eTorque ESS is always "not ready"?

[4a4c55]

Are you proficient with a voltmeter?

Yes.

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[mwilk012]

Yes.

Note: you can’t sue me if you shock yourself.

Check the motor generator voltage output directly at the MGU

 

[laroo]

Where do you buy automotive batteries that accepts used returns?

Walmart, all day every day. It's worth a try.

 

[4a4c55]

Note: you can’t sue me if you shock yourself.

It's unlikely. I know my way around the electronicals, and unless I fancy a spark-plug lolipop, the voltages under the hood aren't enough to cause a shock.

Check the motor generator voltage output directly at the MGU

Is this the MGU output? Is it accessible?

 

[mwilk012]

It's unlikely. I know my way around the electronicals, and unless I fancy a spark-plug lolipop, the voltages under the hood aren't enough to cause a shock.

Is this the MGU output? Is it accessible?

By all standards, 48VDC is more than enough to wreck your day.

Yes that’s the output.

Accesssible? I’m not sure. Never worked on an Etorque JL.

 

[4a4c55]

By all standards, 48VDC is more than enough to wreck your day.

Oh, brother.

 

[mwilk012]

Oh, brother.

.1 amps is fatal

 

[Jebiruph]

I'd happily replace it if I knew it was the cause of the issue, but a new battery is $300 and it since it tests good. (See above.) Even knowing that, do you still recommend replacement? Why?

I thought maybe someone in the forum would know how to diagnose the issue. Maybe it's just possible without a factory scan tool. There are no codes, nothing in the display, no other symptoms of a bad (or even weak) battery. The opacity of the eTorque system is quite troubling.

The reported 12v battery status is based on the analysis of the battery sensor. If you doubt the reported status, reset (by unplugging the 2 wire connector) the battery sensor so it will recalibrate it's battery analysis.

 

[4a4c55]

.1 amps is fatal

48 volts is not likely to cause 100 milliamps of current across skin. The resistance of human tissue is far higher than you're assuming. Maybe, after a shower and a sauna, someone might coat themselves in baby oil and then have a problem, but that's not what most people do before working on a vehicle. "By all standards" (IEC, BS, UL, ...) this voltage is "low" or "extremely low". Some of the safety standards (NFPA) allow work on energized systems.

The reported 12v battery status is based on the analysis of the battery sensor. If you doubt the reported status, reset (by unplugging the 2 wire connector) the battery sensor so it will recalibrate it's battery analysis.

Indeed, the battery sensor is the problem. Someone was here before and the data connector on the IBS has been damaged. With a temporary fix in place, the ESS system now shows "ready". My fix isn't so durable, so I'll probably replace the sensor and get a new connector for free.

 

[Murphydog]

Glad you ran it down. I do wonder why it was messed with in the first place

 

[mwilk012]

Is the battery sensor any different from the non Etorque version? It’s a pretty simple little device.

Also, 30V is the cutoff point for government work on energized systems without absurd special precautions.

 

[4a4c55]

Also, 30V is the cutoff point for government work on energized systems without absurd special precautions.

If you're not comfortable working on very-low voltage systems without absurd special precautions, that's fine by me. I've got no problem with it ... and it's quite far afield of my question here.

Glad you ran it down. I do wonder why it was messed with in the first place

Thanks, me too! Sheesh.

It looks like it might've been smashed because the outside holding clip is cracked, and the internal pin retainer is also cracked. It's a very small problem -- the crack in the retainer prevents the tiny tab on the pin from holding the pin in the connector. When mating the connector, it slides out. For now, I've shoved a toothpick into it. Fortunately, it's the sensor side and not the wiring harness side.

Maybe someone replaced the battery and smashed it. (But the date on the battery matches the production date ... ) Maybe heat, maybe a manufacturing defect. Who knows?

It's also hard to understand the failure mode. Since I was connecting my battery tester tool to the posts, the IBS isn't involved. But the dashboard read battery voltages just fine, and there was no other symptom besides "not ready".

 

[mwilk012]

The IBS isn’t a voltage sensor, the PCM detects voltage directly. The IBS is a temperature sensor.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

ESS doesn't save you any money. I don't know why people care about it. I disabled mine on day two of ownership. According to my Wrangler, my hood has been open for a year and a half.

 

[mwilk012]

ESS doesn't save you any money. I don't know why people care about it. I disabled mine on day two of ownership. According to my Wrangler, my hood has been open for a year and a half.

This isn’t adding any value to this conversation. Etorque is more than a start/stop system.

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