Daily Driver Mods?

TPadden

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I don't care if it's a sports car, heavy duty truck, or Jeep... this amount of flex between the steering box & frame is not acceptable for any vehicle.
Jeep is the only vehicle I've ever owned that's structure seems to be so commonly highly modified right off the show room floor. Just because mine rides to my expectations I understand and sympathize with those owners whose vehicles don't.





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NickL

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What modifications would you all recommend to increase the functionality of the JL as a daily? I was thinking of throwing on the synergy sector shaft brace for some road stability, anything else to recommend?
ive added quite a few mods but none to the suspension and running gear. Put on a Bestop Sunrider in place of freedom panels. Love it! So much more fun. Trade off is more wind noise but not terrible. Splash guards help keep it clean. Fender strap sand, pebbles and debris on JLs. YouTubenfix with thing rubber tubing from Amazon works well. Easy to do. Hot here in West Palm Beach, so ventshades overnwindiws allow heat to dissipate and keeps Jeep cool. Medical Trauma Kit, Fire Extinguisher and Emergency Flashlight attached to roll bar is a plus. Jeep people are the kind that stop and help others, so good to have.
 

Spearmin

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LED headlight upgrade is a must if you didn't go for the factory option.
 

ObiMatt87

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What modifications would you all recommend to increase the functionality of the JL as a daily? I was thinking of throwing on the synergy sector shaft brace for some road stability, anything else to recommend?
For my Mojito! JLU Sahara hardtop I purchased and installed Hothead Headliners with their Sound Assassin strips after looking at a bunch of options and reading/viewing a ton of reviews. Personally, I find it to have been a purchase well worth it, and, despite the higher cost than some competitors, the quality and support more than make up the difference. For me, on roads around San Antonio, noise in the cabin dropped 8-10db. I anticipate it'll help dramatically in the heat as well, which is why most people get headliners, but even in the heat last year without them I found my Jeep cooled down quickly. It'll do it even quicker now with a little help from the headliners. Lastly, they definitely finish out the look of the cabin and are of high-quality. Totally a personal preference, but it made a world of difference for me.
 

roaniecowpony

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Today, I started installing my sound proofing. I started with the passenger front door. I removed the decorative interior panel. Then there's a plastic panel that holds the window motor and regulator and door latch/lock system. I removed the window completely and stripped the door down to access the interior of the door freely. Lots of parts, but nothing too serious. There's a sequence to removing the window that you have to do, but it's all very straight forward.

I put Kilmat 80 on the door skin and used Kilmat 50 on the metal that is on the interior side of the vehicle, placing the sound proofing on the interior of the door. I got the door reassembled, except for the interior trim panel, which I left off so I can add a sound absorbing foam to its enclosed side. While I was in there, I ran a bead of silicone between the door beam and the skin. I used a silicone that specifically allows a lot of movement.
P_20200422_130045.jpg
P_20200422_173723.jpg
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Just closing the door or tapping the exterior skin has a much more solid sound. Once I get the driver door completed I'll make another meter test to compare to baseline. My intent is to do all the doors this way, then the tub and something for the roof.
 
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viper88

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Today, I started installing my sound proofing. I started with the passenger front door. I removed the decorative interior panel. Then there's a plastic panel that holds the window motor and regulator and door latch/lock system. I removed the window completely and stripped the door down to access the interior of the door freely. Lots of parts, but nothing too serious. There's a sequece to removing the window that you have to do, but it's all very straight forward.

I put Kilmat 80 on the door skin and used Kilmat 50 on the metal that is on the interior side of the vehicle, placing the sound proofing on the interior of the door. I got the door reassembled, except for the interior trim panel, which I left off so I can add a sound absorbing foam to its enclosed side. While I was in there, I ran a bead of silicone between the door beam and the skin. I used a silicone that specifically allows a lot of movement.
P_20200422_130045.jpg
P_20200422_173723.jpg
P_20200422_173730.jpg
P_20200422_173740.jpg


Just closing the door or tapping the exterior skin has a much more solid sound. Once I get the driver door completed I'll make another meter test to compare to baseline. My intent is to do all the doors this way, then the tub and something for the roof.
Did you notice the sound deadening pad glued to the inside of the door skin? Any pictures of that by any chance?
 

roaniecowpony

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Did you notice the sound deadening pad glued to the inside of the door skin? Any pictures of that by any chance?
Look at the very first picture. The area above the door beam is covered in a hard pad about 3/16" thick. It covers most of the area above the beam. I was actually surprised it was so large. It's one reason why our JLs are so much quieter than the JK. At first, I wasn't sure I was going to cover it with additional material. So, I started covering the area below the beam. The more I thought about it, I just went ahead and covered over it. Glad I did. That material is hard and it now has a definite change in the frequency when you tap the center of this area compared to the door not yet covered.
 

viper88

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Look at the very first picture. The area above the door beam is covered in a hard pad about 3/16" thick. It covers most of the area above the beam. I was actually surprised it was so large. It's one reason why our JLs are so much quieter than the JK. At first, I wasn't sure I was going to cover it with additional material. So, I started covering the area below the beam. The more I thought about it, I just went ahead and covered over it. Glad I did. That material is hard and it now has a definite change in the frequency when you tap the center of this area compared to the door not yet covered.
I was not sure what I was looking at in the first pic initially. Is that pad glued directly to the inside of the door skin? It's a lot larger then what I was expecting. I wonder if there s another pad behind the one that shows in your first pic? I was told the pad was about 14" x 10". The insulating pad is supposedly the reason for the door waves or warps. It shrinks or expands/contracts differently then the aluminum skin when they bake the paint. That's what I was told by someone.

