Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44

[chilldive]

Pulled both sensors out and the rear one was half full of oil. Last time I used the lockers they worked fine, so I've potted both.

My question is since the rear one had oil, its the most likely to fail of the two. I'm thinking of putting it back in the front diff and the clean sensor in the rear. My thinking is that I'd rather the front sensor fail than the rear. That way if I'm out on the trail and the front fails, then I can at least use the rear locker to get home.

I have a 2019 JLUR.

Does that thinking make sense?

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[conFUcius]

I designed a working circuit back when this first started and before I made the potting video. I've been debating on whether or not to start some DO-160 testing on it in a 3D printed housing just to see if I can mass produce new sensors in the aftermarket. Lots to invest to do that and by the time I had one designed and tested, FCA would release one that's covered under a 2 year parts warranty... The thought has crossed my mind.

I’d be happy to call some distant cousins overseas and have little kids make it in some sweatshops

 

[Mtpockets]

Just curious, you guys tracking these: Link

I guess the potting method is a lot cheaper but just wonder if this is a good option for those that would rather plug in a fix. $180 isn’t bad.

Otherwise I’m guess with fluid and the potting stuff, you’re out what....50-60$ depending on fluid choice?

The “plug-and-play“ above seems like a much safer way to go. Why isn't the above an excellent suggestion?

Also, 15 pages here and NO post from JeepCares?

 

[Redbaron73]

I designed a working circuit back when this first started and before I made the potting video. I've been debating on whether or not to start some DO-160 testing on it in a 3D printed housing just to see if I can mass produce new sensors in the aftermarket. Lots to invest to do that and by the time I had one designed and tested, FCA would release one that's covered under a 2 year parts warranty... The thought has crossed my mind.

Is the OE design using programmable IC's (Eprom) or is it an off-the shelf IC for all the components? I have yet to pull mine out and look at it.

I have a lot of experience taking circuit designs from KiCad and getting the final product built in china. It is amazing how cheap the whole process is. Most of my projects are for the *aftermarket* RV Industry, and none of them required getting RVIA certified or any other standard, so the costs are very low.

Might be worth a shot getting the circuit created without additional testing. The factories I have worked with will ship small test batches of 1,10, or 100 and do larger qty at a greater discount. My last project I had 48 solder points with a mix of resistors, capacitors, diodes, and 3 IC's plus power ports. The factory sold the raw circuit board(with tracing etched already and notations printed on board) for $4.00 ea, and the completed package for $32.

I was able to buy all raw components for $12, but the time to solder all components myself greatly exceed the $20 savings.

Might be worth looking into.

 

[DHW]

May be a dumb question, but I swapped out my diff covers a while back and put in a bit thicker oil (Amsoil 75W-90). Would the thicker oil make the sensor failure less likely to occur?

 

[HungryHound]

May be a dumb question, but I swapped out my diff covers a while back and put in a bit thicker oil (Amsoil 75W-90). Would the thicker oil make the sensor failure less likely to occur?

It's not thicker. The 75 is the room temperature thickness. The top number is for high temp. I believe 90 is low for a JL rear punkin. I'd run 145 top number in both axles if it were mine.

 

[word302]

The “plug-and-play“ above seems like a much safer way to go. Why isn't the above an excellent suggestion?

Also, 15 pages here and NO post from JeepCares?

Because the harness bypasses the function of the sensor.

 

[DHW]

It's not thicker. The 75 is the room temperature thickness. The top number is for high temp. I believe 90 is low for a JL rear punkin. I'd run 145 top number in both axles if it were mine.

Thanks for the info, I have some 140 on the way. I thought it came from the factory with 75W-85?

 

[HungryHound]

Thanks for the info, I have some 140 on the way. I thought it came from the factory with 75W-85?

I have one on order, but from what I understand, the rear requires 75w-145 and the front 75w-95. But it makes sense to go over the requirement and do 75w-145 on both axles.

 

[FiveBoro]

I have one on order, but from what I understand, the rear requires 75w-145 and the front 75w-95. But it makes sense to go over the requirement and do 75w-145 on both axles.

My 2018 specs 75W85 front and rear.

 

[neil]

It's important to look up your build, determine your axles, and use a minimum appropriate oil. This info is in the owners manual.

Some axles require a friction modifier which may or may not already be in your gear oil.

Our 20 and 21 rubicons require -85 in front and -110 or something akin in the rear. I used -85 in the front cause I had some in garage and -140 in rear.

When I run out of -85 I will use -140 all the way around. I will top with whatever is on hand if necessary.

don't overthink it. Don't do what I say. Look in your manuals.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Pulled both sensors out and the rear one was half full of oil. Last time I used the lockers they worked fine, so I've potted both.

My question is since the rear one had oil, its the most likely to fail of the two. I'm thinking of putting it back in the front diff and the clean sensor in the rear. My thinking is that I'd rather the front sensor fail than the rear. That way if I'm out on the trail and the front fails, then I can at least use the rear locker to get home.

I have a 2019 JLUR.

Does that thinking make sense?

I considered the same because my rear sensor was half full of oil, but given that it had not already failed and that the circuit board is fairly impervious to oil (the mix of oil and electricity is what causes the short), I am good with having cleaned the oil out using contact cleaner, potting it and carrying on.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I have one on order, but from what I understand, the rear requires 75w-145 and the front 75w-95. But it makes sense to go over the requirement and do 75w-145 on both axles.

I assume these are typos since there is no viscosity as 75W-95 or 75W-145. I am running 75W-110 in the front since that is the upper viscosity that is 75W-90 used to be before they upgraded the J306 tables. While it will not hurt to run 75W-140 in the front, you have to remember the load on that axle is intermittent and never to the extent of the rear which is in continuous operation. With that said, using the same viscosity in both axles makes sense from a cost perspective.

 

[HungryHound]

I assume these are typos since there is no viscosity as 75W-95 or 75W-145. I am running 75W-110 in the front since that is the upper viscosity that is 75W-90 used to be before they upgraded the J306 tables. While it will not hurt to run 75W-140 in the front, you have to remember the load on that axle is intermittent and never to the extent of the rear which is in continuous operation. With that said, using the same viscosity in both axles makes sense from a cost perspective.

Yep, I meant 75w-140, not 145.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

Is the sensor mechanically different on the JL Dana 44 than the JK? Could the sensor from a JK D44 actuator work in a JL? Something like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DANA-HOLDI...0e-3e48-4512-9c73-78fe8f3b617c&epid=824280451

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