Metalcloak lock-n-load vs Game changer

[XtremeRetard]

Hmm, yes the rear instructions specifically show and reference the 6packs. Though the description also mentions "or standard shocks" so perhaps if you are keeping OEM shocks with the kit then you should use them.

I need to check my flex and stuff in the rear now and see what I have spare.. Its worth knowing about the rear offset spacers just in case

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[XtremeRetard]

Ok further to this rear droop and stuff seem to be limited by the rear sway bar. The new shocks have more travel but only an inch max is being used when one side is stuffed and the other in full droop.

So unless both are drooped you won't get much gains over the rocksports and I dare say 6packs will be the same. Both sides need to droop at a similar time. I had one around 21" and the other at 31" a 10" delta. I think thats about the limit. Maybe a antirock sway would give a little more, I dont know. But thats probably why there is not much point with the rear shock brackets. Clearance was ok, sway bar was getting cose to shock body, but everything else was ok.

 

[GATORB8]

Ok further to this rear droop and stuff seem to be limited by the rear sway bar. The new shocks have more travel but only an inch max is being used when one side is stuffed and the other in full droop.

So unless both are drooped you won't get much gains over the rocksports and I dare say 6packs will be the same. Both sides need to droop at a similar time. I had one around 21" and the other at 31" a 10" delta. I think thats about the limit. Maybe a antirock sway would give a little more, I dont know. But thats probably why there is not much point with the rear shock brackets. Clearance was ok, sway bar was getting cose to shock body, but everything else was ok.

Ramp or CTI?

Drop brackets on the rear bar?

 

[XtremeRetard]

Just a rock ramp, yes drop bracket on rear sway.

 

[GATORB8]

Just a rock ramp, yes drop bracket on rear sway.

Those are the 3.5-4.5?

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

It looks like the passenger shock is pretty near stuffed.

Are the passenger spring coils bottomed out too?

 

[XtremeRetard]

It looks like the passenger shock is pretty near stuffed.

Are the passenger spring coils bottomed out too?

3.5GC I think with a 0.75 spacer on top. But not 100% sure if I used OEM or Daystar when I put the springs in. Shock has 2 inches plus to go on the passenger side, plus about 1" to bump stop to go.. Driver wheel was in the air, jeep teetering. Maybe I should have unlocked the front swaybar, that might have helpd the rear out more. I might revisit that..

Coils not bottomed out. Tons of room to fenders and seams etc. So Ideally I would get the extra 2 inches of stuff that side with the extra 1 inch on the drivers side.. But thinking about it, I need to do the same again with disco on. Im sure that didnt help..

 

[GATORB8]

3.5GC I think with a 0.75 spacer on top. But not 100% sure if I used OEM or Daystar when I put the springs in. Shock has 2 inches plus to go on the passenger side, plus about 1" to bump stop to go.. Driver wheel was in the air, jeep teetering. Maybe I should have unlocked the front swaybar, that might have helpd the rear out more. I might revisit that..

Coils not bottomed out. Tons of room to fenders and seams etc. So Ideally I would get the extra 2 inches of stuff that side with the extra 1 inch on the drivers side.. But thinking about it, I need to do the same again with disco on. Im sure that didnt help..

I'm sure it's the ramp weight transfer. You should be able to full bump the rear if you corner load opposite corners like a CTI.

 

[Roky]

3.5GC I think with a 0.75 spacer on top. But not 100% sure if I used OEM or Daystar when I put the springs in. Shock has 2 inches plus to go on the passenger side, plus about 1" to bump stop to go.. Driver wheel was in the air, jeep teetering. Maybe I should have unlocked the front swaybar, that might have helpd the rear out more. I might revisit that..

Coils not bottomed out. Tons of room to fenders and seams etc. So Ideally I would get the extra 2 inches of stuff that side with the extra 1 inch on the drivers side.. But thinking about it, I need to do the same again with disco on. Im sure that didnt help..

You’re welcome to come over and use my ramp…… …..

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

The Rocksports on my GameChanger 3.5" lift measure 24.25" at "ride height", and that is without a spare tire weighing down the back end. 23.85" is the mid point on the Rocksports range of travel.

When you said you purchased some shocks that have a minimum length 2-1/4" longer than the Rocksports it seemed like you were willingly sacrificing up travel while also inviting the springs to fall out at full down travel.

