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AndySpill

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Deleted my last post after doing a bit more reading.
Why do I need the SGW extension cable.
You don't. Rather, IMHO you want it, especially in light of your expression of willingness to spend where spending is wise.

Here's the thing, were the adjustments you made with Jscan a one time thing I could see being without the extension cable. But it is entirely possible that you may need to reconfigure things using Jscan, and put them back they way the where, after, (and because of) some dealer visit where some aspect of your service erased the information you configured using Jscan prior.
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If you install a JL tazer it will connect to the 8 pin and 12 pin factory cable that you disconnected from the security gateway, not first an FCA 12+8 cable (i.e. what I think you call the orange cable)
as appears below:

1762540081019-e9.webp



In fact, if you also decide to use Jscan (on top of a JL Tazer,) and one of Jscan's recommended Bluetooth ODB2 readers, as long as you have that Tazer plugged in (in addition to the features it offers it is (and because it is) also a security gateway bypass) you will be able to plug that recommended Bluetooth ODB2 reader directly into the factory ODB2 near your left knee and use Jscan to not only read but write changes.

You only need to plug the Jscan recommended Bluetooth ODB2 reader temporarily into the orange cable above (which if you use sucah a cable plugs into the factory 12+8 cables that you disconnected from the factory security gateway, if you do not have a security gateway bypass, like a Tazer or ECRI device, and you wish to be able to write Jscan changes.



I've never felt the need to have a Tazer mount. The factory 12+8 cables and JL Tazer tuck behind for me without ever falling down. "To each his own."
Yes, what you describe is the way I have mine set up. The factory SG cables are plugged directly into the Tazer and the Tazer is mounted right behind the lowere dash panel. I have the Z-auto 12+8 cable plugged into the factory OBD ports and dead-headed somewhere up behind the dash. I only wanted that to make it easier to remove/reinstall the Tazer for a stealership warranty visit.

Tell you the truth, I'm going to leave my Tazer plugged in next dealership visit. My dealership of choice sells a lot of factory modded Jeeps and they have never balked at any mods I have done. I don't see whay they would balk at the Tazer.
 

AndySpill

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Yes, what you describe is the way I have mine set up. The factory SG cables are plugged directly into the Tazer and the Tazer is mounted right behind the lowere dash panel. I have the Z-auto 12+8 cable plugged into the factory OBD ports and dead-headed somewhere up behind the dash. I only wanted that to make it easier to remove/reinstall the Tazer for a stealership warranty visit.

Tell you the truth, I'm going to leave my Tazer plugged in next dealership visit. My dealership of choice sells a lot of factory modded Jeeps and they have never balked at any mods I have done. I don't see whay they would balk at the Tazer.
@LSJKU I'm not one to be pedantic for its sake alone, but to make sure that I'm on the "same page" as those I talk to.

With this said, I believe that your SGW extension cable
Jeep Wrangler JL JSCAN 1762700881896-5r

is plugged into your security gateway, circled below

Jeep Wrangler JL JSCAN 1762700932585-vy

behind the steering wheel, as its 12 and 8 pin connectors don't fit the standard 16 pin connector of an ODB 2 port found by your left knee as shown in either the above photo (not circled) or below photo:

Jeep Wrangler JL JSCAN 1762701063524-gm


I would encourage you to unmarry your Tazer, physically disconnect it, and attached the 12 and 8 pin cables that are freed from this process back into the SGW extension cord prior to a dealer visit.

There seems to be some debate as to whether unmarrying the tazer is necessary, but nobody has every found it bad to do, just maybe (maybe not) unnecessary.

Given your SGW extension cord I'd hope this not too difficult a process that might make your trip to the dealer (hopefully an infrequent one for service) produce one less headache beyond service cost.

When you get home you can reconnect and marry that Tazer again.
 
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You don't. Rather, IMHO you want it, especially in light of your expression of willingness to spend where spending is wise.

Here's the thing, were the adjustments you made with Jscan a one time thing I could see being without the extension cable. But it is entirely possible that you may need to reconfigure things using Jscan, and put them back they way the where, after, (and because of) some dealer visit where some aspect of your service erased the information you configured using Jscan prior.
We bought our JL beginning of May this year. When I take it in for the first oil change in May 26 it will have @ 4000 miles on it. In the scenario you describe, what does the extension cable do for me?
 

AndySpill

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We bought our JL beginning of May this year. When I take it in for the first oil change in May 26 it will have @ 4000 miles on it. In the scenario you describe, what does the extension cable do for me?
Hey Geo:

....absolutely nothing, nor is it harmful.

Where the SGW extension cable proves its worth if for people who have a security gateway bypass device like the ECRI, or JL Tazer, or its cheaper somewhat less feature rich sister [product, the JL Tazer Lite installed.

(I suppose those with start stop devices who disconnect them prior to dealer visits also benefit form this extension cord. I'm not sure.)

A narrative describing this may be helpful at shedding light here.

Say you've purchased a JL Tazer.

In order to install it you must removed the factory 12 pin and 8 pin cables from the security gateway. This gateway is not only in a hard place to reach behind the steering wheel but the cables sometimes only release from the gateway with some wiggling.

In to make this difficult disconnection a "one time in ownership" proposition you then plug into the gateway the SGW extension cable.

Then you plug your JL Tazer (which is a security gateway bypass device, or whatever security gateway bypass device you buy) into the freed up factory 12 pin and 8 pin cables, marry the device (if a JL Tazer) and enjoy its features.

