Need some suspension advice

[TheBirdie72]

I’ve never used Mammoth brand parts so I couldn’t say. But adjustable control arms are pretty simple, standard parts - basically just a couple of steel connector bars with a bolt adjustable bracket in the middle to allow for length adjustment. This is why I went RC on these specifically.

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[DeBen21JL]

What about adding the mopar lower control arms that come with the mopar lift? I have the RC spacers on my Rubicon and haven't had any steering issues.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...8aa-front-lower-control-arms-last-week.92709/

the Mopar control arms are only like 24.25 inches supposedly that would only get me a caster barely over 5.

 

[jeepingib]

the Mopar control arms are only like 24.25 inches supposedly that would only get me a caster barely over 5.

They are a bit shorter than most. But very cheap, and better than stock arms, so they are popular.

I can't really say what difference between the cheaper brands there is. You have already figured out that you should get longer lower control arms and an adjustable trackbar at the minimum to be able to correct the suspension geometry. The other way to do it is similar to the AEV kit that was mentioned. A control arm drop bracket will bring the arms closer to the factory angles as well. The downside for a Jeep is that it gets in the way some off road, but if you aren't interested in that then you might consider it. I think RC even sells a version. Again, I'm not recommending them, they have a poor reputation, but if that's what you are going with because of the installer, then the drop bracket might be cheaper and easier to add to what you have vs swapping things out.

 

[TCogs1]

What about adding the mopar lower control arms that come with the mopar lift? I have the RC spacers on my Rubicon and haven't had any steering issues.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...8aa-front-lower-control-arms-last-week.92709/

Don’t do that, mopar kits are junk…. Been there done that… evo LCA, Teraflex springs shocks and steering stab, 5 degrees camber, 1-2 degrees toe and problem solved.

 

[AdamG]

Did you do any of the things suggested to you in your other thread? Throwing parts at it in an attempt to fixing an issue without knowing where it’s coming from, that’s a risky strategy that may result in 1) money down the drain and 2) the same issue hanging around.

 

[DeBen21JL]

Did you do any of the things suggested to you in your other thread? Throwing parts at it in an attempt to fixing an issue without knowing where it’s coming from, that’s a risky strategy that may result in 1) money down the drain and 2) the same issue hanging around.

i’ve taken it to three different alignment shops and all of them said three different things but only one of them made sense to me. They said with a 2 1/2 inch lift that would shift my axle off by somewhere between a half and 3/4 of an inch and that could be cause for the pull to the right. They also said that my caster being in the 4s is nowhere near enough caster to keep it straight on the highway and should do either a Geometry bracket for the front end or longer control arms or both as well as a bracket for the rear or a track bar. That’s the direction I think I’m leaning.

 

[ym0bc1]

i’ve taken it to three different alignment shops and all of them said three different things but only one of them made sense to me. They said with a 2 1/2 inch lift that would shift my axle off by somewhere between a half and 3/4 of an inch and that could be cause for the pull to the right. They also said that my caster being in the 4s is nowhere near enough caster to keep it straight on the highway and should do either a Geometry bracket for the front end or longer control arms or both as well as a bracket for the rear or a track bar. That’s the direction I think I’m leaning.

You don't need to go to an alignment shop for the alignment measured. Just take an angle finder and measure the differential expander hole. It's a flat surface and has a 6 degree offset with caster. 30 seconds work.

I'd suggest get all adjustable control arms: front upper/lower, rear upper/lower, and front/rear track bar and set everything in good position. It costs some money but it's definitely worth it in the long run. Going with the cheap solution will end up buying twice, from my own experience.

 

[GATORB8]

i’ve taken it to three different alignment shops and all of them said three different things but only one of them made sense to me. They said with a 2 1/2 inch lift that would shift my axle off by somewhere between a half and 3/4 of an inch and that could be cause for the pull to the right. They also said that my caster being in the 4s is nowhere near enough caster to keep it straight on the highway and should do either a Geometry bracket for the front end or longer control arms or both as well as a bracket for the rear or a track bar. That’s the direction I think I’m leaning.

Geometry correction brackets are a pretty good option for your use case.

I wouldn't touch the RC ones since they are loose plate. JKS appears to be the best value option in this case. JKS is a solid manufacturer and is a part of the Fox Shocks family.

If you want to use a rear bracket, looks like Teraflex takes the bag.

I've used the RC track bars and they aren't awful. Personally I'd step up to Steersmarts, but RC is reasonable in this use case.

 

[DeBen21JL]

Geometry correction brackets are a pretty good option for your use case.

I wouldn't touch the RC ones since they are loose plate. JKS appears to be the best value option in this case. JKS is a solid manufacturer and is a part of the Fox Shocks family.

If you want to use a rear bracket, looks like Teraflex takes the bag.

I've used the RC track bars and they aren't awful. Personally I'd step up to Steersmarts, but RC is reasonable in this use case.

That’s awesome feedback, thank you. Would you recommend adjustable control arms, or just the geometry bracket?

 

[GATORB8]

That’s awesome feedback, thank you. Would you recommend adjustable control arms, or just the geometry bracket?

May as well run the stockers if you aren't worried about hitting them with rocks or massive flex. The stock bushings are probably best for NVH.

That does make me wonder something. A correct installation of your lift should have included loosening the control arm and track bar bushings and retorquing them at the new ride height.

The stock bushings are adhered in place, so they don't rotate freely. Not loosening them and resetting them puts them in a bind at the new height. Not sure its enough to cause some pull, but could be an impact.

I'd assume they loosened them, for ease of install if nothing else, but you know what they say about assuming.

 

[Pig-Pen]

That’s awesome feedback, thank you. Would you recommend adjustable control arms, or just the geometry bracket?

geometry brackets for sure. Especially if just mall crawling. They truly correct the castor.
those brackets and front adjustable track bar and then see how it is. I think youll be good with just that.

 

[DeBen21JL]

May as well run the stockers if you aren't worried about hitting them with rocks or massive flex. The stock bushings are probably best for NVH.

That does make me wonder something. A correct installation of your lift should have included loosening the control arm and track bar bushings and retorquing them at the new ride height.

The stock bushings are adhered in place, so they don't rotate freely. Not loosening them and resetting them puts them in a bind at the new height. Not sure its enough to cause some pull, but could be an impact.

I'd assume they loosened them, for ease of install if nothing else, but you know what they say about assuming.

Thanks, i did call to make sure that they torqued it all off the rack, I got the whole “we know what we are doing” vibe. So basically they know now they should have if they didn’t.

 

[DeBen21JL]

geometry brackets for sure. Especially if just mall crawling. They truly correct the castor.
those brackets and front adjustable track bar and then see how it is. I think youll be good with just that.
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Ok, so front geo brackets adjustable track bar in front and a track bar bracket in the back?

 

[GATORB8]

Thanks, i did call to make sure that they torqued it all off the rack, I got the whole “we know what we are doing” vibe. So basically they know now they should have if they didn’t.

Ha, hopefully.

None of my stuff is stock, I don't think the stock CA bolts were torque painted, anyone remember?

 

[Pig-Pen]

you can do the bracket in the rear. You can also wait to see if you it. Measure the rear axle to see how far off it is.

are you able to install yourself? Would save a bunch of $ and be sure its done right

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