Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44

[CarbonSteel]

Excellent! Happy to see it.

Your contact cleaner advice seems to have worked to remove the gear oil without damaging the PCB. I cleaned all of the goop from behind the sensor too so I am glad I removed it for the potting. These axles create a ton of iron...

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[nU7OuxIx]

No issues. You can use some red Loctite on them.

Is red loctite a good idea to use over here? Red is permanent and is a pain to get the bolt out if you ever have to. On the other hand, I'm sure it sees a good deal of vibration so maybe it's a good choice.

Even on the diff cover bolts, I would be hesitant to use loctite on them. Maybe blue, but it's going to be a headache if you use red and break a bolt trying to get it out.

 

[neil]

Is red loctite a good idea to use over here? Red is permanent and is a pain to get the bolt out if you ever have to. On the other hand, I'm sure it sees a good deal of vibration so maybe it's a good choice.

Even on the diff cover bolts, I would be hesitant to use loctite on them. Maybe blue, but it's going to be a headache if you use red and break a bolt trying to get it out.

My new diff covers from Dana came with new bolts with red loctite applied.

I did not apply any more loctite, usually if I use it, I do sparingly, i've seen different application rates of loctite, a couple threads coverage is good to start, not the entire length of the threads unless specified.

Bolts break. This was the Dana supplied 10.9 about 2 quarter turns into, flange still couple mils from seating. Using a 3/8 drive low profile hand ratchet (about 4" long). Only about 3-4 mils bit so it came out easy.

 

[nU7OuxIx]

My new diff covers from Dana came with new bolts with red loctite applied.

Really? I'm shocked that they're using red loctite as much as they are around the jeep. My experience with bolts breaking was on a YJ and it was mostly due to rust....which is why I have a strong dislike for red loctite.

Being that red loctite is supposed to weld the threads in place and you need heat to remove it....how do you know which bolts have loctite on them? Do you apply heat regardless, or just slowly remove them and say a prayer?

So maybe ignore what I said about using red loctite but just be aware.

 

[neil]

Really? I'm shocked that they're using red loctite as much as they are around the jeep. My experience with bolts breaking was on a YJ and it was mostly due to rust....which is why I have a strong dislike for red loctite.

Being that red loctite is supposed to weld the threads in place and you need heat to remove it....how do you know which bolts have loctite on them? Do you apply heat regardless, or just slowly remove them and say a prayer?

So maybe ignore what I said about using red loctite but just be aware.

I don't apply heat unless it's being a pita. It's a feel thing.

I assume it's red loctite. it's red and on the threads.

Like you, I don't care for it. But, just depends on the application.

 

[HoboJeep]

I got this project done this weekend. Thanks so much to @chevymitchell and others for the great directions and information. Even with my limited mechanical abilities IT WORKED!

Rear sensor had oil in it. About 1/4 full maybe. Drilled it, drained and cleaned it with the CRC QD electronic cleaner. Front sensor was clean. This was at almost 19,000 miles.

Tested the lockers Friday night. They worked but seemed very slow at locking/unlocking. When I tested this afternoon they locked/unlocked much faster. I have more confidence in them not failing me now.

Thanks again to everyone with the advice and pictures!

 

[HungryHound]

Just remember these modules are irreplaceable so if they get lost in the mail you got an interesting problem on your hands to get it sorted out.....

Then again our mail is probably safe now that the election has passed

I wonder if these Dana axle assemblies are made in Paris, TN?

 

[HungryHound]

Thanks again for this topic!

Thanks to the very clear explanations of the first message AND the video, I managed to make my back.

Although for the moment it's the front that is broken (my dealer is not motivated to do something, justice will take over!), I put the cable of Z_Automotive (on the front) and this removed the witnesses on my dashboard.

This morning, when I took off the rear, I already had some oil in it, I drilled the three holes, cleaned it with fein cleaner, put the seal on and reassembled it this morning. Not yet checked if it's good or not, normally I had no more lights on my dashboard. I hope my modification didn't make the situation worse when I cleaned the oil inside.

Anyway.

I noticed that with a simple "Torx T20" screwdriver it's possible to remove the screw from the part WITHOUT touching the "Cap bolt" (which is a plus for me, I had a lot of stress having to remove these two bolts)

As mentioned above by a member, I managed to clean 100% of the "pot" injector in my kitchen with hot tap water, perhaps this information could be useful to others.

