Advice/Help needed for new lift/suspension build

chris4prez

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Please point me in the right direction of what I should or should not be doing…

BACKGROUND: I’ve been lurking on this forum for around 3 months doing my research and just purchased and pending delivery of a fully loaded 2020 JLUR 3.6L. My first Jeep.

I have read far too many threads and posts across all sections, as well as, watched too many YouTube videos and read various blogs / review sites then I care to admit; ranging from those that shall not be named to large well-known reputable shops / reviewers.

I have gone so far down the hole I need to circle back with the experts (you guys!) to help ensure I am going in the right direction and not overlooking something and end up with my ideal solution that will work.

Details:
  • I will either be doing the Steer Smarts or Synergy Tie Rod, Drag Link, Front Track Bar setup. (Leaning Steer Smarts, and not looking to discuss the merits of either or here unless there is a technical reason to justify one over the other due to suggested lift kit)
  • If front and rear trackbar are included in lift kit, then I would use that over Steer Smarts or Synergy Front Track Bar (Unless there are technical merits that these would be far superior then what the lift kit provides.)
  • Steering Stabilizer will be a FOX ATS 2.0
  • I have decided coil overs are not an option (Cost and Maintenance are my reasoning for ruling out as an option)
  • 2.5 or 3.5 lift kit is acceptable
  • Shocks should be adjustable
  • 70% on road usage / 30% off road – Daily Driver
  • From a weight perspective:
    • I have the factory steel bumpers and will be upgrading to the AEV setup assuming it comes out before 2030.
    • Winch in front Warn Zeon 12s
    • Maximus-3 Rhino will be on roof
    • I am not looking to load it up too heavy beyond what’s listed
  • Ideally, I want to do adjustable shocks with remote reservoir
  • 37in tires (Nitto Ridge Grappler/KO2/KM3)
  • I am planning on doing AEV Savegre II Wheels
  • Wheel Spacers to make anything work is out of the question
What I am pondering:
  • The wheel I am looking at has a 5.77in backspace does that limit my lift kit options? If so, what would work with it? Or how to I modify other kits to work with this wheel.
    • Clearly the AEV JL 2.5 Dualsport RT will work or they would not sell it.
    • What lift kits would work with a 5.77in backspaced wheel?
    • How big of a deal is it to have springs tuned to your shocks?
Components I would like to use:
  • Fox Race Series 3.0 Internal Bypass reservoir shocks or Fox Race Series 2.5 Reservoir Shocks or King 2.5 Remote Reservoir with adjuster
  • AEV Savegre II Wheel with 5.77in backspace
  • 37in tires
  • The following brands seem to have nice kits: MetalCloak (Hate the goldish coating), Rock Krawler, EVO but it seems like the kits may not work with a 5.77in backspacing. (Why? - Can someone explain to me why)
Summary: Please help me spiral in the right direction on the correct lift kit setup to ensure I can build a killer fully adjustable set up around the Savegre II 5.77in backpacked wheel, using no wheel spacers, 37in tires, and have ability of maximum articulation using adjustable reservoir-ed shocks. Not super concerned with cost as long as total cost comes under a coilover setup price. Ideally working in King or Fox adjustable shocks. (Unless you can suggest something better for my needs)

Ask away if I missed something that will help suggest the correct setup to me. All opinions are accepted and will be helpful, as I assume many people will look at this in different perspectives.
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vavaroutsos

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Please point me in the right direction of what I should or should not be doing…

BACKGROUND: I’ve been lurking on this forum for around 3 months doing my research and just purchased and pending delivery of a fully loaded 2020 JLUR 3.6L. My first Jeep.

I have read far too many threads and posts across all sections, as well as, watched too many YouTube videos and read various blogs / review sites then I care to admit; ranging from those that shall not be named to large well-known reputable shops / reviewers.

I have gone so far down the hole I need to circle back with the experts (you guys!) to help ensure I am going in the right direction and not overlooking something and end up with my ideal solution that will work.

