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Installing Factory Alpine Sub in a Base Model

akm313

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Has anyone taken a factory Alpine subwoofer and successfully installed it in a base model? Not the PSS-23WRA

I originally got the 7” basic sound system (no subwoofer at all) then recently upgraded the radio to the 8.4” Uconnect and it sounds so much better already. I wanted to kick it up a notch so I found the whole Alpine factory rear panel subwoofer at a local junk yard and looking to install it. I read through multiple threads and can’t find anyone who did it. Can someone guide me? I’m still new to these forums
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Gaust

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You’d have to use an aftermarket LOC or dsp and an amplifier to hook the subwoofer up to. From what I understand there’s no subwoofer output or amplifier, from the factory radio, unless you have the Alpine system installed.
 
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akm313

akm313

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You’d have to use an aftermarket LOC or dsp and an amplifier to hook the subwoofer up to. From what I understand there’s no subwoofer output or amplifier, from the factory radio, unless you have the Alpine system installed.
I think I’m just gonna take it to a professional to install. I don’t know anything about audio systems.
 

ModMike

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That is correct. Doing an upgrade on sons 3 month old Willys and you need an LOC and amp to make that work.
 
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akm313

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That is correct. Doing an upgrade on sons 3 month old Willys and you need an LOC and amp to make that work.
Do you know how big of an amp the factory subwoofer can handle?
 

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Do you know how big of an amp the factory subwoofer can handle?
The factory amp is 46W per channel with 4 separate voice coils so a 4 channel amp that makes 50W per channel into 2Ohms should be enough. I wouldn't put much more than that through it.
 
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akm313

akm313

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The factory amp is 46W per channel with 4 separate voice coils so a 4 channel amp that makes 50W per channel into 2Ohms should be enough. I wouldn't put much more than that through it.
Nice thanks for that info. That helps a lot! Do you by chance know how many watts are going to the subwoofer or how many watts the subwoofer can handle? Also is the subwoofer single or dual coil?
 

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The stock sub is a quad voice coil. With the current stock Alpine set up it’s getting slightly less then 200 watts rms. Not sure what the peak ratings are. I have taken mine apart and the quality is not bad but you certainly can do better aftermarket without breaking the bank while still using the enclosure.
 
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akm313

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The stock sub is a quad voice coil. With the current stock Alpine set up it’s getting slightly less then 200 watts rms. Not sure what the peak ratings are. I have taken mine apart and the quality is not bad but you certainly can do better aftermarket without breaking the bank while still using the enclosure.
Perfect thanks for the info! This helps a lot!
 
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akm313

akm313

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The factory amp is 46W per channel with 4 separate voice coils so a 4 channel amp that makes 50W per channel into 2Ohms should be enough. I wouldn't put much more than that through it.
So does that mean each speaker and each tweeter can handle 50 watts each? If im asking a stupid question I apologize. I know absolutely nothing about sound systems
 

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So does that mean each speaker and each tweeter can handle 50 watts each? If im asking a stupid question I apologize. I know absolutely nothing about sound systems
The factory premium audio amp is claimed to produce 46W per channel so technically they should be able to handle it. I haven't tested the output of the amp so don't know how accurate the claim is. The speakers in the premium system are also 2Ohm rather than 4Ohm that most aftermarket speakers are. It means that if you replace the factory speakers and retain the amp you will have less power driving them or if you replace the factory amp but retain the speakers you need to make sure that the amp is capable of driving a 2Ohm load.
 

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The factory premium audio amp is claimed to produce 46W per channel so technically they should be able to handle it. I haven't tested the output of the amp so don't know how accurate the claim is. The speakers in the premium system are also 2Ohm rather than 4Ohm that most aftermarket speakers are. It means that if you replace the factory speakers and retain the amp you will have less power driving them or if you replace the factory amp but retain the speakers you need to make sure that the amp is capable of driving a 2Ohm load.
He does not have the factory amp.

OP, get an LC2I Pro and an amp. And grab an aftermarket sub. See if the guys installing your new sub can seal that sub box up for you. IF you want to spend a little bit of money, the JL 10tw3 is a great sub that they could make fit in that hole. If you go that route, grab a kicker CXA800.1 amp. Get the sub in dual 4 ohm, wire to 2 ohm. That'll be 600 watts rms off the amp, which is plenty of overhead and will allow gains to be kept low. This setup would sound amazing if installs done right, and parts price for everything will be ~$700. It can be done cheaper if you wish to give up bass and sound quality. That factory sub is junk honestly. Grab your signal from the sound bar wiring and run it into the lci2 for processing.
 

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Silly question, but maybe not. I am looking to beef up the inside of my stock Aline sub's plastic surround with resin and overlay that with a "dynamat" material. I will be upgrading the sub and adding an amp and 2-channel LOC. Can I grab the signal from the original sub harness, or is the soundbar still the preferred source to take the signal from.

Thanks!

-Jeff
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