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Do you use the angled one for upper and lowers?

Does anyone have a recommendation for a ball joint press kit that comes with the correct cup? Do we need the angled one that Dynatrac sells?

Thanks Matson, you guys are awesome.

@Metalcloak we know the dynatrac balljoint rebuild kit is about $150, I don't see a kit or a price for the baller joint rebuilds on your site. Any idea what they are going to cost and what is in the kit?

more money for other stuff you're going to want. $200 buys you a fair amount of recovery gear if you plan on getting it dirty.

I hear ya. But if you have a specific budget and you can't get a rubi for it, but you can get 85-90% of the capability at a price you can live with, the willys is an option. I won't buy a sport because of the M186 and the 3.45s, but the willys is a viable option, and is only a few hundred...

It's an app you put on your phone and buy a license for $20. You will need a cable (I would buy the extension too) and an OBD2 reader. The JSCAN thread explains it pretty well. You can also change your tire pressure low alarm from 29 to anything lower if you find you like 31/32 cold pressure...

Or use JSCAN and save a couple hundred bucks. If you are only messing with tire size, it's the easy button. No marry/un-marry door open and close and wait cycles.

Agreed. With a tazer you can disable the reconnect speed thing, but still. And evidently the willys now comes with Falken M/Ts instead of KO2s. Add a winch and you are still cheaper than a rubi. It definitely has its place in the lineup.

The e-disco in the Rubi is a pain in the rear. Driving from obstacle to obstacle it re-engages all the time. If you are going to toss an anti-rock on there anyway, the Willys is 90% there. 24 Willys has the same rear axle and front axle as a 23 Rubi. Add a front locker for $1500 and you have...

Is the M/T an option like it is on the gladiator? The only ones I have seen have had KO2s on them

They are essentially the same... same axle ratio, same tires, no limited slip. The less agressive 2.72 transfercase of the willys is probably an advantage in the sand for higher wheelspeed.

The 24 Willys have a rear locker and come with KO2s..

Yeah, makes perfect sense for Jeep to have 2 different axles (reg and floater) M210/M220 with 4.10s and 2 (reg and floater) with 4.56s. on a build sheet, the full floater is called out for the Rubicon, and isn't called out for the 35" Willys. So I'd say you are right.

I think all Rubis and XRs (including the Willys) will have the floater. Looking at the way they did it, not sure there is much advantage other than the higher rated capacity.

Could be bent at the FAD, could be a bent inner C. Run it and don't stress. Put a FAD skid on there to reinforce that area if so inclined.

I would run it and not think twice. If the bend gets worse, front axles are a dime a dozen. Swap one in..

It really is a great option now if you don't want all the standard equipment the Rubicon comes with. Or you hate red stitching...

With an automatic, the 2.72 vs 4:1 ratio isn't that big of a deal.. On a manual, it's a little more important. 4.10s vs 3.45s makes it much more user friendly once you put a tire on there..

Same wide M210/220 as rubicon.. scroll down to page 6 or so and see the wide 210/wide 220 https://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=1C4PJXDN2RW113744