Performing Own Oil Changes

[Formattc]

I want to perform my own oil changes on my 2020 Rubicon 3.6 because quite simply, I don't trust dealership service departments. I'm doing at least two early debris removal changes in order to remove any metal flake from engine break-in. The understanding I've reached by reading here and other places is that doing one's own oil changes does not affect the warranty but the receipts must be kept and the service logged on the Jeep website. What say you, is this correct?
Also, I've been using Mobil 1 for decades but because of a petty corporate squabble unrelated to the oil itself, it is no longer MS-6395 certified. How important is it to use an oil that is MS-6395 certified? I don't want them to weasel out of the warranty if I have an engine issue down the road, but I also really don't want to use Pennzoil, and that seems like the direction in which FCA is pushing owners.

Thanks!

Matt C.

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[rallydefault]

Yea, keep your receipts for sure.

Why don't you trust dealership service departments? Did something happen to you?

 

[CarbonSteel]

MS-6395 is one of the easiest specifications to meet and I daresay every single synthetic on the market has the ability to meet it though most have not tried to be certified.

On top of that the 3.6L is not hard on oil save for perhaps some fuel dilution. Choose any 0W-20 you like and the engine will be fine.

Be careful when tightening the oil filter housing because they have been known to leak from cracking.

 

[Formattc]

Yea, keep your receipts for sure.

Why don't you trust dealership service departments? Did something happen to you?

Yes, I was lied to multiple times by a Chevy dealership regarding my old Blazer, they gambled on my being a naive' owner who didn't what was up and lost that bet. Plus there are just the countless horror stories I've read here and elsewhere. Their tendency to fill the 3.6 with six quarts of oil is enough for me to know that I don't want them doing it. Besides, I'd just have to trust them as to which oil they put in it whereas when I do it I know with certainty which oil is in it. I bought my old 2000 Blazer brand new and performed every single oil change myself, it just gives me peace of mind in knowing it's done right with the proper oil.

MS-6395 is one of the easiest specifications to meet and I daresay every single synthetic on the market has the ability to meet it though most have not tried to be certified.

On top of that the 3.6L is not hard on oil save for perhaps some fuel dilution. Choose any 0W-20 you like and the engine will be fine.

Be careful when tightening the oil filter housing because they have been known to leak from cracking.

Thanks man! The main concern here is keeping the warranty in force and I've read that as long as receipts are saved and/or it's logged on the Jeep website then doing my own oil changes won't affect the drivetrain warranty.

 

[DanW]

Here is my documentation....

My dealership sells premium Mobil 1 oil changes, so it would be hard for a warranty claim to be denied over MS 6395. Besides, a court case would quicky determine that the oil exceeds that easy spec, anyway. I've run mostly Mobil 1 in mine, with 1 run of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and it is now on Shell Rotella Gas Truck. I'll mostly run Mobil 1 throughout the life of the vehicle. It has a lifetime warranty.

 

[D60]

Yeah, PP (Pennzoil Platinum) is good stuff, I wouldn't be afraid of it.

Some here said it was ludicrous but for giggles I bought a cheap digi video recorder and record each change for warranty purposes. I don't disagree that it's overkill, but I'm kinda having fun with it (shrug)....the only problem is I'm pretty sure the camera isn't able to show the mileage on the dash display...I mean it just looks blurry.

I lean toward longer OCI's so I'll probably only do 7 to 8 oil changes before the warranty is up.

 

[txj2go]

I know of at least one situation where a drain plug was not tightened and this destroyed an engine.

I won't put up with the BS at the dealers while you wait for an oil change, and I won't sit there and wait either. I've heard horror stories of them trying to sell additional services to the owner while they are there for an oil change. After all "you don't want your tires to wear out too fast because they're out of balance", and "you need to have your transmission fluid changed every 12,000 miles". These are both things that I have witnessed or heard accurate eye-witness stories of.

 

[Strommen95]

While Mobil1 would be just fine I do think you should use an MS-6395 certified oil to avoid any potential bullshit in the event you have engine warranty issues. Keep the receipts when you buy oil/filters as documentation. Valvoline is MS-6395 certified if you don't want to use Pennzoil.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Be careful when tightening the oil filter housing because they have been known to leak from cracking.

Good point.

Torque to 18lbs, per manual. First tine I used my torque wrench for this task I was surprised how “loose” 18lbs feels.

 

[txj2go]

Torque to 18lbs, per manual. First tine I used my torque wrench for this task I was surprised how “loose” 18lbs feels.

That's not much torque, and some wrenches won't even accurately measure down that low.

 

[m3reno]

Why don't you like Penzoil Platninum?

 

[nerubi]

10-90J2.

 

[Formattc]

Be careful when tightening the oil filter housing because they have been known to leak from cracking.

Good point.

Torque to 18lbs, per manual. First tine I used my torque wrench for this task I was surprised how “loose” 18lbs feels.

Thanks guys, I was wondering about that, with that o-ring and all. This is my first engine with a cartridge filter, never dealt with that before. I had a torque wrench but it disappeared and I planned on replacing it, and I guess that time has come. I also have the all black factory wheels and I'm getting ready to order black lug nuts as well, so the torque wrench will come in handy there too.

On a side note, the manual says they recommend a Mopar oil filter but any "high quality" filter is acceptable, so I'm going with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SHG8D6J/

 

[CarbonSteel]

Thanks guys, I was wondering about that, with that o-ring and all. This is my first engine with a cartridge filter, never dealt with that before. I had a torque wrench but it disappeared and I planned on replacing it, and I guess that time has come. I also have the all black factory wheels and I'm getting ready to order black lug nuts as well, so the torque wrench will come in handy there too.

On a side note, the manual says they recommend a Mopar oil filter but any "high quality" filter is acceptable, so I'm going with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SHG8D6J/

Do your wallet and your Jeep a favor and by this one instead:

https://www.amazon.com/nobrandname-...automotive&sprefix=xg11,automotive,171&sr=1-1

Note that you are going to need a 3/8" drive torque wrench have a torque range low enough to torque the oil filter cap and a 1/2" drive torque wrench to have a range high enough to torque the lug nuts.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Thanks guys, I was wondering about that, with that o-ring and all. This is my first engine with a cartridge filter, never dealt with that before. I had a torque wrench but it disappeared and I planned on replacing it, and I guess that time has come. I also have the all black factory wheels and I'm getting ready to order black lug nuts as well, so the torque wrench will come in handy there too.

On a side note, the manual says they recommend a Mopar oil filter but any "high quality" filter is acceptable, so I'm going with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SHG8D6J/

Tekton makes very affordable and good quality tools, torque wrenches included. You would need the 3/8 one for this... 1/2 too beefy to register a measly 18lbs. Or just hand tighten. “Tight is tight, too tight is broken.”

Also, please learn from my mistake so you don’t repeat it: Oil filter o-ring placement matters

I also use these on all my vehicles. They’re great... maybe not a good idea if you rock crawl with no skid plate/armor protecting your drain valve area, but otherwise no worries! Fumoto F106 M14-1.5 Drain Valve for the Wrangler JL

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