Details:
  • I will either be doing the Steer Smarts or Synergy Tie Rod, Drag Link, Front Track Bar setup. (Leaning Steer Smarts, and not looking to discuss the merits of either or here unless there is a technical reason to justify one over the other due to suggested lift kit)
  • If front and rear trackbar are included in lift kit, then I would use that over Steer Smarts or Synergy Front Track Bar (Unless there are technical merits that these would be far superior then what the lift kit provides.)
  • Steering Stabilizer will be a FOX ATS 2.0
  • I have decided coil overs are not an option (Cost and Maintenance are my reasoning for ruling out as an option)
  • 2.5 or 3.5 lift kit is acceptable
  • Shocks should be adjustable
  • 70% on road usage / 30% off road – Daily Driver
  • From a weight perspective:
    • I have the factory steel bumpers and will be upgrading to the AEV setup assuming it comes out before 2030.
    • Winch in front Warn Zeon 12s
    • Maximus-3 Rhino will be on roof
    • I am not looking to load it up too heavy beyond what’s listed
  • Ideally, I want to do adjustable shocks with remote reservoir
  • 37in tires (Nitto Ridge Grappler/KO2/KM3)
  • I am planning on doing AEV Savegre II Wheels
  • Wheel Spacers to make anything work is out of the question
What I am pondering:
  • The wheel I am looking at has a 5.77in backspace does that limit my lift kit options? If so, what would work with it? Or how to I modify other kits to work with this wheel.
    • Clearly the AEV JL 2.5 Dualsport RT will work or they would not sell it.
    • What lift kits would work with a 5.77in backspaced wheel?
    • How big of a deal is it to have springs tuned to your shocks?
Components I would like to use:
  • Fox Race Series 3.0 Internal Bypass reservoir shocks or Fox Race Series 2.5 Reservoir Shocks or King 2.5 Remote Reservoir with adjuster
  • AEV Savegre II Wheel with 5.77in backspace
  • 37in tires
  • The following brands seem to have nice kits: MetalCloak (Hate the goldish coating), Rock Krawler, EVO but it seems like the kits may not work with a 5.77in backspacing. (Why? - Can someone explain to me why)
Summary: Please help me spiral in the right direction on the correct lift kit setup to ensure I can build a killer fully adjustable set up around the Savegre II 5.77in backpacked wheel, using no wheel spacers, 37in tires, and have ability of maximum articulation using adjustable reservoir-ed shocks. Not super concerned with cost as long as total cost comes under a coilover setup price. Ideally working in King or Fox adjustable shocks. (Unless you can suggest something better for my needs)

Ask away if I missed something that will help suggest the correct setup to me. All opinions are accepted and will be helpful, as I assume many people will look at this in different perspectives.
I think the backspacing of those wheels is going to be a problem with 37s at full articulation. You have the advantage of the wider Rubicon axles, but I'm not sure that's enough, especially with 3.0 shocks.

Regarding tire clearance and lift kits, you need to look at the lower control arms. Some aren't bent as much, or at all, for tire clearance.

If you want maximum articulation from coils, I think you only have three choices: Metalcloak, Synergy, or Rockrawler. These springs seem to have longer extended lengths than most, Metalcloak being the longest. The Synergy coils appear to have the softest spring rates (not everyone is publishing full specs).

You will tune your shocks, not coils. This is best done by the pros if you have never done it. The Fox DSC shocks offer quite a range of compression damping adjustment with the knobs, but still require main shim stack valving for best performance. I favor Fox over King as they use better shafts and seals for the money at most price points. The 3.0 are overkill and will exasperate the backspace problem.

You want control arms with some type of high mis-alignment joints. I would avoid Heims due to NVH and your 70% on road usage. I personally prefer Johnny joints. Core4x4 has a range of arms and track bars at reasonable prices. The tier 4 has Johnny joints on both ends.

The Steersmarts track bar is the beefiest. However, the adjusting collar and bolts are quite bulky and can cause clearance problems. I have heard the Metalcloak requires some grinding to fit.

Don't forget some good bump stops. King make some nice air bumps for both the front and rear of the JL. I would also do some RCV axles and a FAD truss up from with 37s. If you have the six speed manual, I would re-gear as well (maybe 5.13).
 
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chris4prez

chris4prez

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I think the backspacing of those wheels is going to be a problem with 37s at full articulation. You have the advantage of the wider Rubicon axles, but I'm not sure that's enough, especially with 3.0 shocks.

Regarding tire clearance and lift kits, you need to look at the lower control arms. Some aren't bent as much, or at all, for tire clearance.

If you want maximum articulation from coils, I think you only have three choices: Metalcloak, Synergy, or Rockrawler. These springs seem to have longer extended lengths than most, Metalcloak being the longest. The Synergy coils appear to have the softest spring rates (not everyone is publishing full specs).