At some point, visiting the dealer will become inevitable where disconnection of the JL Tazer is strongly advised. While I've read varying opinions on whether it is necessary to unmarry the JL Tazer first, nobody has told me this is a bad thing, so I unmarry it and then disconnect it.

Thereafter I plug the now freed up factory 12 and 8 pin cables into the SGW extension cable, which is connected to the security gateway, not the security gateway itself . This re-plugging in these cables is necessary for your entertainment system to work and for the dealer to handle h electronic programming aspects of your vehicle. It is this final step that is made infinitely easier by owning the SGW extension cable as will be rehooking up your JL Tazer after the dealer visit.

Without the extension cable I'd have to plug the 12 and 8 pin factory cables back into the hard to reach security gateway, and deal with the challenges some people face dislodging them to reinstall a security gateway bypass after the dealer visit.

Geo: an analogy. Imagine that you kitchen has one electrical outlet that is plugged into and blocked by your refrigerator.

Every so often you need access to this outlet to run the vacuum. So you pull the refrigerator out once, install an extension cord into which the refrigerator plugs into. When you need to vacuum , access to this outlet to disconnect the fridge and run the vacuum, and then plugging the fridge back in becomes much easier because of the extension cord you previously implemented.

I hope this helps.
 

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LAM

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We bought our JL beginning of May this year. When I take it in for the first oil change in May 26 it will have @ 4000 miles on it. In the scenario you describe, what does the extension cable do for me?
The whole point is that the security bypass cables without the extension need to plug into the connectors in the circled picture above. These are hard to access; you need to pull off the dashboard panel pretty much and even then you need dexterity to disconnect the cable.

I’ve found all of the wiring connectors in my Jeep are hard to disconnect and always worry about pulling a wire out or breaking the connector.
 

AndySpill

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The whole point is that the security bypass cables without the extension need to plug into the connectors in the circled picture above.
Better stated, the security bypass cables: those 2 cables, one with 12 pins and one with 8, that come from the factory, need to be plugged into the connectors in my circled picture (i.e. the security gateway) for dealer visits, or to make the entertainment system function if those cables are not plugged into an aftermarket security gateway bypass like an ECRI or JL Tazer.

And when those cables are plugged into the factory security gateway they can be plugged in directly to it, or plugged into a SGW extension cable that is at its other end is plugged into the factory security gateway. Either is perfectly fine, (I'm not sure why you feel the SGW extension cable needs to be taken out of the setup) the latter easier for the access reasons you describe in addition to the sometimes difficulty in removal reasons previously mentioned, which might still be the case even if the factory security gateway was as accessible as the volume control on the entertainment system.
 
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BMCGC

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10 years from now somebody is going to get on here and claim they bought a 2025 JL from a 70 year old lady. 40,000 miles, all maintenance records, no mods, never been offroad. SCORE!!! The rest of you are going to say how envious you are.

You can all thank my wife now.
 
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I ordered the MC+, 12+8 and SGW for right at $80 today.
 

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Hello everyone
My first post here. Just picked up the Jeep Rubicon JL 2022 used here in India. the first thing i want to do is add driver side passive entry. Read up a lot here and just to be sure this is what I will need:
1) Mopar Passive Entry Kit For Front Driver Side Door
2) Vgate vLinker MC+ Bluetooth OBD2 Car Diagnostic Scan Tool for iOS, Android, Windows
3) 12+8 Pin Connector to OBD2 Adapter, Secutiry Gateway Bypass Cable, 12+8 Cable for Chrysler SGW Equipped FCA Vehicles
An iphone and Jscan License and software.

In India we have a RHD but I am presuming the door handle is same both sides?
I want to be sure because sourcing parts here takes ages.

My jeep does have remote start built in already and the 8.4 inch screen.
I am loving the Jeep
 

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virkdoc

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I ordered the MC+, 12+8 and SGW for right at $80 today.
Please let us know how it worked for you and what sequence or steps you used for programming it in
 

Dyolfknip74

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Hello everyone
My first post here. Just picked up the Jeep Rubicon JL 2022 used here in India. the first thing i want to do is add driver side passive entry. Read up a lot here and just to be sure this is what I will need:
1) Mopar Passive Entry Kit For Front Driver Side Door
2) Vgate vLinker MC+ Bluetooth OBD2 Car Diagnostic Scan Tool for iOS, Android, Windows
3) 12+8 Pin Connector to OBD2 Adapter, Secutiry Gateway Bypass Cable, 12+8 Cable for Chrysler SGW Equipped FCA Vehicles
An iphone and Jscan License and software.

In India we have a RHD but I am presuming the door handle is same both sides?
I want to be sure because sourcing parts here takes ages.


My jeep does have remote start built in already and the 8.4 inch screen.
I am loving the Jeep
There is a group on Facebook called JScan Lovers and one called JScan. Both have the creator of JScan in there answering.
 

virkdoc

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Hi Can anyone chime in which is the best website to order the "Mopar Passive Entry Kit For Front Driver Side Door"
I am seeing 2 websites allmoparparts.com and moparonlineparts.com
Are they legit?
 

The_Murse

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Could someone please be kind enough to post exactly what needs to be done in JSCAN to activate the passive entry proximity feature once the hardware is installed? Which adaptation im looking for? Thanks so much

Also. I currently have the stopstarteliminator installed. If i unmarry that and plug in the JSCAN, make the necessary changes, then unplug everything and reconnect the eliminator do you think it should return to work normally? Thanks so much for the insight.
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