Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44

[HoboJeep]

Guess I need to do this also. Hard to believe you cannot buy just the sensors and replace them.

I would like to wait a little bit longer. Only have a few thousand miles on the new diff fluid.

I'm finding out Jeep ownership turns you into a mechanic. I never worked on a new vehicle so much.

Ya' ll are reusing the diff cover bolts, right? Looks like the TQ specs said to replace. Also, I didn't see a TQ spec for the Cap Bolts (maybe missed it).

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[HoboJeep]

I found my answers on page 7. Yes reuse the diff cover bolts. I thought that was OK.

One remaining question. From looking at the Spicer TQ sheets, I am thinking TQ the front and rear bearing cap bolts to 70 ft/lbs. What are others doing ?

 

[neil]

I found my answers on page 7. Yes reuse the diff cover bolts. I thought that was OK.

One remaining question. From looking at the Spicer TQ sheets, I am thinking TQ the front and rear bearing cap bolts to 70 ft/lbs. What are others doing ?

I left mine alone and used a 4” t20 in a 1/4 drive

 

[word302]

I found my answers on page 7. Yes reuse the diff cover bolts. I thought that was OK.

One remaining question. From looking at the Spicer TQ sheets, I am thinking TQ the front and rear bearing cap bolts to 70 ft/lbs. What are others doing ?

Yes, 70 ft/lbs.

 

[Ospreyfe55]

I own a 20' JLU Rubi and just found this thread. I just barley have 1k on the odometer but will be looking in to potting these sensors. Couple of questions though since I cant view the video. 1st how much and what type of Diff fluid do I need for both axles? 2nd, Im a little confused on the potting process, drill 2 holes in the clear cover and only one on the backside? Do I start injecting the material on the backside and then fill under the clear cover?

 

[SwissSteph]

On message 1 there is an excellent video that shows exactly how to do it. I did it for one and yesterday for my second one (the front axle has just been, at last, changed after 5 months of discussion with Jeep + the help of a lawyer)

I'll put it all back together tomorrow

 

[chevymitchell]

I own a 20' JLU Rubi and just found this thread. I just barley have 1k on the odometer but will be looking in to potting these sensors. Couple of questions though since I cant view the video. 1st how much and what type of Diff fluid do I need for both axles? 2nd, Im a little confused on the potting process, drill 2 holes in the clear cover and only one on the backside? Do I start injecting the material on the backside and then fill under the clear cover?

Follow the owners manual for fluid types.

Please watch the video. I believe it will answer your questions completely.

 

[Ospreyfe55]

Follow the owners manual for fluid types.

Please watch the video. I believe it will answer your questions completely.

Thanks, I was able to watch the video last night, it must have been the work firewall. I ordered the potting material in the link you provided. Going to look at the manual and pick up the diff fluid so I can try to tackle the project this weekend. Really appreciate your insight on this.

 

[Ospreyfe55]

Good evening everyone.

I took the time today to run through the potting of my locker sensors. This seems to be a very frustrating point of failure for all of us. I have experienced it myself.

Here are the DIY steps you can follow to properly pot the sensors.

**Keep in mind the amount of time required for the potting material to cure. Tacky at 3-5 hours. 24 hour full cure. Best to do both sensors at the same time when you can wait, at least, overnight.

Also, please understand that this is a temporary fix to an issue we all hope FCA is going to remedy. Hopefully there is, at a minimum, a part number for this sensor we can order through Dealers and Distributors**

Jeep JL TQ Specs: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/complete-torque-values-for-jeep-jl-wrangler/

Tools Required:

• 1/4" Ratchet
• 1/4" Drive T20 Bit
• 3/8" Drive Ratchet
• 3/8" Drive 10mm
• 1/2" Drive Ratchet
• 1/2" Drive 15mm
• Drill
• 3/32" Drill Bit
• Flathead Screwdriver
• Drain Pan

Parts Required:

• Teflon Tape
• Electrical Tape
• Sharpe/Marker
• Acetone (Optional)
• Red Loctite
• Dielectric Grease
• Shop towels or Microfiber Cloth
• 832HD Potting Compound (25mL)
  • https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals...locphy=9009606&hvtargid=pla-376934479130&th=1

These steps are the same for the Front and Rear Axles.