You will tune your shocks, not coils. This best done by the pros if you have never done it. The Fox DSC shocks offer quite a range of compression damping adjustment with the knobs, but still require main shim stack valving for best performance. I favor Fox over King as they use better shafts and seals for the money at most price points. The 3.0 are overkill and will exasperate the backspace problem.

You want control arms with some type of high mis-alignment joints. I would avoid Heims due to NVH and your 70% on road usage. I personally prefer Johnny joints. Core4x4 has a range of arms and track bars at reasonable prices. The their 4 has Johnny joints on both ends.

The Steersmarts track bar is the beefiest. However, the adjusting collar and bolts are quite bulky and can cause clearance problems. I have heard the Metalcloak requires some grinding to fit.

Don't forget some good bump stops. King make some nice air bumps for both the front and rear of the JL. I would also do some RCV axles and a FAD truss up from with 37s. If you have the six speed manual, I would re-gear as well (maybe 5.13).
Thanks. I should also mention I do indeed plan on swapping out the axel long term to an ultimate 44 with fad removal and regearing to at least 4.88(auto)

I’ll def look into the core4x4 I have not done much research on them yet. Will most shops tune the shocks or just slap them on and I need to look for a speciality place? Do you suggest I piecemeal the springs, arms, end links from multiple vendors or have a full kit in mind that might be a good choice?
 

vavaroutsos

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Thanks. I should also mention I do indeed plan on swapping out the axel long term to an ultimate 44 with fad removal and regearing to at least 4.88(auto)

I’ll def look into the core4x4 I have not done much research on them yet. Will most shops tune the shocks or just slap them on and I need to look for a speciality place? Do you suggest I piecemeal the springs, arms, end links from multiple vendors or have a full kit in mind that might be a good choice?
You will probably need to get the shocks from a specialty shop like Accutune or Filthy Motorsports if you want custom tuning. King and Fox also offer tuning days where you can meet them and they tune for you. I'm not sure the cost, but I have heard some are free. I think most are held in socal around Johnson Valley.

As far as putting a lift together vs buying a kit, I would say it depends on your experience and ability. I do feel the best value is in picking the components yourself, but you do need to do some engineering and take some measurements.

As for FAD removal, that's fine, but I think a set of RCV axles and a truss would be more bang for the buck. The U joints have a hard time handling the torque when the steering is turned. RCV says there's an 8% difference in strength between their FAD and non-FAD axles. I also don't like the idea of no-FAD without locking hubs. The later are my preference, but I'm unaware of a solution for the Advantek 44 axle.
 

word302

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Why are you stuck on those wheels. That's way too much backspacing for 37s and serious articulation. AEV stuff is way over-hyped and way overpriced. If real articulation is what you're after get a Metalcloak game changer or Rock Krawler x-factor. Why are you stuck on remote reservoir shocks? Unless you're desert racing they're borderline overkill. You get incredible value in shocks from both of the manufacturers I mentioned. If you're set on spending big money on shocks call accutune. Even better if you're close enough to take your rig to them to custom-valve a set of shocks for you. As far as wheels go you're going to want 4.5" backspacing at most. I run 3.5" with a 3.5" Rock Krawler X-factor and their RRD 2.25 shocks with 37" Trail Grapplers. It's a pretty amazing combination.
 

Roky

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Please point me in the right direction of what I should or should not be doing…

BACKGROUND: I’ve been lurking on this forum for around 3 months doing my research and just purchased and pending delivery of a fully loaded 2020 JLUR 3.6L. My first Jeep.

I have read far too many threads and posts across all sections, as well as, watched too many YouTube videos and read various blogs / review sites then I care to admit; ranging from those that shall not be named to large well-known reputable shops / reviewers.

I have gone so far down the hole I need to circle back with the experts (you guys!) to help ensure I am going in the right direction and not overlooking something and end up with my ideal solution that will work.