I do notice my JLR is quieter then my old JK. It seems like it is a lot quieter. Lot less wind and road noise. My JLR is the 2.0 and I have the 8.4" Infotainment and Automatic Noise Control. I assumed it was the ANC that was making my JLR cabin quieter. Looks like it's a combination of things.

There's not a lot of information out about the ANC. I wonder what frequencies or noise it really cancels out?

Looking forward to your final test with the sound meter.
 

roaniecowpony

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I was not sure what I was looking at in the first pic initially. Is that pad glued directly to the inside of the door skin? It's a lot larger then what I was expecting. I wonder if there s another pad behind the one that shows in your first pic? I was told the pad was about 14" x 10". The insulating pad is supposedly the reason for the door waves or warps. It shrinks or expands/contracts differently then the aluminum skin when they bake the paint. That's what I was told by someone.

I do notice my JLR is quieter then my old JK. It seems like it is a lot quieter. Lot less wind and road noise. My JLR is the 2.0 and I have the 8.4" Infotainment and Automatic Noise Control. I assumed it was the ANC that was making my JLR cabin quieter. Looks like it's a combination of things.

There's not a lot of information out about the ANC. I wonder what frequencies or noise it really cancels out?

Looking forward to your final test with the sound meter.
Nick,
Agree, it's a combination of things making our JLs quieter. But, when I had the carpet up to install the factory toad harness, it didn't have insulation in the floor, except the carpet.

Yeah that door insulation pad is much larger than I've seen in the doors of my GM LTZ truck. But when I had my wife driving (70mph), I ran around the door with a meter and the lower front of the doors were significantly louder than anywhere else. That makes sense, due to the tire being right there. It looks like a single layer bonded directly to the door skin.

I really looked over the door/window seals. I think they did a good job with them. There is one main seal around the entire door, then another seal around just the upper half and closer to the outside edge. They could be tighter, but I doubt we're going to see a better seal from the aftermarket. Just stuffing more seal in there may just deflect the upper window frame of the door. If you look at all the modern cars and trucks, the window frame is really deep and wide to support the seals better.

My JLUR is also equipped with the ANC. I don't know if shutting off the radio shuts it down or not. I tried it a few times and it seems noisier, but it could be just me.
 

LowBama

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I have a JLURD on order. My first mod will be sound proofing. I plan to make my own headliners using some of the DIY guides on YouTube and use Coyote Corda material. The money I save on the headliner I will put toward using LizardSkin spray sound/thermal for the tub and hard top. LizardSkin costs more but it a kids any future corrosion issues that could come up with moisture in the floorboards using mats. Plan to use Noico 80 for doors. Based on results I may add some mass loaded vinyl also.

I’m getting the Jeep as a daily driver so I think sound deadening will pay bigger dividends into alt than lefts and tires.
 

roaniecowpony

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Adam,
I was having a bit of a time deciding on the aluminum-butyl mat to use. After reading a lot, I decided on Kilmat 80 and 50. The reason was that some users noted that Noico emitted an asphalt odor when hot. Several reviews cited that Noico has asphalt modifiers. I didn't want to spend several times the price for Dynamat Extreme and found that Kilmat had gone to straight butyl.

You might also consider using some closed cell polyurethane foam mat to complement the aluminum-butyl mat in the doors. I hadn't done this yet. But before I install the door trim panel, I'll line it with 8mm Noico Red foam.
 

viper88

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Nick,
Agree, it's a combination of things making our JLs quieter. But, when I had the carpet up to install the factory toad harness, it didn't have insulation in the floor, except the carpet.

Yeah that door insulation pad is much larger than I've seen in the doors of my GM LTZ truck. But when I had my wife driving (70mph), I ran around the door with a meter and the lower front of the doors were significantly louder than anywhere else. That makes sense, due to the tire being right there. It looks like a single layer bonded directly to the door skin.

I really looked over the door/window seals. I think they did a good job with them. There is one main seal around the entire door, then another seal around just the upper half and closer to the outside edge. They could be tighter, but I doubt we're going to see a better seal from the aftermarket. Just stuffing more seal in there may just deflect the upper window frame of the door. If you look at all the modern cars and trucks, the window frame is really deep and wide to support the seals better.

My JLUR is also equipped with the ANC. I don't know if shutting off the radio shuts it down or not. I tried it a few times and it seems noisier, but it could be just me.
I wonder about the radio and ANC? I would like to know more about the ANC myself. I tried a few other Jls and felt mine was definitely quieter. It was noticeable. At first I thought I just got a good one with less noise. Then I remember mine has ANC.
 

LowBama

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Adam,
I was having a bit of a time deciding on the aluminum-butyl mat to use. After reading a lot, I decided on Kilmat 80 and 50. The reason was that some users noted that Noico emitted an asphalt odor when hot. Several reviews cited that Noico has asphalt modifiers. I didn't want to spend several times the price for Dynamat Extreme and found that Kilmat had gone to straight butyl.

You might also consider using some closed cell polyurethane foam mat to complement the aluminum-butyl mat in the doors. I hadn't done this yet. But before I install the door trim panel, I'll line it with 8mm Noico Red foam.
Your right it’s cheap and you might as well while your in there. I read a lot on Sound Deadener Showdown and watched a bunch of YouTube videos on the subject. Seams like there are some basic principles to get right but no need to spend a ton. Most of the high dolor stuff is marketing.

I will look at Killmat also. Someone posted on a thread that noico 80 and Killmat were made by the same company, Russian I think. I thought Noico had gone away from using any asphalt. If it has asphalt I want use it.

Do you have a guide you can share to properly disassemble the doors? Do you have any feed back on results?
 

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