Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Yes, stop over-thinking. Use a drop of red loctite. You’ll be ok.

Apropos: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/new-to-me-they-now-have-orange-loctite.69241/

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[chevymitchell]

Apropos: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/new-to-me-they-now-have-orange-loctite.69241/

Yeah, I have some.

Still, use red for the screw.

 

[ob-one]

Someone that lives nearby is selling JL locker gear and sensor. He texted saying that no dash light on when removed, I didn’t asked why it was changed out.

So the question now is should I buy the sensor and for how much?

The reason for buying it is somewhere in this forum was a discussion about connections overseas that can mass produce this so we don't have to replace axles.

As of today the sensor is still available

 

[KPersCO]

Someone that lives nearby is selling JL locker gear and sensor. He texted saying that no dash light on when removed, I didn’t asked why it was changed out.

So the question now is should I buy the sensor and for how much?

The reason for buying it is somewhere in this forum was a discussion about connections overseas that can mass produce this so we don't have to replace axles.

As of today the sensor is still available

Given they unobtainium I would certainly pick one up if possible. As with all negotiating I would let him give a price first!

 

[KPersCO]

Another set of sensors successfully potted last weekend. 12K miles and neither had any oil. Drilling is stressful, since I was doing it by hand with a drill, but I saw someone else mention a technique that really helped. Once you get to the end when you're about to be through start manually moving the sensor instead pulling the trigger that way when you are through and can finish off the hole manually spinning while pulling outwards. It's the moment you break through and the bit dives down where the most risk is for hit the sensor. Hope that makes sense.

Side note those bolts at the top of the front diff can burn in hell.

 

[neil]

Another set of sensors successfully potted last weekend. 12K miles and neither had any oil. Drilling is stressful, since I was doing it by hand with a drill, but I saw someone else mention a technique that really helped. Once you get to the end when you're about to be through start manually moving the sensor instead pulling the trigger that way when you are through and can finish off the hole manually spinning while pulling outwards. It's the moment you break through and the bit dives down where the most risk is for hit the sensor. Hope that makes sense.

Side note those bolts at the top of the front diff can burn in hell.

Great description, the bit does want to thread through when you finally break the other side of the plastic.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Great description, the bit does want to thread through when you finally break the other side of the plastic.

Would something like this help?

Air Capital Drill Stop Set -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046ASHIW

Or what about using a Dremel?

Amazon finally delivered my potting epoxy, so I’m gearing up to tackle this.

Oh, anyone have an opinion on using CRC MAF cleaner instead of Electronics cleaner? I have the former, and if I can save $10 why not?

 

[neil]

Would something like this help?

Air Capital Drill Stop Set -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046ASHIW

Or what about using a Dremel?

Amazon finally delivered my potting epoxy, so I’m gearing up to tackle this.

Oh, anyone have an opinion on using CRC MAF cleaner instead of Electronics cleaner? I have the former, and if I can save $10 why not?

I don't like my hand position with a dremel, for me, this was either hand or press, and my press is miles away. One could fashion a stop out of some 1x block, but then your going by feel and we like to watch our disasters....

I prefer electronics cleaner. never fooled with MAF. Never had issue with electronics cleaner on any of it's uses. spend 6 bucks at auto zone.

If your nervous about drilling, don't do it after 5 cups of coffee.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

If your nervous about drilling, don't do it after 5 cups of coffee.

Hmm. My natural state fluctuates between 6 cups of coffee, two tumblers of bourbon, and passed out. This could be a challenge.

 

[BuffaloBill]

I too potted mine a couple days ago, since I was regearing. Thanks for the tips on doing this!

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Well, step one is done.

EFF THOSE DIFF COVER BOLTS ON THE TOP.

Edit: further along in this thread someone advised that jacking up one side a little bit will give easy access to the bolts.

