Need advice for winch setup / wiring

[xj2jk2jlu]

Hello Everyone,

I have a few questions about this winch. It’s a Warn Zeon 10 which has a steel cable. I was talking to a few guys, supposedly very knowledgeable, about installing a synthetic rope. The winch calls for a 3/8“ 85’, I think, but they said to go with 50’ because the longer the line is the more strength or lbs. it degrades. Also, because in the NE, where we are, you’re probably only 20-30 feet away from what you’re recovering and can always add an extension.

Also, they suggest a solenoid to place in between the winch and the battery to reduce risk of fire for short. Can someone explain this?

If I decided to use my existing steel cable, can it be used with a cast iron fairlead? Or do I need to use the steel roller it came with?

Thanks in advance!

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[UTME]

I used the warn solenoid so the winch is not powered until ready to use it. This is recommended as a safety measure so if you get in a wreck it doesn’t short out and burn up. Mine is connected to an aux switch. Others just have a switch somewhere.

 

[Reinen]

Also, they suggest a solenoid to place in between the winch and the battery to reduce risk of fire for short. Can someone explain this?

The winch requires thick high capacity cables direct to the battery. The solenoid is a simple relay switch that cuts power to these cables near the battery when the winch is not in use (which is the vast majority of the time).

The idea is if the cables are not routed securely they can chafe against metal, wear through the insulation and cause a short. If you don't have a solenoid the cables will always be powered. The short will likely occur while you are driving and you will not have a way to quickly stop the short. Likely resulting in a vehicle fire.

If you have a solenoid and this happens, the cables will be unpowered while you're driving so there won't be a short. When you turn on the solenoid to use the winch you will immediately notice the short and you will already have a finger on the solenoid switch to immediately cut power. Likely avoiding a vehicle fire.

The other situation is a front end collision that damages or severs the cables. With a solenoid, the cables won't be powered and there won't be a short. Without a solenoid, you now have a severe electrical fire on top of crashing into something.

You will see people here saying that they haven't used a solenoid on their winch for years and never had a problem. Well, I'm sure that's true. Until it's not and you have a very bad day.

 

[YBABRAT]

My thread Project Overkill is on a winch install. It may take some reading through but it will give ideas and some insight.

 

[jadmt]

Hello Everyone,

I have a few questions about this winch. It’s a Warn Zeon 10 which has a steel cable. I was talking to a few guys, supposedly very knowledgeable, about installing a synthetic rope. The winch calls for a 3/8“ 85’, I think, but they said to go with 50’ because the longer the line is the more strength or lbs. it degrades. Also, because in the NE, where we are, you’re probably only 20-30 feet away from what you’re recovering and can always add an extension.

Also, they suggest a solenoid to place in between the winch and the battery to reduce risk of fire for short. Can someone explain this?

If I decided to use my existing steel cable, can it be used with a cast iron fairlead? Or do I need to use the steel roller it came with?

Thanks in advance!

I ran the shorter 50' warn synthetic line in the past and liked the shorter line simply for that reason and easier to get spooled in. On my last VR series with steel cable it came with the cast hawse fairlead not the roller fairlead and the only issue is once you use a cast fairlead with steel you can't switch it out to synthetic but other than that there is no problem. I was actually surprised how well it held up. I am in the camp straight to the battery..the factory winch option does not use a solenoid on either jeep or power wagon...Warn instructions say straight to the battery..

 

[Martial Fartist]

I can’t comment on the cable / synth swap but as others have stated the solenoid or switch is a good idea if only for peace of mind.

I opted for the warn solenoid. It’s wired to aux 4. Install was easy. I just had to fabricate a mounting bracket.

One thing I like about having the winch switched is that some random jackass can’t run my winch with their own cable or remote since the power is almost exclusively off.
Prolly doesn’t happen often but for me, just more peace of mind.

 

[3arl0fBruce]

@Martial Fartist you win the internet today, for best user name.

 

[WannFly]

A solenoid is in my list of things to do, now finding a place close to the battery to mount is whole 'nother story in a already overcrowded 4Xe which I have overcrowded even more with a lot of junk

 

[LAM]

A high current switch is a cheaper, less complicated solution,

If I had had a longer red lead to the battery I could have rotated and packed the switch into this space a bit better. To reduce chafing damage you can get the split plastic flex tubing to snap on the cables, even after installation.

 

[WannFly]

I am obsessed with Tesa tape, when I install something, all the wires are Tesa tapped, needed or not lol. that should help a little with chaffing as well. or not.

 

[beachbumm78]

The winch requires thick high capacity cables direct to the battery. The solenoid is a simple relay switch that cuts power to these cables near the battery when the winch is not in use (which is the vast majority of the time).

