OEM Battery Replacement

[WranglerMan]

What is your set up? Can i see? Pleasseee haha

Dual Full River 750-25’s

Noco 10 for the quick weekly top off

Odyssey 20 for the monthly recondition, I like the Odyssey for this as it has a deep condition cycle and it holds the voltage at 14.5 for several hours.

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[merciles]

My 2018 JLUR sat in my temp controlled shop for about 3 weeks and I hadn't considered putting a charger or maintainer on it for that time. When I wanted to use it, a week ago, it wouldn't start. Put in on a CTEK charger and left it overnight. Next day it didnt show fully charged still, but started up fine and ran normally.

So I drove it to the airport, gone 4 days, got in at 11pm, it was cold, Jeep wouldn't start. Put a NOCO Genius jump starter on it, that I was glad I had in the back, let it set for a minute and it started up and got me back to my shop.

Went to the dealership with it as it still has 3 months original warranty, they tested both batteries and the main battery tested bad. The OEM replacements are on backorder so he told me they could put an aftermarket battery in it and to bring it back in when the OEMs were in stock and they would replace it.

Picked it up yesterday and they had put an AC Delco Professional 94RAGM battery in it, 850 CCA.

That's probably a much better battery than it came with?

I've been really lucky with this dealers service department. They've always taken good care of the Jeep with any problems I've brought it in for.

Called them today and told him just to close the case, I'm good with this battery.

 

[Gee-pah]

Once the warranty period is over, for those not looking to change the factory setup (e.g. Genesis or some derivation of Jerry's hacks @Jebiruph) please give me a reason why I should not have a spare main and ESS/Aux battery on my shop shelf.

 

[Punk'n2doorsport]

I am working on one now actually--it's intent being to charge the batteries under the hood and a dedicated battery I have in the cargo area that I'm going to use to run a dash camera in parking mode from a solar panel when the engine is off, and the alternator when the engine is on. My panel though is on a roof rack, not the hood.

The kits you see are great https://www.cascadia4x4.com/ . If you're looking to save $ and have limited needs you can always acquire the smaller 30 amp kit that's designed for the Rubi hood (with less contiguous smooth surface) even if you have a non Rubi hood that would accept the 80 watt model.

Lensun https://www.lensunsolar.com/Flexible-solar-panel/Black-flexible-solar-panel is another outfit that makes hood adaptable solar panels but I think their off the shelf offerings are only rectangular. (They do customizations.) There is about a 16 7/8" gap on the hood between the windshield washer/windshield tie down pieces (WWWTP) on all JL/JT hoods, so make sure any panel you buy that isn't dedicated to fit a JL (like the larger Cascadia one with cutouts for the WWWTP this IS dedicated to non Rubi (JT Rubi too)) is narrow enough.

The length I think is around 30" max.

When I finish mine (tomorrow hopefully) and test it out I'll post the build.

LSS, a bit off topic, and more of this if I writeup my success, I'm of the opinion that batteries in the cabin best not be the same type as the lead acid variety under the hood (i.e. AGM) for safety reasons (off gassing and fire) and chose a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery for the interior. These LiFePO4 batteries are IMHO awesome, if not cheap in amp adjusted terms, given the number of charges/discharges they can cycle and their resistance to voltage drops with temperature.

Some may think that's overly cautious. I respect that.

They do though have one serious limitation in requiring above freezing temperature charging--a limitation I overcame with $, in purchasing just such a battery with a built in heater.

More to come.

The AGM that i use can accept up to 500 Cycles at 50% for 900 Cycles at 80% it is completely sealed you will not Shake, rattle or anything will come loose
it completely marine application so it's meant to be abused like you do in an Overlander I currently haven't had any issues the only issues I might have had come from my dc-to-dc charger and me not knowing what I'm doing which I should have sorted out now.
Im looking for a 12V battery heater then im golden.
Also ill be running the non rubi 80 watt panel for hood, then when i get a hard top ill have 100watt for house

 

[Kreepin1]

Once the warranty period is over, for those not looking to change the factory setup (e.g. Genesis or some derivation of Jerry's hacks @Jebiruph) please give me a reason why I should not have a spare main and ESS/Aux battery on my shop shelf.