Details:
  • I will either be doing the Steer Smarts or Synergy Tie Rod, Drag Link, Front Track Bar setup. (Leaning Steer Smarts, and not looking to discuss the merits of either or here unless there is a technical reason to justify one over the other due to suggested lift kit)
  • If front and rear trackbar are included in lift kit, then I would use that over Steer Smarts or Synergy Front Track Bar (Unless there are technical merits that these would be far superior then what the lift kit provides.)
  • Steering Stabilizer will be a FOX ATS 2.0
  • I have decided coil overs are not an option (Cost and Maintenance are my reasoning for ruling out as an option)
  • 2.5 or 3.5 lift kit is acceptable
  • Shocks should be adjustable
  • 70% on road usage / 30% off road – Daily Driver
  • From a weight perspective:
    • I have the factory steel bumpers and will be upgrading to the AEV setup assuming it comes out before 2030.
    • Winch in front Warn Zeon 12s
    • Maximus-3 Rhino will be on roof
    • I am not looking to load it up too heavy beyond what’s listed
  • Ideally, I want to do adjustable shocks with remote reservoir
  • 37in tires (Nitto Ridge Grappler/KO2/KM3)
  • I am planning on doing AEV Savegre II Wheels
  • Wheel Spacers to make anything work is out of the question
What I am pondering:
  • The wheel I am looking at has a 5.77in backspace does that limit my lift kit options? If so, what would work with it? Or how to I modify other kits to work with this wheel.
    • Clearly the AEV JL 2.5 Dualsport RT will work or they would not sell it.
    • What lift kits would work with a 5.77in backspaced wheel?
    • How big of a deal is it to have springs tuned to your shocks?
Components I would like to use:
  • Fox Race Series 3.0 Internal Bypass reservoir shocks or Fox Race Series 2.5 Reservoir Shocks or King 2.5 Remote Reservoir with adjuster
  • AEV Savegre II Wheel with 5.77in backspace
  • 37in tires
  • The following brands seem to have nice kits: MetalCloak (Hate the goldish coating), Rock Krawler, EVO but it seems like the kits may not work with a 5.77in backspacing. (Why? - Can someone explain to me why)
Summary: Please help me spiral in the right direction on the correct lift kit setup to ensure I can build a killer fully adjustable set up around the Savegre II 5.77in backpacked wheel, using no wheel spacers, 37in tires, and have ability of maximum articulation using adjustable reservoir-ed shocks. Not super concerned with cost as long as total cost comes under a coilover setup price. Ideally working in King or Fox adjustable shocks. (Unless you can suggest something better for my needs)

Ask away if I missed something that will help suggest the correct setup to me. All opinions are accepted and will be helpful, as I assume many people will look at this in different perspectives.
It sounds like you’ve done your research. My opinion is to rethink your wheel selection, that’s the easy way out. That wheel and the 37 tire and the articulation you’re after, is only going to be achieved with wheel spacers.

As for waiting on aev that’s up to you, I personally wouldn’t wait for them. A good company, don’t get me wrong, I just think there is equivalent to better companies out there now with great products. Unless you want to piece together a lift, I think the rk xfactor or mc game changer is the best out there right now for off road articulation and on the road handling. Fox shocks pair really well with rk springs.

As far as the gold color, I know guys that powder coated and it’s holding up really well.

Anyway, my fl brother, that’s just my .02, I’m an hour north of you, if you want to wheel it when you get it put together, give me a shout.
 
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chris4prez

chris4prez

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Why are you stuck on those wheels. That's way too much backspacing for 37s and serious articulation. AEV stuff is way over-hyped and way overpriced. If real articulation is what you're after get a Metalcloak game changer or Rock Krawler x-factor. Why are you stuck on remote reservoir shocks? Unless you're desert racing they're borderline overkill. You get incredible value in shocks from both of the manufacturers I mentioned. If you're set on spending big money on shocks call accutune. Even better if you're close enough to take your rig to them to custom-valve a set of shocks for you. As far as wheels go you're going to want 4.5" backspacing at most. I run 3.5" with a 3.5" Rock Krawler X-factor and their RRD 2.25 shocks with 37" Trail Grapplers. It's a pretty amazing combination.
I’m stuck on the wheels as they do not stick out too much and should I move to a commie state that limits wheel poke I’m in the safer side of things from a daily driver perspective. (Never know where work may go) Long term if I have to get wheeling wheels for trips and off road days then I intend to (Beadlocks of course) for max articulation. However I want my kit to work for daily and lazy short trip where I just don’t take the time to swap. Basically I want the best of both worlds.

Lastly, let’s be honest too. We all want to achieve some level of mall crawler status level up or we would never pain over looks and upgrades so much. And I just love the look of the wheels and how different they are from everything else out there. I’m tired of seeing the same 10 wheels or similar design on 70% of Jeeps. (Pseudo beadlock, fuel anything, etc.)
 
