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Load range C vs D vs E

Aonarch

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Discount says they're mud terrains. Tire Rack says they're all terrains.

They visually look like an A/T to me.
Yeah they are a very mild A/T and are not 3PMSF rated either. The tread likes to chunk off off-road and in gravel. They are lightweight, good on MPG, and ride well on road.

They are a pure marketing tire.
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stretch-bsn

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I think it looks kinda of goofy and needs 37’s.
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Well…ain’t that the constant problem. Bet you get 37’s and in 2-5 years 38-39’s would be looking “more” fitting lol 😂
 

TheRaven

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Discount says they're mud terrains. Tire Rack says they're all terrains.

They visually look like an A/T to me.
They absolutely are an A/T. Specifically an "off-road A/T" or what some now call an R/T. They've been phenomenal on and off-road on both my JLU and Trail Boss. I have no complaints at all (other than the stupid name of course) and have had zero issues.

To add some additional info - my brother spent a month in Moab with five then-new Broncos testing new products he was working on, and had nothing but great things to say about the tires. He's the one who talked me into trying them initially - said they were head and shoulders above the stock KO2s that he was used to on the Wranglers.
 

James Westfall

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To the person that was certain you need a load range E, or at least a load range D tire for it to survive offroad, I don't think that is the case at all. When a tire manufacturer makes a 33" or 35" tire, what do you think they are making it for. I would think most of the people that buy those tires buy them for street use, with a few that buy them for offroad. When that same manufacturer makes a 40" or 42" tire, what do you think they are making that tire size for. I would think that almost every single person that is buying a 40" or 42" tire is buying them for offroad, but still a few buy them for street use.

Then look at the Toyo MT for example. 33" and 35" Toyo MTs are only available in load range E. 40" and 42" Toyo MTs are only available in load range C. So why would they build a tire size that is almost exclusively used for offroad in a load range rating that "won't survive offroad?" They wouldn't. A load range C Toyo MT is one tough tire. I've been using Toyo MTs for at least the last 20 years on numerous different vehicles, and I've never had a flat with a Toyo MT. I've had numerous flats with both BFG and Goodyear tires, the two weakest tires in the industry if you ask me.
I can add - been wheeling on C-range tires for over a decade, never been a problem. You don't need E's unless you suck at picking lines. C-range tires conform better too, which results in better traction in many situations.
 

jadmt

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Well…ain’t that the constant problem. Bet you get 37’s and in 2-5 years 38-39’s would be looking “more” fitting lol 😂
I want to but I have had this dilemma for many years and always end up sticking with 35’s. I have 4.10’s and it works great with 35’s. I tried my buddy’s 37s and it was just ok. I have done moab trails and rubicon and dusy with 35’s and 2.5 lift. i just like the looks of 37’s better tho.
Jeep Wrangler JL Load range C vs D vs E 4055311428985232098
 

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Snacktime

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E rated, E rated or E rated... There is a reason you don't buy C rated factory take offs tires from BFG or Goodyear if you wheel. Plugging and changing tires is the most common trail repair when doing group runs with factory vehicles. The worst 33-35" tire you can buy for wheeling is the Goodyear Wrangler MT! Fantastic traction, great road manners! Offroad they throw rocks, hold rocks and make holes in themselves from holding rocks. Constant flat tires....

I buy the cheapest E rated, true to size and decent tread pattern tire for wheeling. Run them 2-3 years and get something else. For the road vehicles they get expensive E rated nice riding ATs that last 60-80K miles.
 

c20040215

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E rated, E rated or E rated... There is a reason you don't buy C rated factory take offs tires from BFG or Goodyear if you wheel. Plugging and changing tires is the most common trail repair when doing group runs with factory vehicles. The worst 33-35" tire you can buy for wheeling is the Goodyear Wrangler MT! Fantastic traction, great road manners! Offroad they throw rocks, hold rocks and make holes in themselves from holding rocks. Constant flat tires....

I buy the cheapest E rated, true to size and decent tread pattern tire for wheeling. Run them 2-3 years and get something else. For the road vehicles they get expensive E rated nice riding ATs that last 60-80K miles.
I wheel but I only buy C or D rated tires. Never had any tire related issues. I guess I have been extremely lucky. I guess if you really want strong sidewall, F load should be the one to get, why stop at E?
 

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That is a crazy heavy tire
Yeah that's Wildpeaks for ya. Great tire in terms of performance but my God the weight. No idea why they're so frikin heavy.
 

Snacktime

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I wheel but I only buy C or D rated tires. Never had any tire related issues. I guess I have been extremely lucky. I guess if you really want strong sidewall, F load should be the one to get, why stop at E?
Once upon a time moving up a load rating got you an additional Kevlar belt in the tire. And yes you want the stronger side wall... People wonder why? Sharp rocks, impacts in the desert and snow wheeling the sidewall is contacting the terrain.

The market has changed and some manufactures are making killer C & D rated tires like the Baja Boss X. But this thread isn't discussing which tires survived KOH this year.
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