Dynatrac Ball Joints

[JeepVT]

It’s possible my ball joints are not great given the wobbly steearring and full on death wobble I have experienced over The past 13k miles.

my plan is to have suspension and steering (full metalcloak) overhauled, tires balanced and alignment done (for the 3rd time). I already have a fox ATS stabilizer.

I’m thinking about dynatrac ball joints to complete the removal of anything stock that might be causing this issue.

what will dynatrac ball joints get me beside longevity and easy overhaul instead of replacement? Will they be stiffer and prevent wobble better over stock?

I run 3.5” lift and 37” km3. Steel front and winch.
thanks!

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[TeraFlex]

There is a lot of room for improvement over the factory ball joints that Jeep puts in the JL/JT platforms since the factory joints have plastic ball wear sockets, no grease zerks, etc.

If you're looking to upgrade your ball joints to a better, more durable, longer lasting ball joint, we just released our JL/JT version of our ball joints. They have 4140 hardened steel ball studs and sockets, both with manganese phosphate coatings and grease channels. They're greaseable, adjustable for joint pre load, and they have a lifetime warranty. A full pair of 4 comes in at $299.

https://teraflex.com/jl-jt-dana-30-44-hd-ball-joint-kit-w-out-knurl-2-upper-2-lower.html

 

[Jhawth]

I'm thinking about swapping out oem to the dynatrac as well, probably sooner than later. Interested to see the responses you get.

 

[Spank]

I installed them last year and they do their job. I didn't have death wobble, but it did tighten things up a bit as my OEM lowers were completely toast. Installation was relatively easy given the BS you have to go through to swap them out. I'm running 37" KM3s, so replacing the stock ones were a given.

I need to take some recent pictures, but I do not live in a wet climate and yet they've got massive surface rust. I don't think they've been compromised, but they look like shit among all my other aftermarket suspension and axle components that soak up just as much road debris and other elements and have no rust at all.

 

[JeepVT]

I need to take some recent pictures, but I do not live in a wet climate and yet they've got massive surface rust. I don't think they've been compromised, but they look like shit among all my other aftermarket suspension and axle components that soak up just as much road debris and other elements and have no rust at all.

hmmmm. I live in a wet climate. I wonder is the body rusting or the joint that attaches to the knuckles?

There is a lot of room for improvement over the factory ball joints that Jeep puts in the JL/JT platforms since the factory joints have plastic ball wear sockets, no grease zerks, etc.

If you're looking to upgrade your ball joints to a better, more durable, longer lasting ball joint, we just released our JL/JT version of our ball joints. They have 4140 hardened steel ball studs and sockets, both with manganese phosphate coatings and grease channels. They're greaseable, adjustable for joint pre load, and they have a lifetime warranty. A full pair of 4 comes in at $299.

https://teraflex.com/jl-jt-dana-30-44-hd-ball-joint-kit-w-out-knurl-2-upper-2-lower.html

thanks!

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

There is a lot of room for improvement over the factory ball joints that Jeep puts in the JL/JT platforms since the factory joints have plastic ball wear sockets, no grease zerks, etc.

If you're looking to upgrade your ball joints to a better, more durable, longer lasting ball joint, we just released our JL/JT version of our ball joints. They have 4140 hardened steel ball studs and sockets, both with manganese phosphate coatings and grease channels. They're greaseable, adjustable for joint pre load, and they have a lifetime warranty. A full pair of 4 comes in at $299.

https://teraflex.com/jl-jt-dana-30-44-hd-ball-joint-kit-w-out-knurl-2-upper-2-lower.html

Forum discount??????

 

[Spank]

hmmmm. I live in a wet climate. I wonder is the body rusting or the joint that attaches to the knuckles?

I'll snap some photos soon and show you. The bottom of the knuckles are caked with rust, but so are the tops of the caps.

 

[word302]

I wouldn’t use anything other than Dynatrac because you can rebuild them in place. I’d replace the knuckles at the same time.

 

[TeraFlex]

Forum discount??????

Unfortunately we don't have a direct discount for forum members. We do have a 10% military discount however.

 

[Roky]

Agree with word302, I’d recommend doing knuckles. There’s been a couple documented cases on here of the oem aluminum knuckles wallowing out. At the very least inspect the knuckles when you change ball joints. Mine have been in for a year now and they’re rock solid. There’s a little rust on the stud, not a concern for me. I keep up with it.

 

[Headbarcode]

In the very least, it would be wise to replace the hub and bearing assemblies along with the ball joints.

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

Dynatrac Ball Joints Part # JP44-2X3050-E and Reid Racing knuckles JL001R & JL001L?

Also @Roky, which PSI Exact Steer did you prefer ? The 75 or 100?

You guys are draining my savings account! LOL

 

[Roky]

Dynatrac Ball Joints Part # JP44-2X3050-E and Reid Racing knuckles JL001R & JL001L?

Also @Roky, which PSI Exact Steer did you prefer ? The 75 or 100?

You guys are draining my savings account! LOL

The Reid knuckles you want are DPB-JL001. The L and R at the end of the model # indicates you’re ordering one or the other left or right side only.

I couldn’t tell any difference in the 75 and the 100 that I have, so John is gonna send out a new 100, 125, and a 150 as soon as he’s done testing on his rig. He feels the 100 that I have is from old stock prototypes, and the 75 is a more recent model.

This bodes well for this unit IMO, as it’s at least 3 years old, and still working as good as it does.

The 75 I’m running now is working great. It is definitely handling my bead locks & 37s really well.

 

[BadA$$Rubi]

The Reid knuckles you want are DPB-JL001. The L and R at the end of the model # indicates you’re ordering one or the other left or right side only.

I couldn’t tell any difference in the 75 and the 100 that I have, so John is gonna send out a new 100, 125, and a 150 as soon as he’s done testing on his rig. He feels the 100 that I have is from old stock prototypes, and the 75 is a more recent model.

This bodes well for this unit IMO, as it’s at least 3 years old, and still working as good as it does.

The 75 I’m running now is working great. It is definitely handling my bead locks & 37s really well.

What does the “DPB” stand for… vehicle specific?

 

[Roky]

What does the “DPB” stand for… vehicle specific?

Not sure brother……it might be the retailer’s code, it seems to be different depending on who you get it from….. here’s my source…….Poly Performance

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