BUILD PLAN, MAX UPTRAVEL HELP

[ASSFROW]

Your original stated goal was good road driving, no lift, increased uptravel, max 35" tires, and snow and mild off-roading capability.

The XR package comes factory with a 1.5" lift. Add a half-inch spacer and you're at 2 inches lift. Plenty of room for your 35" tires. Add the simple to install IRO hydraulic 2" bumpstops and you'll not only increase uptravel, you'll probably bottom out your shocks before you max out your bumpstop.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/hydraulic-bumpstop-install-and-impressions.166126/

I saw your write up on the bumps, I was the one that derped on the bump stop lengths. What shocks are you running?

Edit: Found your shocks.

How much more could you have gone up if the shocks didn't stop you?

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[Bdoza10]

Spends $3,500 on shocks but would rather cut up the body then spend money on a proper lift.

And in my opinion (that nobody's asking for) I think folks spend WAY more money on shocks than they should. It's a Jeep, it'll never ride like a Caddy. Yes, the ride can be improved on, but the shock costs should be in proportion to what you're spending on the rest of the suspension and Jeep mods. High-end remote reservoir shocks look out of place in a stock-ish Jeep.

Money that could be better spent elsewhere if you're on a budget.

wow that’s the worst take I’ve seen on this site. You really should take a ride in a jeep set up well. Also with the high end shocks they’re rebuildable. Tune able to whatever you may want out of your ride. The confidence that proper suspension provides is absolutely unreal. There’s also the safety aspect of being able to out maneuver most vehicles on the road.

 

[azjl#3]

I never played with more than 3 shocks but teraflex 9550 seemed best bang for buck to me.

 

[Bdoza10]

With proper planning you can get a lot more bang for your buck than some weak shocks that are gonna make your passengers car sick

 

[flick2614]

wow that’s the worst take I’ve seen on this site. You really should take a ride in a jeep set up well. Also with the high end shocks they’re rebuildable. Tune able to whatever you may want out of your ride. The confidence that proper suspension provides is absolutely unreal. There’s also the safety aspect of being able to out maneuver most vehicles on the road.

2.5 remote reservoirs on stock coils, no adjustable track bar or links is far from a proper suspension. It will never be aligned well, the shocks will be so much stiffer than the coils that they will just blow through.

 

[ArmyRN]

I saw your write up on the bumps, I was the one that derped on the bump stop lengths. What shocks are you running?

Edit: Found your shocks.

How much more could you have gone up if the shocks didn't stop you?

With one tire stuffed and hitting the fenderwell and the other tire fully dropped down... 4 inches with 35" tires. Shock doesn't make a difference for me in this situation.

Now if both tires were going up evenly it would be just over 7 inches.

But my shocks limit me to 4" up. 2" free, and then 2" with the hydraulic bumpstop.

 

[ArmyRN]

wow that’s the worst take I’ve seen on this site. You really should take a ride in a jeep set up well. Also with the high end shocks they’re rebuildable. Tune able to whatever you may want out of your ride. The confidence that proper suspension provides is absolutely unreal. There’s also the safety aspect of being able to out maneuver most vehicles on the road.

Uhmm... you totally missed the point of my post. And I don't think anyone here is trying to out maneuver anyone on the road - these Jeeps aren't roadster. But thank you for your input.

 

[ASSFROW]

2.5 remote reservoirs on stock coils, no adjustable track bar or links is far from a proper suspension. It will never be aligned well, the shocks will be so much stiffer than the coils that they will just blow through.

What are you even on about? A trackbar centers a vehicle over the axle at ride height. If you don't lift it and it's centered, an adjustable trackbar isn't needed, but they do exist and can easily be purchased. You do know that shocks can be tuned to specific springs, right? And the shocks I'm considering are DSC. Did you even see the part about replacing the springs with JKS springs if I need too, you know a company owned by Fox that valves shocks specifically for JKS springs? Will I need longer sway bar links to prevent the sway bar from flipping with an additional 2 inches of droop? If I do, easy fix(there are tons of choices).