Because all batteries have a shelf life. So the time they spend sitting there on a trickle charger is still shortening their life when you finally install them in the Jeep.

 

[WranglerMan]

Because all batteries have a shelf life. So the time they spend sitting there on a trickle charger is still shortening their life when you finally install them in the Jeep.

I would think as long as the battery is kept on some type of high quality battery maintainer/charger one could keep a battery on the shelf for a long period of time.

When i went to my new dual system I kept zero parts from the original setup......so my spare is kinda on a shelf as it sits right next to the main crank battery waiting to be used.

I actually never in all my years gave battery upkeep much thought but it seems these newer vehicle command we do so now by actively monitoring and charging what we have.

 

[Punk'n2doorsport]

Dual Full River 750-25’s

Noco 10 for the quick weekly top off

Odyssey 20 for the monthly recondition, I like the Odyssey for this as it has a deep condition cycle and it holds the voltage at 14.5 for several hours.

Did full river make the dual battery charger or was that home made or genesis?

 

[WranglerMan]

Did full river make the dual battery charger or was that home made or genesis?

Both the NOCO 10 and Odyssey 20 amp chargers will charge a single or dual battery setup, on the stock JL setup both the main crank battery and ESS battery are connected as one when your JL is parked so when you use the charger of your choice connected to the +/- main crank battery you are effectively charging both the main and ESS batteries.

On my particular setup the batteries have a smart isolator that keeps them connected as one battery 99% of the time utilizing a electromagnet solenoid that stays energized and once the main crank battery drops to 12.7 +/-.1 the smart isolator automatically disconnects the two batteries so you main crank never drops below 12.7 while using things connected to the aux like winch, air compressor etc...

Once the JL is started after the isolator sees 13.2 for several minutes it closes the relay again and the batteries again are seen as one.

i hope this answers your question

 

[Gee-pah]

Because all batteries have a shelf life. So the time they spend sitting there on a trickle charger is still shortening their life when you finally install them in the Jeep.

Kirk: question from ignorance.

Is purchasing of backup batteries and putting them on a shelf in my basement for potential long term (months) storage until needed a bad idea unless they are connected to a trickle charger?

Thanks.

 

[Gee-pah]

The AGM that i use can accept up to 500 Cycles at 50% for 900 Cycles at 80% it is completely sealed you will not Shake, rattle or anything will come loose
it completely marine application so it's meant to be abused like you do in an Overlander I currently haven't had any issues the only issues I might have had come from my dc-to-dc charger and me not knowing what I'm doing which I should have sorted out now.
Im looking for a 12V battery heater then im golden.
Also ill be running the non rubi 80 watt panel for hood, then when i get a hard top ill have 100watt for house

Sounds good. In case you have to much money and don't know what to do with it , seeing as your mentioned battery warming, here is the product series of batteries I was talking about with a built in heater.

https://relionbattery.com/low-temperature-series-line

 

[Punk'n2doorsport]

Both the NOCO 10 and Odyssey 20 amp chargers will charge a single or dual battery setup, on the stock JL setup both the main crank battery and ESS battery are connected as one when your JL is parked so when you use the charger of your choice connected to the +/- main crank battery you are effectively charging both the main and ESS batteries.

On my particular setup the batteries have a smart isolator that keeps them connected as one battery 99% of the time utilizing a electromagnet solenoid that stays energized and once the main crank battery drops to 12.7 +/-.1 the smart isolator automatically disconnects the two batteries so you main crank never drops below 12.7 while using things connected to the aux like winch, air compressor etc...

Once the JL is started after the isolator sees 13.2 for several minutes it closes the relay again and the batteries again are seen as one.

i hope this answers your question

I meant like the actual dual set up in your jeep, sorry for the confusion, like did you wire up the smart soloniod and all that your self or was it a kit?

