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Jumping battery if alone?

Arterius2

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@Arterius2

Guys have tried unsuccessfully using jump start boxes to start the JL/JLU for almost 3 years now....

....AND, regardless of the brand jump box.... regardless of whether they are highly rated or not, more often then not, they will not be able to jump start a JL/JLU.

Yes, if you separate the batteries out, your chances improve..

So, your video makes me chuckle... really chuckle..
I don't have that shitty motorcycle battery in my 2.0 and I jump start mine just fine with my battery booster, which is a super capacitor type. So no, not really chuckle.

But your reply, makes me chuckle, really chuckle..
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OldGuyNewJeep

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Noco is actually notoriously bad for the price they are asking.
Project Farm on YT did exensive testing on battery boosters and Noco consistently did worst among the bunch.

I enjoyed this video. Interesting stuff.
 

WranglerMan

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I ran my main crank battery down running radio and lights and got that “ click of death” a simple push of my boost button from my Genesis dual system got me rolling down the road with zero issues :like:
 

txj2go

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Old post but once again I'm trying to figure out how to dig myself out of a hole when my battery dies as it did on a mountain this weekend
I take it your 2018 has not had the flash update?
You can read a mind-numbing amount of stuff on this site regarding the original computer logic of the 2018, which is revised by the "flash" that people mention. If you have the flash then there shouldn't be any problems using a good jump pack, and I stress good because they are certainly not all created equal. If you don't have the flash then you can add a jumper wire within the fuse block and then a good jump pack should work.
My 2018 has the flash, and when I replaced the original battery recently I permanently disconnected the little battery. I don't own a jump starter but before my next solo camping trip I will probably buy one. From the tests I've read the Tacklife T8 is one of the best reasonably priced ones.
 

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I take it your 2018 has not had the flash update?
You can read a mind-numbing amount of stuff on this site regarding the original computer logic of the 2018, which is revised by the "flash" that people mention. If you have the flash then there shouldn't be any problems using a good jump pack, and I stress good because they are certainly not all created equal. If you don't have the flash then you can add a jumper wire within the fuse block and then a good jump pack should work.
My 2018 has the flash, and when I replaced the original battery recently I permanently disconnected the little battery. I don't own a jump starter but before my next solo camping trip I will probably buy one. From the tests I've read the Tacklife T8 is one of the best reasonably priced ones.
@txj2go
@swozey

Having had TSB 18-092-19 applied to your 2018 JL is not going to negate the problems in regard to starting a stock dual battery system with a power pack.

For sure though, anyone with a 208 JL/JLU is missing the boat, so to speak if they do not have TSB 18-092-19 applied to their vehicle.

You can buy the bestest 8-) , "good jump pack" and have at it with that, and more often then not the JL/JLU/JT will not be able to be jump started... Sure, on occasionally it will but......

Anyone that wants to have a better experience with a "jump pacK" should have a top notch jump pack and know how to separate out the batteries... and armed with that knowledge, separate and jump with jump pack

.
 

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swozey

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Thanks for the TSB mention I hadn't heard of it, will have to check. Also digging through that noco video..

I take it your 2018 has not had the flash update?
You can read a mind-numbing amount of stuff on this site regarding the original computer logic of the 2018, which is revised by the "flash" that people mention. If you have the flash then there shouldn't be any problems using a good jump pack, and I stress good because they are certainly not all created equal. If you don't have the flash then you can add a jumper wire within the fuse block and then a good jump pack should work.
My 2018 has the flash, and when I replaced the original battery recently I permanently disconnected the little battery. I don't own a jump starter but before my next solo camping trip I will probably buy one. From the tests I've read the Tacklife T8 is one of the best reasonably priced ones.
 

txj2go

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Having had TSB 18-092-19 applied to your 2018 JL is not going to negate the problems in regard to starting a stock dual battery system with a power pack..
If a person has the TSB, or if they don't they could easily add the jumper wire. So then what happens when they hook up a normal jump pack? The 2 batteries should be acting in parallel, the computer would be happy, so shouldn't it then route power from the jump pack to the starter? (Now that we are talking about having the TSB applied, the discussion would apply to all JL.)
 

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Been reading thru this thread and thinking about purchasing an Audew jump starter. I've noticed that most, if not all of the discussion here is focused on starting engines with the dual battery ESS, but just curious if the same problems exist with the 3.6L eTorque configuration. Anyone have experience/recommendations for this?
 

OldGuyNewJeep

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If a person has the TSB, or if they don't they could easily add the jumper wire. So then what happens when they hook up a normal jump pack? The 2 batteries should be acting in parallel, the computer would be happy, so shouldn't it then route power from the jump pack to the starter? (Now that we are talking about having the TSB applied, the discussion would apply to all JL.)
As @Rhinebeck01 alluded to, the TSB and jumper alone isn’t likely to do the trick. Why? Because that AUX is still connected and the jumper pack will be connected to two batteries.

If you take the one extra step of disconnecting the AUX I suspect a jumper would work. Many of us run this way (Jumper always in place and battery switch on the AUX negative to keep it disconnected. We also use SSS or Tazer to keep ESS disabled).
 

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The most direct way to get a 3.6L to crank is if the places where the Aux battery connect to have adequate power, right?