So please tell me what "proper lift" do I need to not lift a JLU Rubicon XR? I don't need to lift it to run 35s, you know that right? Please explain why I need a lift to run 35s. Really, do it, I want to know, maybe I'll consider it, but in the mean time..............

Currently I have 3.25" of up travel. If I can get the 1.4" up up travel that the shorter shocks can provide, I'll have 4.65" of up travel and the shocks have 9.67" of travel, so that's damn near balanced travel which is optimal for stock clevite bushings as well as how I plan to use my Jeep. See that, no lift and damn near 10 inches of travel on 35s, wow. I don't want or need aftermarket control arms other than possibly front lowers if I want more caster adjustment. Again for my use stock arms are perfect. Great ride and enough misalignment for what I do and if I trash a bushing I can get stock arms for nothing or damn near it from bozos lifting their Wranglers for no good reason. People on facebook beg people to come take them. So yes, I'd rather spend $3500 on shocks than a bunch of stuff I don't need.

Now let's say someone doesn't want to spend $3500 on shocks or the money for hydraulic bumps. Once the numbers are figured out someone could spend as little as $200 for 4 JKS J Spec shocks, $400 on Bilstein 5100s, $1000 on Fox 2.0 IPFs, run stock, MetalCloak or Sumo bumps after cutting and welding the bump tubes and get similar travel gains. That would leave them with plenty of money if they wanted to do arms for more flex. Just because you don't see value in something doesn't mean it doesn't exist. This would also be useful for those people out there buying used XR spring to lift their Rubicons, but without the need to cut the bump tubes.

 

[ASSFROW]

With one tire stuffed and hitting the fenderwell and the other tire fully dropped down... 4 inches with 35" tires. Shock doesn't make a difference for me in this situation.

Now if both tires were going up evenly it would be just over 7 inches.

But my shocks limit me to 4" up. 2" free, and then 2" with the hydraulic bumpstop.

So if your shocks were an inch shorter you'd still have fender clearance with the springs and bumps out and the other side fully drooped? Your shocks should be 16.8" compressed and my goal is to run shocks that are 15.87" compressed.

 

[Bdoza10]

Uhmm... you totally missed the point of my post. And I don't think anyone here is trying to out maneuver anyone on the road - these Jeeps aren't roadster. But thank you for your input.

They can be tho. You don’t have to drive a sloppy mess. Ultra 4 cars have proven straight axles with proper suspension handle amazing.

 

[ArmyRN]

So if your shocks were an inch shorter you'd still have fender clearance with the springs and bumps out and the other side fully drooped? Your shocks should be 16.8" compressed and my goal is to run shocks that are 15.87" compressed.

The front of my Jeep uses the factory XR springs and a half-inch TF spacer. With the axle crossed (one tire stuffed, one dangling) when the up axle went up 4" the tire was rubbing the inside fenderwell. Shocks or bumpstops here made no difference. And my bumpstop fully compresses at 4", so I can go up 4".

When I put the half-inch spacer up front, the factory red XR shocks were pretty much fully extended. So I had minimal axle droop. I did some research, and figured the Fox 2.0 IFP shocks for a 2 to 3 inch lift would have enough compression, and give me more droop so if off-road, my tires should be contacting the ground at all times. And I wasn't breaking the bank buying the shocks. And I wasn't dropping the axle too much (I think the consensus is shocks should have no more than 29" extension or it can negatively damage the front driveshaft).

Like you, my Jeep (23 Willys XR 2.0T) is my daily driver with occasional off road (overlanding) and snow. I put half-inch spacers all around partly for looks, but also to put some more space in the front bumpstop. Less than $100 for all four spacers.

Mopar front LCAs. $65.00

Fox 2.0 IFP shocks for more droop and maybe improve the ride (can't really tell if it did to be truthful). $700?

