Metalcloak lift kit question

[sherpaJL]

Certainly lightly loaded, the 3.5" would be no problem with 38s. But with my load-out for an overnight trail run, the rear sags significantly. I found myself making contact (albeit light) on the Rubicon, more this last year. One might say to lighten my load. But the heavy stuff is tools. So, which tools would I do without? (retorical)

Would this work for your situation?

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/air-lift-1000-install-quick-and-easy.126273/

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[roaniecowpony]

Would this work for your situation?

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/air-lift-1000-install-quick-and-easy.126273/

Not well for getting full articulation during wheeling, while carrying the load. Springs are much simpler to install.

 

[C.Sco]

I'm in this predicament as well. 3.5" MCGC, 37s. I saved some weight when I removed 2/3 of the rear seat. But my tool bag is a solid chunk of steel tools 24" long x 12" dia. I also have a 35lb Pro Eagle mini floor jack, compressor, recovery gear, to say nothing of the usual cooler/fridge and camping gear. I've been considering the 4.5" rear springs. Maybe the fronts as well, since I'm considering 38" tires.

So, would I need to change the rear driveshaft to accomodate 4.5" springs? I'm also thinking about getting the new Rocksport (cheap red) 32" shocks for more articulation. I currently have an aftermarket longer front driveshaft and OEM rear driveshaft.

I didn't change my rear driveshaft when I went to 4.5" springs in the back, because I figured the ride height wasn't actually changing, it was just being lifted back up to where it was supposed to be with the 3.5" springs. I have no idea if my logic is flawed or not, but I haven't had any driveshaft issues, even fully flexed out on the trail. I think (but don't know) that the control arms and shocks prevent the rear axle from drooping enough for it to be a problem.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I didn't change my rear driveshaft when I went to 4.5" springs in the back, because I figured the ride height wasn't actually changing, it was just being lifted back up to where it was supposed to be with the 3.5" springs. I have no idea if my logic is flawed or not, but I haven't had any driveshaft issues, even fully flexed out on the trail. I think (but don't know) that the control arms prevent the rear axle from dropping enough for it to be a problem.

Thinking about it, if you didn't change the rear shocks to a longer full extension, the rear driveshaft shouldn't need to be longer. I'm thinking of getting some more flex by adding the new 32" (red) Rocksports. So, that change might necessitate the driveshaft change. I'll call MC today.

 

[Crso8541]

Thinking about it, if you didn't change the rear shocks to a longer full extension, the rear driveshaft shouldn't need to be longer. I'm thinking of getting some more flex by adding the new 32" (red) Rocksports. So, that change might necessitate the driveshaft change. I'll call MC today.

The RockSports definitely will cause the rear to be an issue. You can add some larger bump stops to alleviate it while waiting on getting a driveshaft.

 

[Roky]

Thinking about it, if you didn't change the rear shocks to a longer full extension, the rear driveshaft shouldn't need to be longer. I'm thinking of getting some more flex by adding the new 32" (red) Rocksports. So, that change might necessitate the driveshaft change. I'll call MC today.

I’m 33.25 extended in rear, no issues with factory shaft…..

 

[roaniecowpony]

The RockSports definitely will cause the rear to be an issue. You can add some larger bump stops to alleviate it while waiting on getting a driveshaft.

Unless my current bumps would allow the shock to bottom out, I shouldn't have to change bumps. But, good catch. I will need to check that before installing the springs with the new shocks.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I’m 33.25 extended in rear, no issues with factory shaft…..

I'm gonna start calling you "Flexman".

 

[Crso8541]

Unless my current bumps would allow the shock to bottom out, I shouldn't have to change bumps. But, good catch. I will need to check that before installing the springs with the new shocks.

I need to

Unless my current bumps would allow the shock to bottom out, I shouldn't have to change bumps. But, good catch. I will need to check that before installing the springs with the new shocks.

I may be over thinking it but that’s what I did before to prevent it being a problem on the trail. I’m probably off on it but it made me feel good hahahahah

 

[roaniecowpony]

I just ordered the 4.5" rear springs and 32" shocks, along with a couple 1" bump pads. The rep said they weren't recommending the 32" shocks with a mid arm and were "reserving" them for a long arm setup. I decided to give them a try.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I’m 33.25 extended in rear, no issues with factory shaft…..

Roky Flexman, what longarm setup is that? Basically, can you describe your entire rear suspension? I like that the arm pivot is tucked... a lot.

 

[Roky]

Roky Flexman, what longarm setup is that? Basically, can you describe your entire rear suspension? I like that the arm pivot is tucked... a lot.

It’s the Rock Krawler Adventure X with 3 link rear…..i had to shoot from the hip on a couple tings like having to weld on my sliders, and a couple other things but way worth it…. I documented it in my build thread, start reading here……

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/crystal-rubi-build….61821/post-1650935

 

[azjl#3]

Did that require you to upgrade your rear drive shaft as well?

No, I put 50,000 miles on it, no issue, front rep seal did crack, they covered under warranty

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