One Tons

[Rangemaster]

Ok, I have been reading a lot about this upgrade. Been kicking this around for more then a year now. What is the best tons that are simply bolt on installation that do not require any mods. Keep in mind, I do all my work myself. I have really been thinking of this upgrade for a year now. My plan is tons with 38’s on my diesel with 4.10’s. Let me know the pros and cons. Thanks.

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[TX_Ovrlnd]

Watching your build progress, I knew it was only a matter of time!

Cons: the wallet is going to walk with a limp for a while

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

Do you want to keep your wheels? I added the Fusion semi-float to my rear. It was a direct bolt in. You'll have to remove your parking brake assembly and transfer it over to your new axle though.
I will most likely run with this setup until I break something and go full floats that will require new wheels. Just my $.02.

 

[72Blazer]

You do all your work on your own and have been researching (to what extent I don’t know) but are planning to gear it at 4.10s? Let that fawking thing eat, I’d go to 4.88s. Again with research or having it in mind, you haven’t narrowed down your choices? Is money a concern since you’re saving on labor? What’s your budget? Ford 60/ Sterling combo an option? Locker system? Is your suspension set up already dialed in, if not you’ll need some adjustments for the added weight.


If it was me, I’d just go Dynatrac. But I’m a poor bastard so I’d just go the Ford 60 route. But again I’m delusion so I’m going to build my stock Rubicon axles as best as I can and stick to 38s.

 

[1996cc]

“Best” is subjective. In my opinion the best is Fusion. I just ordered their 60/13 bolt combo.

 

[Some Random Guy]

I think if you’re going tons a full float is the way to go. But that requires new wheels, and driveshafts.
If you want to stay bolt on I think UD44 and semi-float rear 60 with upgraded rear driveshaft is the concept to go with. I’m biased though, I’m halfway there.

 

[word302]

I think if you’re going tons a full float is the way to go. But that requires new wheels, and driveshafts.
If you want to stay bolt on I think UD44 and semi-float rear 60 with upgraded rear driveshaft is the concept to go with. I’m biased though, I’m halfway there.

Yeah it’s kinda silly to spend the money and not end up with full-floating axles. I guess that’s just me though.

 

[Rangemaster]

I think if you’re going tons a full float is the way to go. But that requires new wheels, and driveshafts.
If you want to stay bolt on I think UD44 and semi-float rear 60 with upgraded rear driveshaft is the concept to go with. I’m biased though, I’m halfway there.

Right, already know it will require new wheels, and driveshafts. I was thinking about saving up for these to buy during black friday events.

 

[Rangemaster]

Watching your build progress, I knew it was only a matter of time!

Cons: the wallet is going to walk with a limp for a while

Yep, the wallet already has a slight limp with a drag of the foot.

 

[Mx5red]

Limited first-hand knowledge but serious question, for what you’re doing is it worth doing anything above like a Prorock44? Seem way stronger than stock and like an older generation 60.

 

[TX_Ovrlnd]

Yep, the wallet already has a slight limp with a drag of the foot.

Well this is outside my zone, but there are Dynatrac complete axles that appear to have all the stuff needed to direct swap. I don't see any in 4.10 though, only 4.88, AEV uses what 4.56 or 4.6 something in their full kit. May not be awful at 4.88. Any way you look at it, it's about $20k to get into those.

 

[1996cc]

In case you need some extra motivation, I helped a friend slide hammer his busted shaft out of his carrier today. Diesel, factory axle and locker, 4.56 gears, Artec truss, Dana chromoly shafts, 37” tires.

 

[WontonJLUR]

If your end goal is to run 38s, I wouldn't say you need one tons. If you've gotta have em for the sake of having em, more power to you. Tons of members run 37s/38s/39s on their factory D44s and for the most part, have been issue free. As with anything, you'll find those with problems, but the majority haven't had many issues. My Jeep was wheeled hard on 37s for 2 years and 30k miles, and then we put on 39 BFG KM3s for the last 2 years/20k miles.

As to the question of who is "best", you won't find an objective answer. There is at least one member with a set of tons from each different manufacturer, and their threads/reviews are buried somewhere on the forum. Most any set of crate axles that you buy will be bolt in with little to no extra effort. That said, as others have mentioned, you'll need 8 lug wheels if you go full float (you should), new driveshafts, hydro assist if you go 40+ tires (which is why most go with one tons), and of course the new tires of your choice.

FWIW, I went with the KP60/Shaved 13 bolt Fusion4x4 to support the 42" tires I'll be running. They just showed up on Tuesday, and I ordered them on January 15th. Dan from Fusion was great to work with and answered all my questions and made suggestions based on intentions and I am really excited to get the install done.

 

[XtremeRetard]

“Best” is subjective. In my opinion the best is Fusion. I just ordered their 60/13 bolt combo.

Exactly what I'm looking at. Shaved 14. they said they have their own case coming soon with clearance built in like shaved option.

Dstrac has some good prices, but once you add the options in they are only $1k or so less than fusion and their customer support feedback sucks somewhat.. Hence me looking at fusion instead..

 

[Rangemaster]

In case you need some extra motivation, I helped a friend slide hammer his busted shaft out of his carrier today. Diesel, factory axle and locker, 4.56 gears, Artec truss, Dana chromoly shafts, 37” tires.

Damn, that must have been some serious wheel hop going on.

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