IRO hydraulic bumpstops to increase bumpstop space. Don't want to be banging the bumpstops when overlanding. Not expensive - $300ish.

But I did dump some money into the axles. All this other stuff doesn't really help a lot off-road or in the snow if you don't have traction to the tires on the ground. So I put TrueTracs front and rear. This was MY priority. They're invisible on pavement, awesome in snow, and great for mild to moderate off-roading. Almost $4000.

Since I overland and pull a small teardrop trailer, I put Clayton 2.5" springs in the rear and removed the spacer. Whenever I get a winch and winch bumper up front, I'll put some Clayton 2.5" springs up front. And keep the Fox shocks.

 

[ArmyRN]

They can be tho. You don’t have to drive a sloppy mess. Ultra 4 cars have proven straight axles with proper suspension handle amazing.

I am quite familiar with straight axle vehicles and how they can handle (stock and modified). 96 Dodge 1500 4x4, 98 Jeep ZJ, 89 Range Rover Classic, 56 Willys Truck, 98 Jeep TJ, 46 Willys CJ2A, and my current 23 JLU Willys XR.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Assfro, you still haven't articulated a plan which ensures you hit the bumps before you hit tires to something or other driveline parts.

The only real answer is to pull the springs and move the suspension through its range and measure. All the rest is BS.

Things that will affect clearance include your wheel backspace.

 

[ASSFROW]

Assfro, you still haven't articulated a plan which ensures you hit the bumps before you hit tires to something or other driveline parts.

The only real answer is to pull the springs and move the suspension through its range and measure. All the rest is BS.

Things that will affect clearance include your wheel backspace.

Yeah, but I don't wanna. I was hoping someone already had. I don't believe suspension, drivetrain or steering will limit up travel an additional 1.5". I put 35s on my stock Willys with 2.5" wheel spacers and nothing hit, not even the tires into the fenders, but I doubt I fully articulated the front end. You are correct though.

 

[ASSFROW]

The front of my Jeep uses the factory XR springs and a half-inch TF spacer. With the axle crossed (one tire stuffed, one dangling) when the up axle went up 4" the tire was rubbing the inside fenderwell. Shocks or bumpstops here made no difference. And my bumpstop fully compresses at 4", so I can go up 4".

When I put the half-inch spacer up front, the factory red XR shocks were pretty much fully extended. So I had minimal axle droop. I did some research, and figured the Fox 2.0 IFP shocks for a 2 to 3 inch lift would have enough compression, and give me more droop so if off-road, my tires should be contacting the ground at all times. And I wasn't breaking the bank buying the shocks. And I wasn't dropping the axle too much (I think the consensus is shocks should have no more than 29" extension or it can negatively damage the front driveshaft).

Like you, my Jeep (23 Willys XR 2.0T) is my daily driver with occasional off road (overlanding) and snow. I put half-inch spacers all around partly for looks, but also to put some more space in the front bumpstop. Less than $100 for all four spacers.

Mopar front LCAs. $65.00

Fox 2.0 IFP shocks for more droop and maybe improve the ride (can't really tell if it did to be truthful). $700?

IRO hydraulic bumpstops to increase bumpstop space. Don't want to be banging the bumpstops when overlanding. Not expensive - $300ish.

But I did dump some money into the axles. All this other stuff doesn't really help a lot off-road or in the snow if you don't have traction to the tires on the ground. So I put TrueTracs front and rear. This was MY priority. They're invisible on pavement, awesome in snow, and great for mild to moderate off-roading. Almost $4000.

Since I overland and pull a small teardrop trailer, I put Clayton 2.5" springs in the rear and removed the spacer. Whenever I get a winch and winch bumper up front, I'll put some Clayton 2.5" springs up front. And keep the Fox shocks.

One last request and I'll stop bugging you. How long are the bodies of the bumps you installed?

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