And the best chance you have of getting a power pack to crank your 3.6L is if it doesn't deplete itself charging either/both of the batteries before a crank is attempted, right? After all, we normally stick that power pack on the main battery while the rig's at rest and wait, for the sole purposes of it charging the Aux battery (which also charges the main battery) as the two batteries are connected at all times but an instant at cold crank and during ESS events, right?

And the Aux battery is known for problems, right?

Given these facts, if stranded, why not disconnect the Aux battery from N1 in the Power Distribution Center and in its place attach the positive lead of the power pack there. Additionally, attach the negative side of the power pack to first disconnected wires that lead to the main battery's negative terminal.

Now, when the rig checks pre-crank for the charged Aux battery it sees the power pack and attempts to crank from it, whose maximum power is available, not depleting itself charging your batteries first, nor you having to wait.

I'm not saying your power pack, fully charged, may have adequate power to crank the rig. I'm saying this technique may give you the best chance it does.

Thereafter, if cranked, disconnect the positive side of power pack from N1 and reattach the Aux battery's positive here, and disconnect the power pack's negative side from the disconnected cable off the main battery's negative post and reattach those cables back on to the post so if the batteries can accept charge, the alternator will attempt to provide it.

TSB 18-092-19 is great. It increases your chances of getting going your Aux battery is dead but your main isn't. But isn't my approach suitable to all situations if you have a power pack?
 

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txj2go

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Given these facts, if stranded, why not disconnect the Aux battery from N1 in the Power Distribution Center and in its place attach the positive lead of the power pack there. Additionally, attach the negative side of the power pack to first disconnected wires that lead to the main battery's negative terminal.
That's a lot of stuff to do while setting in a parking lot, on the side of the road or in the outback. There isn't much space down there in the fuse area where the posts are, most of those jump packs have pretty big clamps. Plus a lot of JL owners wouldn't have the tools or ability to start disconnecting wires. My contention was if you have to flash or if you have the jumper, then you just connect to the main battery terminals.

In my case I have the flash and I have permanently disconnected the small battery so I should be able to connect to the battery terminals and go. For some reason that I haven't determined yet my ESS has never functioned so I don't have to worry about it. And since I don't have to worry about it I have no incentive to troubleshoot it.
 

Gee-pah

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That's a lot of stuff to do while setting in a parking lot, on the side of the road or in the outback. There isn't much space down there in the fuse area where the posts are, most of those jump packs have pretty big clamps. Plus a lot of JL owners wouldn't have the tools or ability to start disconnecting wires. My contention was if you have to flash or if you have the jumper, then you just connect to the main battery terminals.

In my case I have the flash and I have permanently disconnected the small battery so I should be able to connect to the battery terminals and go. For some reason that I haven't determined yet my ESS has never functioned so I don't have to worry about it. And since I don't have to worry about it I have no incentive to troubleshoot it.
It does require some prep, like cabling that addresses the clearance issues you describe in the PDC. I have some wing nuts on the high amp fuses, carefully torqued to a position that no two wing nuts could touch and make unwanted connections--thereby eliminating the need for a wrench at the PDC.

Yeah, some cable with an eyelit and one end and ability to connect a jumper cable at the other would probably be advised for the positive side of the connection.

One of these could handle the negative side so no tools are required.


Jeep Wrangler JL Jumping battery if alone? 1618019720548


I get that you've customized your battery situation. I'm writing to how to best improve the chances of a power pack turning the engine over for those with the more stock electric system 3.6L JL.
 

txj2go

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I'm writing to how to best improve the chances of a power pack turning the engine over for those with the more stock electric system 3.6L JL.
I'm curious about that too.
 

dennis2society

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Hey guys - been stalking this forum for a while - I value it a lot. Wanted to make my first contribution.

I have a 2020 2.0 with ESS. Battery dead for 2 days - I was wfhing in it but didn't turn the engine on for a week. Lesson learned...

I bought this jumper model as emergency from Amazon and it worked. Wanted to share specs with group as possible minimum reqs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085HCWD8...abc_S9TFXT444ZY5S3QSZ364?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Not the latest in terms of inputs and charging but it worked great when I hooked the red to the ess battery.

As others have mentioned, the trick was to set the red on the first post of the ess, under the plastic box. I watched a Facebook video someone else here added - super helpful. Tried it the regular way a few times amd it turned on the lights but wouldn't start the truck.

Hope this helps.
 

Arterius2

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Hey guys - been stalking this forum for a while - I value it a lot. Wanted to make my first contribution.

I have a 2020 2.0 with ESS. Battery dead for 2 days - I was wfhing in it but didn't turn the engine on for a week. Lesson learned...

I bought this jumper model as emergency from Amazon and it worked. Wanted to share specs with group as possible minimum reqs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085HCWD8...abc_S9TFXT444ZY5S3QSZ364?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Not the latest in terms of inputs and charging but it worked great when I hooked the red to the ess battery.

As others have mentioned, the trick was to set the red on the first post of the ess, under the plastic box. I watched a Facebook video someone else here added - super helpful. Tried it the regular way a few times amd it turned on the lights but wouldn't start the truck.

Hope this helps.
Can you clarify what you mean by "set the red on the first post of the ess"
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