Method 'Bead Grip' Wheels vs. Non 'Bead Grip'?

[roaniecowpony]

If we're discussing "to beadlock, or not to beadlock" and beadgrip wheels. I'd like to toss in the other option: Icon Rebound Pro Innerlock wheels, or as I call them: beadbolt wheels.


I've run them for only about a month, but have tested them down to 10 psi on John Bull and Holcomb Creek BOH trails rock crawling as well as running them at 15 psi through "the Squeeze" on Pinyon Mountain trail in Anza-Borrego. I know they have limitations less than traditional beadlocks offer. But they do mount in a traditional non-beadlock manner and are DOT compliant. That fact opens up the ability to have them mounted and balanced at a common tire shop. The Torrance CA America's Tire (Discount Tire in my region) mounted mine and were very good at following the mounting instructions, which have a specific process that I led them through and didn't charge beyond a normal installation even though these take longer.

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[Discount Tire]

If we're discussing "to beadlock, or not to beadlock" and beadgrip wheels. I'd like to toss in the other option: Icon Rebound Pro Innerlock wheels, or as I call them: beadbolt wheels.


I've run them for only about a month, but have tested them down to 10 psi on John Bull and Holcomb Creek BOH trails rock crawling as well as running them at 15 psi through "the Squeeze" on Pinyon Mountain trail in Anza-Borrego. I know they have limitations less than traditional beadlocks offer. But they do mount in a traditional non-beadlock manner and are DOT compliant. That fact opens up the ability to have them mounted and balanced at a common tire shop. The Torrance CA America's Tire (Discount Tire in my region) mounted mine and were very good at following the mounting instructions, which have a specific process that I led them through and didn't charge beyond a normal installation even though these take longer.

Thank you for the shout out! I am glad to hear that the Rebound Pro is performing as expected!

 

[NOVAJL]

For those running the Method 701's, what lug are you using? I have a pair of 701s left over from my JK but the Gorilla acorn lugs on my JL will not fit in the hole.

 

[Philly_]

For those running the Method 701's, what lug are you using? I have a pair of 701s left over from my JK but the Gorilla acorn lugs on my JL will not fit in the hole.

I have the 704’s, but I assume it’s the same size opening.

I had a set of Pro-Comp (Pro-Crap… ifykyk ?) to use I got for super cheap, but those were rusted when I pulled them out of the box so back they went.

Bought whatever brand Method sells directly (can’t remember) and the coating has held up surprisingly well while rotating tires and pulling the wheels off for various reasons. Actually better than the Gorilla Lugs I had on my JK did.

 

[Discount Tire]

@NOVAJL you should use a Small Diameter Spline Drive lug nut which all Discount/America's tire locations should have on hand or order them for you.

 

[NOVAJL]

Thank you. I'll look for a set of small spline lug nuts.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I was all set to buy a set today, but they don't seem to make a 3.5" backspace that I need.

 

[dstevens]

Sounds like you are talking yourself into 38s. To me the smaller backspace would make the tire hit the outside of the fender at full stuff, both front and rear. As it is with 4.75" backspace I'm about 1/4" away from it being too far out. Also it increases the arc on the front tire so the front bumper becomes a problem. I can look again but I think a greater backspace would be possible on my Jeep with the 37s. But plenty of other people run a smaller backspace so there must some good reason I am missing. At least we're not talking about spacers (yet).

 

[roaniecowpony]

Sounds like you are talking yourself into 38s. To me the smaller backspace would make the tire hit the outside of the fender at full stuff, both front and rear. As it is with 4.75" backspace I'm about 1/4" away from it being too far out. Also it increases the arc on the front tire so the front bumper becomes a problem. I can look again but I think a greater backspace would be possible on my Jeep with the 37s. But plenty of other people run a smaller backspace so there must some good reason I am missing. At least we're not talking about spacers (yet).

I've gutted the fenders front and rear now. But at full stuff in the front, I get hard contact on the inboard inner components. In the rear, I'm getting contact on areas of the Motobilt liners which less backspace would cure. I can also address it with more bump stop or some metal work.

Just a heads up, these metal liners seem to have less clearance in some areas than I had with the plastic liners. Just fabricate your own.

 

[dstevens]

Just a heads up, these metal liners seem to have less clearance in some areas than I had with the plastic liners. Just fabricate your own.

That's the conclusion that I have reached. The problem is that the inner fender need to have compound curves, which is difficult to do in metal so they end up segmented.

I did get my 37s to clear the rear with a stock fender at full stuff but the tire is very close to the fender in all directions. Had to add additional brackets to hold the inner fender out of the way. Had to chop up the rear lower plastic as well.

 

[roaniecowpony]

That's the conclusion that I have reached. The problem is that the inner fender need to have compound curves, which is difficult to do in metal so they end up segmented.

I did get my 37s to clear the rear with a stock fender at full stuff but the tire is very close to the fender in all directions. Had to add additional brackets to hold the inner fender out of the way. Had to chop up the rear lower plastic as well.

I'm going to see if I can simply trim/split in half, the rear OE liner and raise it up a bit into the inner cove of the quarter panel. I may have to go to Jr's and roll an angle for a flange to attach to the quarter panel.