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chris4prez

chris4prez

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It sounds like you’ve done your research. My opinion is to rethink your wheel selection, that’s the easy way out. That wheel and the 37 tire and the articulation you’re after, is only going to be achieved with wheel spacers.

As for waiting on aev that’s up to you, I personally wouldn’t wait for them. A good company, don’t get me wrong, I just think there is equivalent to better companies out there now with great products. Unless you want to piece together a lift, I think the rk xfactor or mc game changer is the best out there right now for off road articulation and on the road handling. Fox shocks pair really well with rk springs.

As far as the gold color, I know guys that powder coated and it’s holding up really well.

Anyway, my fl brother, that’s just my .02, I’m an hour north of you, if you want to wheel it when you get it put together, give me a shout.
It sounds like you’ve done your research. My opinion is to rethink your wheel selection, that’s the easy way out. That wheel and the 37 tire and the articulation you’re after, is only going to be achieved with wheel spacers.

As for waiting on aev that’s up to you, I personally wouldn’t wait for them. A good company, don’t get me wrong, I just think there is equivalent to better companies out there now with great products. Unless you want to piece together a lift, I think the rk xfactor or mc game changer is the best out there right now for off road articulation and on the road handling. Fox shocks pair really well with rk springs.

As far as the gold color, I know guys that powder coated and it’s holding up really well.

Anyway, my fl brother, that’s just my .02, I’m an hour north of you, if you want to wheel it when you get it put together, give me a shout.
Yes, MC and RK is what I keep coming back to. Regarding Fox pairing really well with the RK springs is that first hand experience, buddies running the setup, or see plenty of data out that inferring as such?

Def would love to wheel and will reach out.

I hear you on the AEV setup I know it’s a polarizing choice loved by some disliked by many and I get it. I seem to keep coming back to it most vs everything else as it does have a more refined OEM look vs. everything out there that def looks more specialized rugged off road setup. I want to like something else but can’t seem to find something to my aesthetic liking. Second runner up for front and rear continues to be LOD setup which indeed looks more rugged than refined however has top notch build quality.
 

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Yes, MC and RK is what I keep coming back to. Regarding Fox pairing really well with the RK springs is that first hand experience, buddies running the setup, or see plenty of data out that inferring as such?

Def would love to wheel and will reach out.

I hear you on the AEV setup I know it’s a polarizing choice loved by some disliked by many and I get it. I seem to keep coming back to it most vs everything else as it does have a more refined OEM look vs. everything out there that def looks more specialized rugged off road setup. I want to like something else but can’t seem to find something to my aesthetic liking. Second runner up for front and rear continues to be LOD setup which indeed looks more rugged than refined however has top notch build quality.
I was in another rig , some dude I met in the forest where we wheel most of the time, that had fox shocks and rk springs.

Also I haven’t heard any negative feedback from the combination. When fox tuned their new shocks rk was one of the springs used, not exclusively, but was one of them. I’m a lod fanboy, there stuff is definitely top shelf.

You can check out my garage page, there’s some pics in there of rk flexing. Their rrd 2.25 racing shocks are pretty sweet, and I liked that the shocks are tuned to the springs. If and when I change shocks, it will most likely be fox.
 

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I’m stuck on the wheels as they do not stick out too much and should I move to a commie state that limits wheel poke I’m in the safer side of things from a daily driver perspective. (Never know where work may go) Long term if I have to get wheeling wheels for trips and off road days then I intend to (Beadlocks of course) for max articulation.
Your trying to do something that is limited by geometry, not just what looks good. The bigger tires coupled with greater articulation requires the tire to be pushed out further from the frame so it doesn't hit anything when it gets stuffed into the fender well. Unfortunately you will have to compromise and pick what's most important to you - tire size, articulation or track width. If you don't want the tires sticking out, you'll have to settle for smaller tires or limit your travel with more bump stop (which still won't solve clearance issues with the control arms)
 

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Simplify it from the bottom up ..........Tire size desired effects everything:

Wheels upgrade
spacing needed to clear frame, control arms, inner fenders etc..
rim width increase
Suspension upgrade
increased clearance needed for full suspension travel for tire size desired
more lift = more mods for track bars, sway bars
Gearing upgrade
up to 35" not likely needed with 4:10 gears

Here's a Rubicon with 37's and no lift. Wheel back spacing is 4.3 with 8.5" wide rims.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-37s-no-lift.15993/#post-391043

From what I've seen here, 4.5" backspace is about the average most are doing with larger tires on a Rubicon.
2.5" lift will prob work fine. Adding heavy bumper, winch, etc may be better to have more lift as you loose a little with the added weight.
 

word302

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I’m stuck on the wheels as they do not stick out too much and should I move to a commie state that limits wheel poke I’m in the safer side of things from a daily driver perspective. (Never know where work may go) Long term if I have to get wheeling wheels for trips and off road days then I intend to (Beadlocks of course) for max articulation. However I want my kit to work for daily and lazy short trip where I just don’t take the time to swap. Basically I want the best of both worlds.

