No. An engine fault will set the ESS warning light as well.ESS light.
Its not about agreeing, it’s about being accurate.Well I'm not going to get into a pissing match with you. I don't disagree with checking codes, but as I said, if I can do some basic checks that don't require a dealer visit, that is generally going to be my suggestion. You don't have to agree. That's cool. That's what I would do though.
The average person has no business messing with the Aux battery, if they even have one.Again, I'm not saying "It's this" or "it's that", I'm saying there are some basic things you can check. You're obviously very defensive about this. I'm sorry I upset you. By all means, take it to a stealership, they're always the right solution.
Low voltage will cause not only an engine to run rough, trigger the check engine light but it will also disable ESS. It can also be checked in the EVIC or with a multimeter without a code reader or a trip to the dealer.Its not about agreeing, it’s about being accurate.
And somehow did not set any low voltage codes in any other module besides the pcm, that’s what you are saying. The first response to the thread was to pull the codes. You went off on a hunt for aux battery failure based on nothing.Low voltage will cause not only an engine to run rough, trigger the check engine light but it will also disable ESS. It can also be checked in the EVIC or with a multimeter without a code reader or a trip to the dealer.
There ya go sunshine, there’s your “accurate“.
Go to the start of the thread and read.….And somehow did not set any low voltage codes in any other module besides the pcm, that’s what you are saying. The first response to the thread was to pull the codes. You went off on a hunt for aux battery failure based on nothing.
You can post more paragraphs all you like, it won’t make you correct. And now, the ridiculousness of this thread will likely keep the OP from ever returning.Go to the start of the thread and read.….
The first reply was “There’s something wrong with your engine, check codes”.
The next reply was mine so let’s break it down:
First sentence - ”Rough running with ESS disabled sounds like your alternator is not keeping up”. Looking at the voltage is easier to check than connecting a code reader and can be done in the EVIC by the average person (for free) sitting in their driveway.
Since you eliminated weak voltage as a decent guess, it shows you don’t know low voltage can and will cause rough running, illumination of the CEL and prevent ESS operation.
Second sentence - “If you want to do a quick part toss on the most plausible suspect, replace the IBS sensor”
One of the most common contributors to insufficient charge for vehicles built in the last 10+ years is a thing that contains a thermistor connected to the negative post of the battery. Jeep calls it IBS, Ram calls it BTS, Bosch calls it EBS, VW calls it BCS and guess what? It typically costs less than the average dealer hook-up to read codes.
Your reply, “whatever you do, don’t do this”.
Now that I’ve spent the time to walk through the two “based on nothing” sentences that triggered your replies, I look forward to your next “accurate” rebuttal.
Remember, don’t go cheap on the “VK Shrine” if OP comes back and says I nailed it.
We may have different definitions of “Mickey Mouse”.I don't have to wait for the OP to confirm what the problem is, I'm all in for the Disney "VK Shrine", his explanations are the most Mickey Mouse I've seen yet. Is this going to be a Go Fund Me or what?
Of all the possibilities, I’d bet on the oil leak from valve cover onto oxygen sensor, or failed head gasket. I’d allow for failed lifter/rocker arm but OP didn’t mention a noise.When all else fails, turn to prayer. Pray that your mechanic can find an easy, cheap solution.