Mopar Tow Harness Install

[mergedown]

Hey @mergedown Jason:

First off, I want to thank for documenting all your efforts here. It's people like you, and YouTube videos that cover stuff like this that are the real trail blazers to make the installs of us followers easier.

Second, I want to say I've read through the entire thread making sure what I'm about to say wasn't covered. I thought I owed you that. If I'm wrong, and missed it: apologies.

Third, my interest in this project lies only with how wires are snaked from the engine compartment into the cabin. I neither have, nor have need for a 7 pin trailer harness. I installed my own 4 pin from etrailer. with a battery wire running under the rig with zip ties and that's fine for me: no need for brake controller circuitry at my end; not at least at this time.

All these caveats said, and I assure you I do NOT want to sound like a wise ass, having learned first from you (and maybe that's key here) I decided to take a wire hanger, enter the rig from the front passenger's seat, and shove it through that grommet, which is below the glove box, with no need to remove the glove box (not that that step is hard).

After pushing an inch or two on the hanger wire I got on my back outside the rig and behind the front passenger's tire. I pulled back the fender flare a bit, by no means disturbing the hardware that keeps it in place, looked up with a flashlight and saw the tip of my hanger.

I put a pair of plyers on it and pulled it further. Though I'm no mechanic, but dropping wires down connected to the battery or PDC, to the pavement below, will be straight forward, as will be taping those wires on to the hanger, and pulling the wires through to the inside of the cabin at the grommet.

I can't help but think that all the work with the fender flare and glove box is questionable, but it may be my ignorance that has no me not appreciating why the install calls for these steps. And it's definitely true that I had the beginner's luck of deciding to push the hanger out from the interior, rather than vice versa: which I think would have definitely required me to cut the hardware that keeps the fender flare in place.

Thoughts?

I think we all welcome improvements to the process. I did everything you suggest, except I did pull off the inner fender. A wire hangar is a must to get the wiring through that grommet! The Jeep Informer also has a video on how simple it is to remove the entire fender, and I would encourage that as a better option as well. I had no issues removing the plastic rivets and welcomed a new tool to reinstall them That said, I have a few other cars and figured I’d use it again someday, and it was cheap.

Hopefully people are reading through the entire thread as I’m sure others will continue to find easier ways than what I did/Mopar suggests.

Thanks for sharing.

Sponsored

 

[NavyVet1959]

All these caveats said, and I assure you I do NOT want to sound like a wise ass, having learned first from you (and maybe that's key here) I decided to take a wire hanger, enter the rig from the front passenger's seat, and shove it through that grommet, which is below the glove box, with no need to remove the glove box (not that that step is hard).

After pushing an inch or two on the hanger wire I got on my back outside the rig and behind the front passenger's tire. I pulled back the fender flare a bit, by no means disturbing the hardware that keeps it in place, looked up with a flashlight and saw the tip of my hanger.

I put a pair of plyers on it and pulled it further. Though I'm no mechanic, but dropping wires down connected to the battery or PDC, to the pavement below, will be straight forward, as will be taping those wires on to the hanger, and pulling the wires through to the inside of the cabin at the grommet.

I can't help but think that all the work with the fender flare and glove box is questionable, but it may be my ignorance that has no me not appreciating why the install calls for these steps. And it's definitely true that I had the beginner's luck of deciding to push the hanger out from the interior, rather than vice versa: which I think would have definitely required me to cut the hardware that keeps the fender flare in place.

Thoughts?

Looks like it might not be that difficult to take off the fender flare + liner in one operation:

 

[RussJeep1]

@NavyVet1959 : while that's good news for situations in which the fender flare needs to be disassembled, changes to the technique for passing these wires that obviate need to remove this part, or the larger assemblies it is a part of, I think, will always be the preferred solution to even the easiest of disassemblies.

Of course if my premise is wrong that having to take apart the fender flare is not necessary, this is welcome news.

 

[NavyVet1959]

Well, I been out-of-country for the last 6 weeks or so and it looks like I might be home for a couple of weeks, so I ordered a few items for my JL the other day. One was a receiver hitch that was originally for a JK since it seems that this will work from what I've read. I get it for $36 off of eBay. It doesn't include a wiring harness, but that's not a big deal for me. I'll rig up something for that at a later date.