 

[Punk'n2doorsport]

Sounds good. In case you have to much money and don't know what to do with it , seeing as your mentioned battery warming, here is the product series of batteries I was talking about with a built in heater.

https://relionbattery.com/low-temperature-series-line

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002UNASS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_8kp7Fb6BVC5A8

LOL i spent money on my batteries but not that kinda money hollyyyy shit haha

 

[WranglerMan]

I meant like the actual dual set up in your jeep, sorry for the confusion, like did you wire up the smart soloniod and all that your self or was it a kit?

Oh no worries.....I got it as a kit and had the local Offroad shop here in Houston do the install. It’s supposedly not hard to install but I personally was not comfortable removing the PDC.

Its not an inexpensive setup once you add good quality AGM batteries in, you can get less expensive on batteries but I chose Full River....If I had to do over I would have likely went with Odyssey as the small increase in cost yielded a slightly better battery but my main reason was to have all the aux add ons connected to the full size aux battery plus just having two full size 64 ah batteries that are identical and charge the same makes it simple plus the dual system I’m running has a boost button so say you leave lights on in your JL or similar and pull the main battery down and your Jeep won’t start you just push the boost button and it will connect the main and aux for about a minute so you can start your Jeep and be on your way but this is providing the aux has sufficient power and it should.

My system has been installed for a few months and just recently I was listening to some music and had some lights in and sucked the main down and it would not start I was like WTF... anyway I popped the hood and pushed the boost button and after I heard the click of the solenoid I jumped in the jeep and it fired right up and down the road i went and this one time event justified the cost to me as I was out and away from anyone to get a jump start.

I will say my JL seems electrically more satisfied with the additional power, maybe it’s a placebo affect on my part to justify the cost but it cranks up easier and just seems to run better

Heres the info

https://www.genesisoffroad.com/jl-dual-battery-kit

 

[Punk'n2doorsport]

Oh no worries.....I got it as a kit and had the local Offroad shop here in Houston do the install. It’s supposedly not hard to install but I personally was not comfortable removing the PDC.

Its not an inexpensive setup once you add good quality AGM batteries in, you can get less expensive on batteries but I chose Full River....If I had to do over I would have likely went with Odyssey as the small increase in cost yielded a slightly better battery but my main reason was to have all the aux add ons connected to the full size aux battery plus just having two full size 64 ah batteries that are identical and charge the same makes it simple plus the dual system I’m running has a boost button so say you leave lights on in your JL or similar and pull the main battery down and your Jeep won’t start you just push the boost button and it will connect the main and aux for about a minute so you can start your Jeep and be on your way but this is providing the aux has sufficient power and it should.

My system has been installed for a few months and just recently I was listening to some music and had some lights in and sucked the main down and it would not start I was like WTF... anyway I popped the hood and pushed the boost button and after I heard the click of the solenoid I jumped in the jeep and it fired right up and down the road i went and this one time event justified the cost to me as I was out and away from anyone to get a jump start.

I will say my JL seems electrically more satisfied with the additional power, maybe it’s a placebo affect on my part to justify the cost but it cranks up easier and just seems to run better

Heres the info

https://www.genesisoffroad.com/jl-dual-battery-kit

Im having a hard time justifying the cost of that set up due to me having my big battery in the back already and im trying to not go overkill on power haha, i currently have a triple battery set up, crank/agm/trailer battery.

I have 32AH in my trailer to run desiel heater and a few 12V sockets, but my DC-DC is giving me shit and im not happy about it

 

[Gee-pah]

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002UNASS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_8kp7Fb6BVC5A8

LOL i spent money on my batteries but not that kinda money hollyyyy shit haha

Yeah....my goal was to run a 4.5W dash camera, which I was able to do with a 20 amp/hour one of these.....still a fortune on an amp hour comparative basis, but much cheaper than the larger ones that you might be interested in.

The thing is that Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are awesome but for the one limitation of not charging them below freezing or risk ruining them. The can be charge cycled so much more than lead acid ones, don't off gas, experience limited voltage drop with temperature, and are super safe.

I considered that very warmer you linked. Then I said to myself that it would be better if I let the battery's BMS (battery monitoring system) figure out how much to first allow itself to warm up with the charging source's current, before beginning to charge it. But yeah, shopping for your amp hour needs, no way could I afford these batteries either.

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