A couple of tips that I haven’t seen mentioned:

• Milwaukee M12 3/8” ratchet made diff cover removal much easier than hand tools would have been
• Neither my Milwaukee nor my Tekton ratchet could squeeze in to get the very top bolt (true for front and rear). Make sure you have a good 10mm wrench or a shallow 10mm socket (I will be buying a cheap one at Harbor Freight, tomorrow, to make reassembly easier)
• Getting to the red tab that releases the wiring harness is pretty much impossible unless you wiggle the sensor free, first
• Wiggling the sensor free takes patience. I found that I had to put some pressure on the metal clip thing (see picture)
• T20 screwdriver was a piece of cake. I’m glad I didn’t monkey with the “single use” cap bolts. (I don’t know if they’re all the same, but my T20 is a Tekton. It fit easily and the handle is stout enough to get plenty of torque to prevent stripping.)
• I found the front to be easier to see. I started with the rear, but recommend starting in the front so you can get the hang of wiggling the sensor out and disconnecting the harness.

Gently pushing the circled part helped me get the sensor free:

Here’s the red tab. It slides. Small flathead for the win. Easy does it!

My sensors look to be in great condition for 36,000 miles. Tomorrow I will pot them.

SO APPRECIATIVE of this thread. What a great community.

 

[nU7OuxIx]

Well, step one is done.

EFF THOSE DIFF COVER BOLTS ON THE TOP.

I haven't done this yet so I don't know....but can you jack the Jeep up so the diff hangs lower and out of the way of other stuff?

With my YJ and even when I had my WJ, I thought if I jacked it up enough, the diff drops and exposes the top bolts much easier. Not sure if you can do the same with the JL or if anybody's tried.

 

[word302]

Well, step one is done.

EFF THOSE DIFF COVER BOLTS ON THE TOP.

A couple of tips that I haven’t seen mentioned:

• Milwaukee M12 3/8” ratchet made diff cover removal much easier than hand tools would have been
• Neither my Milwaukee nor my Tekton ratchet could squeeze in to get the very top bolt (true for front and rear). Make sure you have a good 10mm wrench or a shallow 10mm socket (I will be buying a cheap one at Harbor Freight, tomorrow, to make reassembly easier)
• Getting to the red tab that releases the wiring harness is pretty much impossible unless you wiggle the sensor free, first
• Wiggling the sensor free takes patience. I found that I had to put some pressure on the metal clip thing (see picture)
• T20 screwdriver was a piece of cake. I’m glad I didn’t monkey with the “single use” cap bolts. (I don’t know if they’re all the same, but my T20 is a Tekton. It fit easily and the handle is stout enough to get plenty of torque to prevent stripping.)
• I found the front to be easier to see. I started with the rear, but recommend starting in the front so you can get the hang of wiggling the sensor out and disconnecting the harness.

Gently pushing the circled part helped me get the sensor free:

Here’s the red tab. It slides. Small flathead for the win. Easy does it!

My sensors look to be in great condition for 36,000 miles. Tomorrow I will pot them.

SO APPRECIATIVE of this thread. What a great community.

Pro tip, Jack the driver side frame up and the diff cover bolts are free and clear.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Pro tip, Jack the driver side frame up and the diff cover bolts are free and clear.

I will do that when I reassemble, tomorrow. (Potting went well. A lot easier than dealing with the diff bolts, honestly.) Thanks!

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

All done! Lockers engage and disengage super fast. Maybe they always did and I was just hyper aware while testing.

@chevymitchell your procedure worked great! Suggestion: add @word302's tip about jacking driver's side to make dif bolts accessible to post #1. It's probably common knowledge to many, but for this newb that would have been very welcomed info. While reassembling I did jack the frame using a floor jack and holy cow what a difference... I was very easily able to use my Milwaukee electric ratchet to make quick work of things. Maybe also mention that the cap bolt removal is optional, and that a T20 screwdriver can be used if you're careful to not strip the bolt. Mine came right out without a fight. (Thanks to @SwissSteph for that tip.)

For guys reading this who are nervous: let me tell you, drilling those sensors and potting them was the easiest part and I was very worried about doing it (I'd much rather be standing at a workbench doing detail work than crawling around on the floor under the Jeep, so YMMV). @Chocolate Thunder you can definitely handle it. Use a brand new, sharp bit and a good drill. Nothing to it if you go slow. Don't skimp on filling the back cavity with epoxy, too. It shrinks down when it cures and on one of my sensors I had an indentation where the hole was.

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