Based on my luck, the less bolts I touch, the better. Thanks for the tip.

 

[HungryHound]

So I performed this little nerve racking task today. I had been wanting a small drill press and so this need was the catalyst for buying it. I just did not trust my self to drill it free-hand--especially with these modules being "unobtainium".

The good news that with the information provided by @chevymitchell and @neil the task was not over the top, but it did take me about 5 minutes per hole because I kept repeatedly checking progress and so there were no "oh crap" moments.

The bad news is the rear module was about 50% full of gear oil and it was a b!tch getting it out. I used a can of CRC QD Electronic Cleaner and I can only hope that I got all of it out of the module. I think that I did and now fingers and toes crossed the cleaner did not cause any other issues.

It is my hope that since I have not used the lockers in since sometime in 2019 and that I have not had any errors appear in the system that the rear module will be ok. I have about 24 hours to wait before I will know for sure.

Despite me dumping the oil at 20K in the rear axle and thoroughly cleaning the drain plug , it was completely packed with iron goop again. I am at a loss as to WTF is going on with these Dana 44 Advantek axles and the iron generation levels they have.

I will soon be re-gearing to 4.88 and before @rustyshakelford does it, I will be sending the new gears to Detroit Speed as @chevymitchell recommended. I have never seen an axle shed iron like these axles do--it is a serious mystery, but hopefully the polishing will help.

A before and after photo:

4.88!? Geez....what size tires you going to? I'm probably naively hoping that with the high torque at 0rpm and the regenerative braking that I can put 37s or (sproing!) 40s on the 4xE without regearing it or beefing up the mechanical brakes. My cheap ass will wait until the stock tires are worn before attempting this feat so , hopefully, some other maniac will try it first and report back. I am going to pot the sensors soon after receipt of said 4xE unless Jeep fixes the problem first.

 

[HungryHound]

Is red loctite a good idea to use over here? Red is permanent and is a pain to get the bolt out if you ever have to. On the other hand, I'm sure it sees a good deal of vibration so maybe it's a good choice.

Even on the diff cover bolts, I would be hesitant to use loctite on them. Maybe blue, but it's going to be a headache if you use red and break a bolt trying to get it out.

I personally wouldn't use any type of thread lock on the cover bolts. Proper torque sets the bolts in tension so they don't move. I plan to use blue on the sensor bolt.

 

[CarbonSteel]

4.88!? Geez....what size tires you going to? I'm probably naively hoping that with the high torque at 0rpm and the regenerative braking that I can put 37s or (sproing!) 40s on the 4xE without regearing it or beefing up the mechanical brakes. My cheap ass will wait until the stock tires are worn before attempting this feat so , hopefully, some other maniac will try it first and report back. I am going to pot the sensors soon after receipt of said 4xE unless Jeep fixes the problem first.

I have 35's on it and 4.88 will get me back to where I was with 33's and 4.10 gears plus a little bit more.

 

[DanW]

It'd sure be nice if we could figure out how to source these parts and do an end around on FCA if they can't do it themselves.

But it will take some smarter people around here than me to do that.

 

[LDJD79]

Knocked this out this past Friday. 24k and some change on the Jeep. I had gears installed about 15k miles back. No fault issues but wanted to do this before the issues started. Front sensor was clear and rear sensor was half full. After drilling the holes I used contact cleaner to rinse out the rear sensor. Everything works fine after reinstalling. @chevymitchell Thanks for the write up on this process. Hopefully they will be trouble free now that it’s done.

 

[neil]

I wonder if these Dana axle assemblies are made in Paris, TN?

Small town, find a worker and set up an eBay shop, haha

I did my wife's rear (har) today, her jeeps rear.

I did not use loctite on the diff cover bolts, as there was some residue, I just snugged up to the washer without mashing the snot outta it. I did use blue on the sensor bolt.

FWIW, one should also pay attention when reconnecting the sensor, the harness has a lock that is red that snaps down after you sit it.

Also, one container of the potting material is enough for four sensors.

 

[CarbonSteel]

It'd sure be nice if we could figure out how to source these parts and do an end around on FCA if they can't do it themselves.

But it will take some smarter people around here than me to do that.

I have contacted TE twice and I only received crickets. @wibornz railed on Dana until they told him to go away. This has to be one of the dumbest things I've ever seen.

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