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chevymitchell

chevymitchell

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I have contacted TE twice and I only received crickets. @wibornz railed on Dana until they told him to go away. This has to be one of the dumbest things I've ever seen.
I made a bid to TE to buy 100 of them. They said they could not sell them as they belonged to their automotive division and were not available to purchase.
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I made a bid to TE to buy 100 of them. They said they could not sell them as they belonged to their automotive division and were not available to purchase.
It's a conspiracy...LOL
 

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I made a bid to TE to buy 100 of them. They said they could not sell them as they belonged to their automotive division and were not available to purchase.
It seems that they could just sell them for 1000% markup and give em a part number and be done w it.
 

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I have contacted TE twice and I only received crickets. @wibornz railed on Dana until they told him to go away. This has to be one of the dumbest things I've ever seen.
Maybe we need to start a Rubi owner's petition or something to try and get FCA's attention. Hell, I might go for broke and send Mike Manley a paper letter.

If we did a petition, we could all share the link to it on Facebook, through Jeep clubs, and elsewhere. Then send it to Manley.

Just thinking out loud.
 

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It seems that they could just sell them for 1000% markup and give em a part number and be done w it.
Even if they charged $100 they'd sell a bunch of them.
 

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chevymitchell

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Even if they charged $100 they'd sell a bunch of them.
I designed a working circuit back when this first started and before I made the potting video. I've been debating on whether or not to start some DO-160 testing on it in a 3D printed housing just to see if I can mass produce new sensors in the aftermarket. Lots to invest to do that and by the time I had one designed and tested, FCA would release one that's covered under a 2 year parts warranty... The thought has crossed my mind.
 

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So then Jeep is saying to run a thinner fluid, in contrast to Dana Spicer to pick up MPG's?!
since both front and rear start at 75 (the cold number) the fluid would be the same thickness. I would run the 75w-140 in both axles because the 140 means it can handle higher temperature.
 

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I designed a working circuit back when this first started and before I made the potting video. I've been debating on whether or not to start some DO-160 testing on it in a 3D printed housing just to see if I can mass produce new sensors in the aftermarket. Lots to invest to do that and by the time I had one designed and tested, FCA would release one that's covered under a 2 year parts warranty... The thought has crossed my mind.
If you crowd funded it, I'd be one of the first in!
 

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I designed a working circuit back when this first started and before I made the potting video. I've been debating on whether or not to start some DO-160 testing on it in a 3D printed housing just to see if I can mass produce new sensors in the aftermarket. Lots to invest to do that and by the time I had one designed and tested, FCA would release one that's covered under a 2 year parts warranty... The thought has crossed my mind.
NERD
 

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Small town, find a worker and set up an eBay shop, haha

I did my wife's rear (har) today, her jeeps rear.

I did not use loctite on the diff cover bolts, as there was some residue, I just snugged up to the washer without mashing the snot outta it. I did use blue on the sensor bolt.

FWIW, one should also pay attention when reconnecting the sensor, the harness has a lock that is red that snaps down after you sit it.

Also, one container of the potting material is enough for four sensors.
I might know a guy or two that works there .... maybe liberate a couple of samples for some prototype work?
 

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A few thoughts, sorry if I step on any toes:

1: I wonder if just drilling one drain hole in the sensor would alleviate the problem? Oil would NOT just sit in the housing all the time, but would drain back out. Of course, that might just delay the inevitable failure until after the warranty expires.

2: If I ever get my JL delivered, I plan to run at least 5k on it and drain the fluid to see if there's excessive metal chips, and if Jeep has fixed the sensor. When doing so, I'll probably just crack the cover to drain the punkin' juice like I do on my CJs and not fool with the drain plug. Without seeing one in person, can you clean the magnet in place or does the plug need to be pulled?

3: I can't remember who did it, but NEVER, NEVER put anything other than gear oil in the diff. Any kind of cleaner or solvent is asking for trouble. Would be difficult to get it all out without doing a good rinse with gear oil; in which case, why not just flush it with gear oil exclusively?

4: Since the Sahara and Sport don't present an error code with the Rubicon axles installed what indicates that the locker is engaged? Is there an add-on kit with a light? Could the Rubi software be modified to ignore the fault or is that looking for trouble?
 

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A few thoughts, sorry if I step on any toes:

1: I wonder if just drilling one drain hole in the sensor would alleviate the problem? Oil would NOT just sit in the housing all the time, but would drain back out. Of course, that might just delay the inevitable failure until after the warranty expires.

2: If I ever get my JL delivered, I plan to run at least 5k on it and drain the fluid to see if there's excessive metal chips, and if Jeep has fixed the sensor. When doing so, I'll probably just crack the cover to drain the punkin' juice like I do on my CJs and not fool with the drain plug. Without seeing one in person, can you clean the magnet in place or does the plug need to be pulled?

3: I can't remember who did it, but NEVER, NEVER put anything other than gear oil in the diff. Any kind of cleaner or solvent is asking for trouble. Would be difficult to get it all out without doing a good rinse with gear oil; in which case, why not just flush it with gear oil exclusively?

4: Since the Sahara and Sport don't present an error code with the Rubicon axles installed what indicates that the locker is engaged? Is there an add-on kit with a light? Could the Rubi software be modified to ignore the fault or is that looking for trouble?
1. no-as soon as a shaving makes it's way into that hole it can fry board. Sensor has magnets....the probability is almost assured w a hole. Once you clean all the crap off the sensor you will understand.

2. Not in the two i've seen. Not my experience w others as well.

3. I don't think anyone has put anything other than gear oil in their diff.

4. No clue.
 

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1. no-as soon as a shaving makes it's way into that hole it can fry board. Sensor has magnets....the probability is almost assured w a hole. Once you clean all the crap off the sensor you will understand.

2. Not in the two i've seen. Not my experience w others as well.

3. I don't think anyone has put anything other than gear oil in their diff.

4. No clue.
@HungryHound:

Agree with Neil's thoughts and would add:

1. Some (and likely in my case) have not experienced failures because they have not used the lockers when the module was filled with oil. Additionally, these axles produce more iron than any I have ever seen.

2. Not sure what the trepidation is regarding the drain plug. By all means pull it, it will be absolutely covered in iron goop and pulling it is the only way to clean it. I would not go past 5K for the initial oil change and would be prepared to pot the sensors at the same time.

3. A simple wipe down with lint free towels is good enough, no need to spray solvent in it.

4. Since the Sahara and Sport do not have the wiring or systems to support the locker from the factory, not sure what they are using to engage the lockers other than a switch. Just pot the sensors early and be thankful that others like @chevymitchell have figured this out.
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