Performing Own Oil Changes

[Formattc]

Thanks guys, but I really don't want to buy two torque wrenches if I can avoid it, I've had a few and they were all ½" drive. The one I'm looking at says it does 10-150 ft/lbs:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MP1Q3W8/

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[BrntWS6]

I would personally would not buy a torque wrench just for an oil filter. I usually go as tight as I can by hand. Or 3/4 to 1 turn past gasket contact.

 

[rickinAZ]

I also use these on all my vehicles. They’re great... maybe not a good idea if you rock crawl with no skid plate/armor protecting your drain valve area, but otherwise no worries! Fumoto F106 M14-1.5 Drain Valve for the Wrangler JL

I heartily agree. My oil changes are completely mess-free - not even a single drop. [you could almost change your oil over your living room carpet]

 

[Formattc]

I would personally would not buy a torque wrench just for an oil filter. I usually go as tight as I can by hand. Or 3/4 to 1 turn past gasket contact.

Yeah, I need one anyway, I've just been putting off buying a new one. I like using a torque wrench on every bolt if I can. My bud and I were putting ball joints on my nieces old Chevy Blazer and he was arguing with me about using a torque wrench to seat the castle nuts, and lo and behold, the cotter pin hole lined up perfectly after using the torque wrench.
Also, I'd normally agree with you about the oil filter but these aren't the old school cannister style oil filters, it's a cartridge filter in a permanent removable housing that screws into the intake, with two o-rings.

 

[txj2go]

Thanks guys, but I really don't want to buy two torque wrenches if I can avoid it, I've had a few and they were all ½" drive. The one I'm looking at says it does 10-150 ft/lbs:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MP1Q3W8/

In my experience you would not trust even a very expensive name brand 1/2" torque wrench below 50ft-lb. If you really need to torque something at low levels, buy a 3/8" or 1/4" wrench.

 

[Formattc]

Well damn, I guess I should probably go with the 3/8" if I'm only picking one, I think it would be generally more useful.
I looked up the lug nut torque value though and it shows 130 ft/lbs! This is one place I'll have deviate from the manual, I am not torquing my lug nuts to 130 lbs. The 3/8" torque wrench tops out at 80 ft/lbs but I guess I could just turn it up all the way and then go just a little bit further once it clicks.

 

[txj2go]

Well damn, I guess I should probably go with the 3/8" if I'm only picking one, I think it would be generally more useful.
I looked up the lug nut torque value though and it shows 130 ft/lbs! This is one place I'll have deviate from the manual, I am not torquing my lug nuts to 130 lbs. The 3/8" torque wrench tops out at 80 ft/lbs but I guess I could just turn it up all the way and then go just a little bit further once it clicks.

For automotive use the things that you really should be torqing to spec are suspension bolts and things like head bolts when you are working on engines, and those things would require 1/2" torque wrench. What can become iffy are things like rod bolts that are sometimes below 50ft-lb so 3/8" torque wrench is advisable there. Bolting on an alternator or valve cover you just use common sense and usually that is ok.

 

[Formattc]

OK, so this subject is about as clear as the Missouri River when researching it...
Just to be clear, Valvoline Synthetic is MS-6395 approved? I actually used it about 20 years ago but switched to Mobil 1 because of availability, M1 was just available in a lot more places back then. This issue has been solved by the internet. Valvoline Synthetic is still a very highly rated oil and I'd be happy if this is my alternative.

 

[CarbonSteel]

OK, so this subject is about as clear as the Missouri River when researching it...
Just to be clear, Valvoline Synthetic is MS-6395 approved? I actually used it about 20 years ago but switched to Mobil 1 because of availability, M1 was just available in a lot more places back then. This issue has been solved by the internet. Valvoline Synthetic is still a very highly rated oil and I'd be happy if this is my alternative.

Valvoline is MS-6395 certified:

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...2d889bd3/3aa410a1-0bbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

 

[Cbacon]

Here is my documentation....

My dealership sells premium Mobil 1 oil changes, so it would be hard for a warranty claim to be denied over MS 6395. Besides, a court case would quicky determine that the oil exceeds that easy spec, anyway. I've run mostly Mobil 1 in mine, with 1 run of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and it is now on Shell Rotella Gas Truck. I'll mostly run Mobil 1 throughout the life of the vehicle. It has a lifetime warranty.

I love Blackstones comments. Been using them for motorcycles and my truck. Just did the first oil change in the Jeep with amsoil. Will probably leave it in there for a year/10,000 miles and see what they say. I didn't see your TBN number. Do they not include it anymore?

 

[DanW]

I love Blackstones comments. Been using them for motorcycles and my truck. Just did the first oil change in the Jeep with amsoil. Will probably leave it in there for a year/10,000 miles and see what they say. I didn't see your TBN number. Do they not include it anymore?

I have to correct the photo. I cut off some data. I didn't get TBN this time. It is 10 bucks extra.

I agree. Love the candor and down to earth nature.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Well damn, I guess I should probably go with the 3/8" if I'm only picking one, I think it would be generally more useful.
I looked up the lug nut torque value though and it shows 130 ft/lbs! This is one place I'll have deviate from the manual, I am not torquing my lug nuts to 130 lbs. The 3/8" torque wrench tops out at 80 ft/lbs but I guess I could just turn it up all the way and then go just a little bit further once it clicks.

You'll use a 1/2" 50-150 lb/in torque wrench many times more than a 3/8" 10-80 lb/in torque wrench, if you're doing common modifcation or maintenance work on your Jeep chassis.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Just a data point on warranty for engine failures and oil: over on the GT350 forum a couple years ago, there was a growing number of engine failures involving cylinder/piston issues. Of all the testimonials, not one was questioned by the dealer, or asked to show proof of oil change intervals or specifications of the oil used. And like most Jeepers, GT350 people are DIY people.

 

[word302]

Thanks guys, but I really don't want to buy two torque wrenches if I can avoid it, I've had a few and they were all ½" drive. The one I'm looking at says it does 10-150 ft/lbs:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MP1Q3W8/

While it says it goes down to 10lbs there's no way it measures that low accurately.

 

[word302]

Well damn, I guess I should probably go with the 3/8" if I'm only picking one, I think it would be generally more useful.
I looked up the lug nut torque value though and it shows 130 ft/lbs! This is one place I'll have deviate from the manual, I am not torquing my lug nuts to 130 lbs. The 3/8" torque wrench tops out at 80 ft/lbs but I guess I could just turn it up all the way and then go just a little bit further once it clicks.

Torquing the lug nuts to 130 ft/lbs is way more important than getting the filter housing to 18 ft/lbs. If you're going to be doing a bunch of wrenching on your rig just get both. You'll ruin a 3/8" drive torque wrench trying to tighten your lug nuts.

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