on my 2020.

This is the one that also has the smaller end, the main negative has the L bracket?
As I recall, without looking, yes.

I believe sometime after 2020 or 2021 the bracket switched what cable its on?
Correct.

My guess is the battery always having to charge and the sheer age/mileage mean it's due for replacement?
Yes. You are well overdue.
 
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linuxos77

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It is.



It should be. It was on my 2020.



As I recall, without looking, yes.



Correct.



Yes. You are well overdue.
Thanks for the verification! We jusr bought a new car and didn't want to throw money at this Wrangler unless it made sense and was looking for verification my assumptions were correct. I'd bring the Jeep to the dealer and have them scan exactly why the ESS errors, but I'm sure the blame would fall onto the AUX bypass (makes sense they'll only refer/troubleshoot default setup).
 

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Yes, correct! Plus getting a new AGM H7 Battery is the way to go.
 
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linuxos77

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Replaced the battery, got an H7 AGM (first time turning on my Sahara it thought it was a Rubicon, so that was cool. Everything seems good and the ESS works like it's supposed to, however the speakers still do a second of static the the engine restarts after ESS turns it off. Any ideas on this? Driving around my dash shows 14v exactly and goes down to 12 and change when engine off for ESS at a stop. If it matters is the "premium" factory Alpine system with sub. Radio is still in that weird learning mode missing apps, backup camera etc, last time took an hour or two to come back.

To be sure, there's no way this is just running on the AUX and I had previously removed the wrong negative is there? Guessing not but had to ask.
 

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jludave

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Any ideas on this?
Yes, stop using ESS. Most, if not all, of us who bypass the aux battery disable ESS either by pushing the button or using a device like a Tazer or start/stop eliminator. With the AUX bypassed and ESS still enabled, it runs off the main battery.

To be sure, there's no way this is just running on the AUX and I had previously removed the wrong negative is there?
Likely, not if you did the aux bypass correctly.
 
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linuxos77

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Thanks, maybe I jumped the gun on the stereo, after I drove more than 5 minutes the stereo stopped doing that, perhaps the battery had to charge up after sitting in the store. Last question, after moving from H6 to H7 for the new battery that felt cover thing doesn't fit over the H7, does it matter not having the cover?
 

jludave

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