 

[Rick12785]

My advice if going JK or aftermarket is to get a hitch with a longer receiver, one that sticks out past the bumper. When using a lock or hitch pin it is really hard to get to because the hitch hole is right under the bumper.

 

[StAug Mike]

All I really want and need is a 4 pin connection
So if I read all of this correctly.
The only concern with splice the wires (because the JK connectors to not match the JL) is that you may draw to much power.
So would it not be simpler to just convert the trailer lights to LED?

 

[SD964]

Sorry for the newbie question. I am only in need of a 4 pin adaptor. Etrailer sells a Tekonsha harness that is plug and play with the need to run power from the battery similar to the OE harness. Rather than pulling wire from the battery through the firewall and interior/or under the Jeep, can you just add the quadratec 12v adaptor that can pull power 12v from the rear power source on the driver side? Some members have used the pigtail to add USB and 12v power source to the rear seats. Thanks

https://www.quadratec.com/products/96080_9801.htm

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-outlet-to-rear-of-center-console.6927/page-2

 

[Dynomite1371]

Got around to doing this install today. It took all day, but honestly I’m not very mechanically or electrically competent. The install wasn’t bad but that rubber grommet was really annoying; perhaps it would’ve been easier had I removed the front wheel liner. I decided to leave it on to avoid having to worry about reinstalling rivets. Also, the inserts that you have to remove to insert the two yellow wires on the drivers side harness were very difficult to remove (paper clip my ass) I ended up just using a pair of small needle nose pliers and pulling them out. All my lights were working and the interior isn’t rattling too bad so I guess that’s a win. Now just need to find a buddy with a trailer to test the actual connectors.

I'm trying to get through that rubber grommet (passenger side foot well) for something else and I litterarly can't get through I've tried everything. #pissed!

 

[NorCalSahara]

I'm trying to get through that rubber grommet (passenger side foot well) for something else and I litterarly can't get through I've tried everything. #pissed!

I ended up using a length of stiff wire that I had lying around, they recommend a wire coat hanger. I poked it through the grommet from the inside of the Jeep and then while laying under the Jeep I reached up and pulled down the wire making sure not to pull it all the way through the grommet and taped the harness to it using a shit ton of electrical tape. Then went back to the inside of the Jeep and used some needle nose pliers and grabbed the wire securely and slowly pulled. The first couple times I did it I realized that the tape wasn’t enough and the wire pulled through without the harness attached to it. So key is lots of tape and patience. Good luck.

 

[vavaroutsos]

I'm trying to get through that rubber grommet (passenger side foot well) for something else and I litterarly can't get through I've tried everything. #pissed!

The rubber boot has a flange that is wrapped under the harness tape. You need to poke a hole through the boot unless you want to unwrap the harness (not recommended).

 

[Cutterwolf]

Good morning all...

Just did an install of mopar harness...flashed it tazer JL I'm not getting power from the yellow wire...so I'm assuming somewhere I've gone horribly wrong....thoughts?

 

[mergedown]

Good morning all...

Just did an install of mopar harness...flashed it tazer JL I'm not getting power from the yellow wire...so I'm assuming somewhere I've gone horribly wrong....thoughts?

Get it figured out? My best guess is that your wiring isn’t seated properly as I had the same issue.

 

[TrailTorque]

Nice install man thanks for sharing!

Shouldn’t this be in the DIY section?

 

[Cutterwolf]

Get it figured out? My best guess is that your wiring isn’t seated properly as I had the same issue.

Good Morning,

There must be a cross thread somewhere. I ended up getting it done, but it was with help from the guys at "Just Jeeps" in Toronto Canada

It seems as though the harness in the states and the one in Canada are a little bit different, (may be due to daytime running lights), but if you follow the instructions to a tee , it will not work over here.......I'm not 100% sure why exactly so I want to head back and talk to the tech, then I can update that thread but was waiting until I needed to go and pick up my new tires (over holidays I'm hoping )

 

[Jondrew]

Maybe I missed it. Do you have a part number for this harness? I’m only seeing JK harnesses listed.

Sponsored