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Dynatrac Ball Joints

BadA$$Rubi

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Not sure brother……it might be the retailer’s code, it seems to be different depending on who you get it from….. here’s my source…….Poly Performance

9E3074A9-ED20-439E-99FD-0931BC99993E.png
Maybe that is a vendor addendum? I purchased directly from Reid. For my case with no flip, they spec #JL001-R/L.
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BDinTX

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@Roky when you were adjusting the EC for center, how big a turn were you making? 1/4 turn, full turn, etc
 

Roky

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@Roky when you were adjusting the EC for center, how big a turn were you making? 1/4 turn, full turn, etc
The first time I was making to big of adjustments. I just put it on out of the box and it took awhile to get it right.

Then when I switched to the 75 I tightened both cylinders tight to the eyelets, then backed both sides off evenly until I had a 1/4” of thread showing. Then if you’re using the tie rod mount, put it on the track bar bolt first then tighten the clamp but don’t install it under pressure, (not likely it’s pretty stout) but you want it to bolt on at rest.

This time I broke the adjustment into 12 points. I lined up the flat of the jamb nut up with the flat on the eyelet. Then when you turn the cylinder you go half of a flat or a whole flat. If it’s pulling right then you tighten the cylinder towards the eyelet, if it’s pulling left then loosen cylinder away from eyelet.

I’m not sure if this is the right way to do it, but it works for me……
 

BDinTX

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awesome thank you sir!
 

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Agree with word302, I’d recommend doing knuckles. There’s been a couple documented cases on here of the oem aluminum knuckles wallowing out. At the very least inspect the knuckles when you change ball joints. Mine have been in for a year now and they’re rock solid. There’s a little rust on the stud, not a concern for me. I keep up with it.
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Roky, I just got around to doing my knuckles and ball joints. What a pain in the ass, the stock ball joints are toast at 6k miles on 37’s. It was a mother to get them out of the stock axle. Got her back together with the new RCV axles and Reed Knuckles but I am not laid up with massive back pain. I will post pics later.
 

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Roky

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Roky, I just got around to doing my knuckles and ball joints. What a pain in the ass, the stock ball joints are toast at 6k miles on 37’s. It was a mother to get them out of the stock axle. Got her back together with the new RCV axles and Reed Knuckles but I am not laid up with massive back pain. I will post pics later.
Awesome man…… when you drive it and feel how nice and tight it feels, and being able to turn a little easier on the trail, the back aches and pains will be worth it….. yeah, I’ve seen the oem ball joints toast at 7k, and I’ve seen them last 60k, they really are a crap shoot….
 

lashlee

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I put a set of the American Iron ball joint deletes on my wifes JLUR, at 71k. Honestly the OEM ball joints still felt tight, and no deathwobble with the way it was, but we were about to head to Moab and 4k miles in 9 days so I was trying to remove a known failure point. The ball joint deletes are tight at first (like you have to really want to move the knuckle when you're reassembling them!!) and my wife still complains about how it steers differently but they've already started to loosen up.
 

ModMike

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I put a set of the American Iron ball joint deletes on my wifes JLUR, at 71k. Honestly the OEM ball joints still felt tight, and no deathwobble with the way it was, but we were about to head to Moab and 4k miles in 9 days so I was trying to remove a known failure point. The ball joint deletes are tight at first (like you have to really want to move the knuckle when you're reassembling them!!) and my wife still complains about how it steers differently but they've already started to loosen up.
I'm considering American Irons but one person returned them because the Heim joints squeak. How are yours?
 

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Well, took the jeep for about a 50 mile ride over last weekend. All I can say is wow, everything is tight with those dynatrac ball joints. The old factory joints where just sloppy did not take much with your hand to flop it around. The drive down the freeway was great, felt like a new jeep on stock tires.

Jeep Wrangler JL Dynatrac Ball Joints AE21402F-DEFA-4B34-8957-0911FA099C9D
Jeep Wrangler JL Dynatrac Ball Joints 067EE676-2A18-497D-9B58-4F7B90C40566
 

JT1

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Well, took the jeep for about a 50 mile ride over last weekend. All I can say is wow, everything is tight with those dynatrac ball joints. The old factory joints where just sloppy did not take much with your hand to flop it around. The drive down the freeway was great, felt like a new jeep on stock tires.

Jeep Wrangler JL Dynatrac Ball Joints 067EE676-2A18-497D-9B58-4F7B90C40566
Jeep Wrangler JL Dynatrac Ball Joints 067EE676-2A18-497D-9B58-4F7B90C40566
Did you always plan to use the dynatracs or did you look at the new metalcloaks or the teraflex ones also?
 

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Rangemaster

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Did you always plan to use the dynatracs or did you look at the new metalcloaks or the teraflex ones also?
Always Dynatrac, took a year to get the RCV axles, reed knuckles, RPM steering kit, Ball Joints, Fender chop kit, bump stops Etc. Was just waiting for warmer weather to dive into all that work.
 
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wibornz

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Tip for the day doing
ball joints. If you are having a hard time getting the knuckle to release from the ball joint stud, use a sawzaw with a carbide blade and cut the ball joint stud off. The you can easily pound them out with a hammer on the bench.

It will take about 5 minutes per side with a decent sawzaw to cut through the harden stud.
 

lashlee

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I'm considering American Irons but one person returned them because the Heim joints squeak. How are yours?
With almost 5000 miles on the Jeep since I did the swap (4000 in one trip from Tennessee to Moab) I've yet to hear any noise. I can see how they could make noise due to the exposed nature of the joint, but as of yet no noise. We did 7 mile rim in the rain, Top of the world, Hells, Fins, and Porcupine in the dry plus the drive back through Colorado where the temps got down to 1 degree. I guess time will tell.
 
 



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