• Using a 3/8" Drive ratchet, drain the diff fluid into your drain pan. Wait for the diff to finish draining. Clean the drain plug and apply teflon tape to the threads. Reinstall at this time.

• Using a 10mm socket, remove the diff cover bolts.

• Using a flathead (or finger tips), remove diff cover.
• Remove the reusable diff gasket.
• Using a 15mm socket, remove the R/H side Cap Bolts.
• Remove Cap Bolts with alignment plate. Keep the bolts with the plate so they go back in the same spots they came out of.

• Using a T20 bit, remove the screw holding the Locker Sensor in place.

• Using a flathead (or fingers), disengage connector safety clip.
• Remove Connector and Sensor.

• Wipe sensor off using a shop towel or microfiber cloth.
• Mark sensor as shown in the picture with a sharpe.

• Using a 3/32" drill bit, drill 3 holes as shown in the pictures. Be VERY careful with this step as the PCB (Circuit Board) is located very close to the clear cap on the sensor. Drill at a very low speed, with light pressure. We need 3 holes for this work properly. One is used to inject potting compound into the top side of the PCB, one for the bottom side of the PCB, and one to let air escape as we are injecting potting compound. Without an air escape, there will be air pockets and this whole thing will be for nothing.

• Inject potting compound as shown in the video. Once you inject the compound in the bottom hole, you will notice the air being pushed out first and then a rush of compound will come out when it's full.

• Once the sensor is full, wipe the top side off with a shop towel.
• Apply electrical tape over the two holes and set the sensor down on its top.

• Wipe off any excess potting compound and fill the void in the back of the sensor with more compound. Let sit for 3-5 hours. Once tacky, clean the sensor using Acetone so there isn't any left over potting material on the outside of the sensor once fully cured.

• Once cleaned, let sit for 24 hours. (At least 12 hours before reinstallation.)

• Once cured, install sensor in reverse order. (Use Dielectric Grease on the connector and Loctite on the T20 screw.)
• Install alignment plate and R/H side Cap Bolts. Be sure to TQ to spec. The TQ specs are different front to rear.
• Install Diff Cover.
• Service Diff.
• Test Locker System.

Do you think it will be ok to run 75w-140 synthetic gear oil in both the front & rear axles? I have a 20' Rubicon. I'm also not sure if I need any addatives, but my guess is the 75w-140 will be ok?

 

[chevymitchell]

Do you think it will be ok to run 75w-140 synthetic gear oil in both the front & rear axles? I have a 20' Rubicon. I'm also not sure if I need any addatives, but my guess is the 75w-140 will be ok?

Run full synthetic 75w-90 up front and 75w-140 in the rear. No additives required.

 

[FinnCustomKnives]

Do you think it will be ok to run 75w-140 synthetic gear oil in both the front & rear axles? I have a 20' Rubicon. I'm also not sure if I need any addatives, but my guess is the 75w-140 will be ok?

Run full synthetic 75w-90 up front and 75w-140 in the rear. No additives required.

FWIW the owners manual states 75w-140 in the m200 rear. For a rubi with the m220 rear, it's front as well, it states 75w-85 no additives is the proper application.

Is what I am seeing wrong?

 

[word302]

FWIW the owners manual states 75w-140 in the m200 rear. For a rubi with the m220 rear, it's front as well, it states 75w-85 no additives is the proper application.

Is what I am seeing wrong?

And just to make matters even clearer Dana recommends 75w-140 in both the 210 and 220, which is what I'm running.

 

[RubiconToad]

 

[FinnCustomKnives]

And just to make matters even clearer Dana recommends 75w-140 in both the 210 and 220, which is what I'm running.

So then Jeep is saying to run a thinner fluid, in contrast to Dana Spicer to pick up MPG's?!

 

[word302]

So then Jeep is saying to run a thinner fluid, in contrast to Dana Spicer to pick up MPG's?!

I’m not really sure that’s the case as the front diff doesn’t spin in 2wd unless of course you have the auto transfer case.

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