Load range C vs D vs E

[Ratbert]

I don't agree. The problem is this is all a matter of opinion. My top tire brands are Goodyear, Toyo, and Continental. I would take a Duratrac RT or Territory MT over anything Cooper branded. The problem is that what matters most to each of us is different. Weight matters A LOT to me - which rules out Mickeys and Wildpeaks...and a lot of others that I don't even care to try. Ridge Grapplers are not a smart choice for the weather in my region. KO2/KO3 are acceptable to me, just unremarkable and priced WAY too high for their performance - and that's the case for a lot of other options. But this is all just my experience. Everyone else will have different experience.

You'd be shocked at how light my 37" Mickey Thompson BBATs Ds feel in comparison to the same spec (but smaller) KO2s. I wasn't expecting that...at all.

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[Flip]

I run 33x10" E load Yokohama's. The E load was the only choice in this tire. I can honestly say I didn't notice any difference in ride, comfort, or handling. I have noticed off-road when airing down the sidewall is so thick I essentially have to air down less to prevent the sidewall from folding or creasing. For me and the trails I run this actually isn't a bad thing. It makes airing down and airing back up easier for me. If I was running 35x12.5 or larger, doing serious rock crawling and wanted them to conform, I don't believe E load would be the best option. I don't understand why so many manufacturers are only offering their off-road tires in E-load. That's obviously not what every consumer wants.

 

[Old Dogger]

All of my Wrangler tires have been C Rated.

 

[Tokenwasp]

I keep looking for 35’s with a load C or D rating and it seems next to impossible. If I do go with 35’s it seems like all the tires are E rated and weigh around 70lbs.

I think (please feel free to educate me) a C rated tire will ride a bit smoother and deform better aired down with the weight of my Jeep. I want this. I currently have 315 falkin wildpeaks atw3 and they are E rated. If I air down to 20psi you can barely tell…I have to be closer to 15 to get deformation.

Also would really like some RT tires if I go 35. And my very short list is the radar renegades but again these are an E rated tire.

Toyo AT3: C rating available in 35" sizes and D rating available for 315/70R17
Toyo RT: C rating available for for 315/70R17 (but a max pressure of 35 lbs - not sure why so low)
Toyo RT Trail: D rating available for 315/70R17

 

[GATORB8]

Toyo AT3: C rating available in 35" sizes and D rating available for 315/70R17
Toyo RT: C rating available for for 315/70R17 (but a max pressure of 35 lbs - not sure why so low)
Toyo RT Trail: D rating available for 315/70R17

The 35 psi is a part of the load rating. You can run the same PSI in the C and the D for the same load capacity.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

I have had great luck with BFG KO2 37s D.

 

[Aonarch]

Its hella shady and verges on false advertising. At least do the weird thing that Falken did with the Wildpeak and make up a new term RT.

Go check out Ford's advertising and marketing for the Bronco Sasquatch.

They constantly pitch the MT tires and go as far as to call them mud terrains as well.

"STANDARD 35 INCH MUD TERRAINS"

The Goodyear Territory's MT stands for Maximum Traction, which I totally agree is very misleading to the consumer and shouldn't be done.

 

[gato]

I know i sound like a broken record but i switch between two sets of tires/wheels all the time, one set weighs 88lbs and the other is 108lbs . There is no significant difference in how they feel in daily driving. Mpg is essentially the same as is handling and road feel.

I'm sorry, but this is simply not possible physically. Adding 80 lbs in rotating mass, where most of that mass is at the edge of the tire diameter to a vehicle has massive consequences on acceleration, braking and shock performance.

I have done this on my prior JKUR switch from AT/Winter to MT tires for wheeling (in my case +12lbs only per corner) and it was a very significant impact. MPG dropped 1.5MPG (I don't care), but braking and acceleration suffered a lot. (And I race cars, so I am very keyed in to what is causing changes in vehicle dynamics).

Weight is a *HUGE* factor. You should always try to run the lightest possible tire/wheel combo that meet your requirements. Extra tire weight should only be tolerated if there is a clear and needed benefit.

 

[stretch-bsn]

I have had great luck with BFG KO2 37s D.

What are you geared at? I was going to run the ko2 at a C because it’s light and I’m undergeared

 

[Graphite JL]

I went with Toyo Open Country AT3's for mine. They are C rated and weigh 59lbs for a 35x12.50r17. I will say though, that on an 8.5" rim, they measure close to 33.5", a bit smaller than I was looking for.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

What are you geared at? I was going to run the ko2 at a C because it’s light and I’m undergeared

3.6L, auto, 4.88. I ran Load D back when it was 4.10 as well. I air down when off-roading so wanted the extra protection of the D vs the C. If my Jeep was just a pavement daily driver I might have considered C.

 

[Graphite JL]

Go check out Ford's advertising and marketing for the Bronco Sasquatch.

They constantly pitch the MT tires and go as far as to call them mud terrains as well.

"STANDARD 35 INCH MUD TERRAINS"

The Goodyear Territory's MT stands for Maximum Traction, which I totally agree is very misleading to the consumer and shouldn't be done.

Go on any Bronco forum and see how hated those tires are as well. I looked into them when I was tire shopping since they are very cheaply priced for a tire of that size, but all of the Bronco forums had the same feedback, that they puncture very easily and flat tires are extremely common. Most owners couldn't wait till they wore out and could replace them.

 

[Graphite JL]

I'm sorry, but this is simply not possible physically. Adding 80 lbs in rotating mass, where most of that mass is at the edge of the tire diameter to a vehicle has massive consequences on acceleration, braking and shock performance.

I have done this on my prior JKUR switch from AT/Winter to MT tires for wheeling (in my case +12lbs only per corner) and it was a very significant impact. MPG dropped 1.5MPG (I don't care), but braking and acceleration suffered a lot. (And I race cars, so I am very keyed in to what is causing changes in vehicle dynamics).

Weight is a *HUGE* factor. You should always try to run the lightest possible tire/wheel combo that meet your requirements. Extra tire weight should only be tolerated if there is a clear and needed benefit.

A heavy tire can break parts a lot easier too. I used to run 35" TruXus MTs, a very heavy tire, I am familiar with breaking driveline components. lol

 

[stretch-bsn]

3.6L, auto, 4.88. I ran Load D back when it was 4.10 as well. I air down when off-roading so wanted the extra protection of the D vs the C. If my Jeep was just a pavement daily drive I might have considered C.

Gotcha… I have 392 axles under my sport s and I’m only running 3.73 gears. That’s why I was going the 63 lbs C’s… currently 315’s falkins that are about 73lbs…I figured pulling 40lbs of rolling weight on “37’s” that measure between 35.5”-36” I could squeeze by until a regear but I think a net loss of 12lbs (70lbs -D vs current 73lbs) is pushing too far? I dunno lol…probably stick with some meaty MT 35’s

 

[kah.mun.rah]

IMO the friction of a 35" MT might put more stress on your Jeep than a 37" AT, even though there is a slight difference in the weight. I could be wrong.

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