I also have the Metalcloak durospring bump stops coming. My OEM upper cushion stops may be fatigued.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I'm going to see if I can simply trim/split in half, the rear OE liner and raise it up a bit into the inner cove of the quarter panel. I may have to go to Jr's and roll an angle for a flange to attach to the quarter panel.

I also have the Metalcloak durospring bump stops coming. My OEM upper cushion stops may be fatigued.

Here's some pix of the Motobilt rear liners that I'm struggling to get enough clearance with.

I've bent the trailing section up/back but the contact is still above that. The forward section has contact in the area where they angled the liner, even after I trimmed a few inches in a curved shape. Like you said, it needs compound curves. I would form some liners, but I may be able to just make (part of) the OEM liner work.

 

[maxp0wers]

Interesting conversation.

How about comparing wheels with a "knurl bead set" to Method's Bead Grips? I have run 2 sets with the knurl but never pushed aggressive air downs. I stuck with 18 - 20 psi.

Previously ran Kansei KNP wheels and now Titan 7. Method's bead grips too appear more advanced and probably capable of handling lower psi. On a quick visual look it appears that while both method and titan use a groove to set the beads on low pressure, Method uses a triple track and Titan only a single. Method also adds inside and outside large humps where as Titan only has the outside.

Does appear to be a very noticeable difference that i would allow method wheels to be more aggressive when airing down. Realistically though I expect that I am never going to be in situation where 15 psi just isn't aired down enough and the lightweight Titan wheel does make an extremely noticeable difference in driving on and off road especially wanting to stay in only EV mode on a 4XE.

Comparison of Knurling vs Bead Grip from ChatGPT:


Titan 7 off-road wheels do not use the same bead‑grip technology found on Method Race Wheels, but they do incorporate a different approach to improving tire retention.


🛞 What Titan 7 Uses: Bead Seat Knurling

Titan 7 Forged Wheels feature gear‑cut knurled bead seats— essentially, machine‑cut ridges around the bead seat, designed to increase friction between tire bead and rim. This helps prevent tire slippage or “creep” under load, particularly during aggressive driving or when airing down slightly (Titan 7 Wheels).


That design achieves:

• Improved traction and grip at the bead by mechanically engaging the tire.
• Prevention of bead migration during spirited driving.
• Lightweight and maintenance-free performance—no bolts or rings.

How It Compares to Method’s Bead Grip®

Feature	Method Bead Grip®	Titan 7 Bead Seat Knurling
Retention Mechanism	Patented grooves + safety humps bite into tire bead on both inner & outer seats (Glenn Said, Northridge4x4.com)	Gear‑cut knurled bead seat provides friction-based retention
Inner & Outer Seat	Yes	Primarily standard bead seat
Air‑down Protection	Effective down to ~10–12 psi; still not as strong as true beadlocks (Northridge4x4.com, Glenn Said)	Reduces slippage; no official air‑down spec but adds grip at moderate pressures
Street Legality	DOT-compliant; no external clamp hardware	Fully DOT-compliant standard wheel
Weight / Maintenance	Almost no added weight; no ring or bolts	Same; just machining, no added hardware
Use Case	Moderate off‑road use, overlanding, daily driving	Performance or off‑road light use, track, or mild trail

Summary

• Method’s Bead Grip® uses proprietary grooves and safety humps to grip the tire bead on both inner and outer sides—allowing lower air pressures safely, acting as a non‑bolt beadlock substitute.
• Titan 7’s knurling is gear‑cut ridges on the bead seat, improving grip and preventing tire creep—but it is less aggressive than Method’s system and not specifically marketed for airing‑down performance.

Final Thoughts

If your goal is to air down significantly for trails or dunes and reduce the risk of bead loss, Method Bead Grip® offers a higher‑grade bead retention system. If you're looking for lightweight, forged wheels with improved bead grip for occasional sporty driving or mild trail use, Titan 7’s bead‑seat knurling provides a quality friction‑based solution without the added weight or complexity of bolt‑on systems.

 

[broncoguy]

I've gutted the fenders front and rear now. But at full stuff in the front, I get hard contact on the inboard inner components. In the rear, I'm getting contact on areas of the Motobilt liners which less backspace would cure. I can also address it with more bump stop or some metal work.

Just a heads up, these metal liners seem to have less clearance in some areas than I had with the plastic liners. Just fabricate your own.

@roaniecowpony curious where you are getting contact on the front motobilt liners? Any pics? I have some ready to install but haven't done so as I'm thinking I might run into the same issue as you.

I do have the rears installed and rub in that same spot. Mostly just on the passenger side though.

 

[roaniecowpony]

@roaniecowpony curious where you are getting contact on the front motobilt liners? Any pics? I have some ready to install but haven't done so as I'm thinking I might run into the same issue as you.

I do have the rears installed and rub in that same spot. Mostly just on the passenger side though.

After coming home from the Rubicon trail, the front liners are streaked with black on both sides where the corner of the tread and sidewall meet. I'll get a picture later.

For the rears, I finally took out the Motobilt liners and put the OEM plastic liners back in, but trimmed the outer part back to an inch or two from the flat quarter panel, so I could use the push pins to hold to the flat quarter panel.

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