This is what my rear wheel looks like when it is stuffed in the wheel well and just barely clear of any obstructions. It was easy to achieve with the basic 3.5" GC kit, stock swaybar mounting, and 3 x 1 inch bump stop pads mounted on the axle.

I never bothered to measure how much potential up travel is left in the shocks when my rear tires are stuffed in the wheel wells, but now you have me curious. The tire rises 7-1/4" before the axle bumps the stops. The shock must be getting close to its potential bottom out. I guess I will make a measurement someday.

In my opinion, the benefit of the GameChanger 3.5" kit is that it includes the Rocksport shock choice. The length of that shock is a really good match for the GC 3.5" spring travel, as well as the range of motion made possible by the Duroflex joints.

MetalCloak could have specified any length of shock they wanted. and they did. I think it's pretty cool that they don't just defer the selection and suggest that you buy some off-the-shelf generic-length Baja racing shocks to complete a kit.

I am hoping that the new MetalCloak reservoir shocks become available soon, I would like to try the improved tuning without sacrificing geometry.

 

[GATORB8]

Since we're all just showing off now.
Rear with 2" of bump + Durosprings. Old 5100s around 31.75" extended. Those were 19.5" compressed, so the bumps stopped me around 20.5" maybe?

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

FWIW,
I was not showing off, I was just showing the results of installing a basic and relatively low-priced lift kit.

 

[GATORB8]

FWIW,
I was not showing off, I was just showing the results of installing a basic and relatively low-priced lift kit.

I was just making an excuse to post a flex shot, lol.

 

[XtremeRetard]

The Rocksports on my GameChanger 3.5" lift measure 24.25" at "ride height", and that is without a spare tire weighing down the back end. 23.85" is the mid point on the Rocksports range of travel.

When you said you purchased some shocks that have a minimum length 2-1/4" longer than the Rocksports it seemed like you were willingly sacrificing up travel while also inviting the springs to fall out at full down travel.

No, the fronts are pretty much the same as MC RS shocks, but the rears are longer.. Given the angle of the rears you lose about 20% vs front straight travel. So nothing falls/fails anywhere. Pretty much all other manufacturers make rears longer for this reason.

Also my fenders are fully gutted inside and out. So more room than stock.

Now the rears still have about 2-3" of travel to go when stuffed and still 1" clear space to bump stop. (XR bumps) But given your rears are 24.25 Im going to say I am running my 0.75" rear spacer still. As mine sit closer to 26" That would also explain why I have spare travel up.. But I do need to turn the disco on and re-measure. The rears always looked less flexy than the front. I think it was a combo of my spacer and the shock acting 20% shorter due to Pythagoras.

The fronts have always been pretty well maxed out. Springs loose and driveshaft wearing on exhaust/skid etc or tire wearing on fender..

 

[Headbarcode]

No, the fronts are pretty much the same as MC RS shocks, but the rears are longer.. Given the angle of the rears you lose about 20% vs front straight travel. So nothing falls/fails anywhere. Pretty much all other manufacturers make rears longer for this reason.

Also my fenders are fully gutted inside and out. So more room than stock.

Now the rears still have about 2-3" of travel to go when stuffed and still 1" clear space to bump stop. (XR bumps) But given your rears are 24.25 Im going to say I am running my 0.75" rear spacer still. As mine sit closer to 26" That would also explain why I have spare travel up.. But I do need to turn the disco on and re-measure. The rears always looked less flexy than the front. I think it was a combo of my spacer and the shock acting 20% shorter due to Pythagoras.

The fronts have always been pretty well maxed out. Springs loose and driveshaft wearing on exhaust/skid etc or tire wearing on fender..

I too have always noticed that the rear was always late to the party, as far as flexibility.

The rear factory sway bar is a bit on the stiff side, by design. It offers more body control on road, and also helps to offset a completely disconnected front, so it's more predictable offroad. The stiff rear also helps apply more downward force on the front tires, when the front axle is fully articulated. The only downside I noticed about the stiff rear, albeit a small one, was when the rear tire rolled over something big and pushed the body/frame into a butt puckering lean. The fully disconnected front offers zero resistance in that situation.

Amongst a number of other benefits, front and rear Antirocks allow the rear to flex easier and help keep the body more level in the slow speed whoops.

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