The idea is if the cables are not routed securely they can chafe against metal, wear through the insulation and cause a short. If you don't have a solenoid the cables will always be powered. The short will likely occur while you are driving and you will not have a way to quickly stop the short. Likely resulting in a vehicle fire.

If you have a solenoid and this happens, the cables will be unpowered while you're driving so there won't be a short. When you turn on the solenoid to use the winch you will immediately notice the short and you will already have a finger on the solenoid switch to immediately cut power. Likely avoiding a vehicle fire.

The other situation is a front end collision that damages or severs the cables. With a solenoid, the cables won't be powered and there won't be a short. Without a solenoid, you now have a severe electrical fire on top of crashing into something.

You will see people here saying that they haven't used a solenoid on their winch for years and never had a problem. Well, I'm sure that's true. Until it's not and you have a very bad day.

I actually met a jeeper a few years ago and she had that happen to her Jeep actually. Winch connected directly to battery, wiring shorted out they figure, and it caught fire and burnt her Jeep to a crisp.

 

[dapipp]

I will try to take your questions in order.

Fist let's talk about converting from steel rope to synthetic rope. You need to inspect your winch drum very carefully. Any bump, scratch, imperfection will need to be sanded down smoothly so nothing can snag your synthetic rope. Otherwise you can possibly shorten the life of your new synthetic rope.

As far as the amount of line, your buddies are correct that a 50' line will probably be more advantages based on where and how you wheel. Just keep in mind to always keep at least 5 wraps of line on your drum at a minimum when running out your line.

Here is a link to a Warn site that explains power loss.
https://www.warn.com/warn-winch-performance-specifications-pulling-capacity-by-layer

The use of a solenoid or switch is a better choice than running straight to the battery. Just make sure the solenoid or switch is rated high enough for your winch, the terminals are covered/protected. You should also know how to get around a solenoid or switch if they fail on the trail.

When it comes to fairleads there are not as many options, though tons of vendors, as you would think. While I have seen a cast iron fairlead for wire rope one should never be used for synthetic rope. The same goes for a steel roller fairlead, only for wire. Fairleads for synthetic rope are generally made out of aluminum, or some version of an aluminum alloy. The fairlead has the same issues as the drum. Any imperfections will potentially damage your synthetic rope.

So back to your last question if you stay with steel you should use a steel roller fairlead.

 

[LazyJL]

A few decades ago, I watched my uncle try to pull a tree stump with his Jeep’s winch’s steel cable.
The hook snapped off, and the cable came flying back at the Jeep, punching through the windshield and exiting through the rear window. It missed my uncle's head by inches.
Not wanting to die this way, I will never use a steel cable since they stretch under load. Synthetic line does not stretch the way steel does.

I use a solenoid to send power to the winch to prevent vandals from shorting the remote plug and powering up the winch. A hood lock prevents access to the solenoid.

 

[C.Sco]

I use a winch solenoid because my Winch 12V+ wire is routed between my steel bumper and grill, so a front end collision could easily result in a hot short.

This is the setup I did. Made this bracket out of aluminum L extrusion. Used a BadgeGlow aux board (just makes it easier to attach stuff to my Mopar aux buttons), and then ran the + and - control wires from the solenoid straight to that board, just using 16awg wire.

(ignore the circuit breaker on the right, that's unrelated to the winch)

 

[RudeJeepin]

Hello Everyone,

I have a few questions about this winch. It’s a Warn Zeon 10 which has a steel cable. I was talking to a few guys, supposedly very knowledgeable, about installing a synthetic rope. The winch calls for a 3/8“ 85’, I think, but they said to go with 50’ because the longer the line is the more strength or lbs. it degrades. Also, because in the NE, where we are, you’re probably only 20-30 feet away from what you’re recovering and can always add an extension.

Also, they suggest a solenoid to place in between the winch and the battery to reduce risk of fire for short. Can someone explain this?

If I decided to use my existing steel cable, can it be used with a cast iron fairlead? Or do I need to use the steel roller it came with?

Thanks in advance!

This past weekend I used my winch in the snow. My choice was a tree at 20ft but about 40degrees to the side or a tree almost straight ahead, but at 80 plus feet away.
I choose the closer, only needed to pull myself out of the holes I dug. So the angle wasn't really an issue.

Look close, that is an original Warn cast iron hawse fairlead from my old XD9000 winch. That bought before synthetic was even a thing. Back in the day Warn used to sell every winch with either a roller or hawse style fairlead. I passed the winch down to my boy, but kept the hawse fairlead. Bought a VR EVO 10, I liked the profile better for my JLURD that I originally put it on, before swapping it over to my Gladiator. I like the slim profile better. The tow hooks stick out the furthest and I like it that way.

As far as synthetic vs steel, or 50 vs 80ft, or the solenoid, I'll let that be for others to discuss.
But mine is 90ft of steel and no solenoid. Although, I do have a solenoid if I ever get around to adding it.

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