Lastly, let’s be honest too. We all want to achieve some level of mall crawler status level up or we would never pain over looks and upgrades so much. And I just love the look of the wheels and how different they are from everything else out there. I’m tired of seeing the same 10 wheels or similar design on 70% of Jeeps. (Pseudo beadlock, fuel anything, etc.)
I get it, but those wheels are going to cause you all kinds of problems. I added some quick release mud flaps to keep the cops at bay. Haven't had a single issue running real headlocks thanks to all the fake ones out there.
 

TheKiwi

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Hello so I'm finishing up my geometry on the front end I'm just curious if anyone knows of a track bar that is slightly shorter than factory
, Thanks
 
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chris4prez

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Ok guys after spiraling further and reviewing everything said here it sounds like I need to throw the AEV wheels out of the equation and rethink my build:

Wheels
I am now leaning towards: fifteen52 - Traverse HD
Backspace: 4.75in (Much closer to the desired 4.5in | Assuming this is going to open me up to better suspension options and reduce rubbing/clearance concerns greatly vs. a 5.77 backspace)
Offset: ET0
https://fifteen52.com/collections/o...verse-hd-asphalt-black?variant=16523561369666
fifteen52-offroad-traverse-hd-asphalt-black-6-lug-1_150x150.jpg

Gearing upgrade
I plan on going to the 4.88 to account for 37in tires long term and this may likely mean Ultimate AdvanTEK D44 at same time.

Front End
I would still plan on going steer smarts or synergy for drag link / tie rod / track bar (if not included in suspension kit) + Fox ATS Stabilizer​

This now puts the following suspension in my sights as the go foward options. Sway me in one direction or another:

Suspension upgrade

Mopar 2in lift + additional parts - i.e. trackbars, adjustable control arms (if needed), RK spring perches
  • LOGIC: Seeing most of the reservoir shocks are likely overkill for needs, this is a great moderate priced kit which can be added to, to get it to very usable level and solve the complaints some people have with it. (Yes, I understand it would not have as much articulation as say a Rock Krawler setup due to shorter shocks, but it seems alot of people do really well with it.) I'm looking at this as the close to OEM/Budget build setup.
  • And I will say this here before someone else brings it up. I hear the springs can bow some and folks state it's on purpose or it's not on purpose, I see it both ways, and worse case I'm sure I can swap them for another spring as I have seen some folks do on this forum.
Accutune - Stage 4 2.5lift with 2.5 Fox Remote Reservoir DSC shocks.
https://accutuneoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-jl-2-5-lift-kit-stage-4/
  • LOGIC: This would be the high end fully adjustable end of the spectrum that should allow everything to be dialed in but may be overkill and just a waste of money.
  • Question: If I go this route would it require a lot more maintenance vs. the Mopar? it looks like the CAs require greasing vs. some of the others on the market not requiring greasing?

Thoughts?
 

word302

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Ok guys after spiraling further and reviewing everything said here it sounds like I need to throw the AEV wheels out of the equation and rethink my build:

Wheels
I am now leaning towards: fifteen52 - Traverse HD
Backspace: 4.75in (Much closer to the desired 4.5in | Assuming this is going to open me up to better suspension options and reduce rubbing/clearance concerns greatly vs. a 5.77 backspace)
Offset: ET0
https://fifteen52.com/collections/o...verse-hd-asphalt-black?variant=16523561369666
fifteen52-offroad-traverse-hd-asphalt-black-6-lug-1_150x150.jpg

Gearing upgrade
I plan on going to the 4.88 to account for 37in tires long term and this may likely mean Ultimate AdvanTEK D44 at same time.

Front End
I would still plan on going steer smarts or synergy for drag link / tie rod / track bar (if not included in suspension kit) + Fox ATS Stabilizer​
This now puts the following suspension in my sights as the go foward options. Sway me in one direction or another:

Suspension upgrade

Mopar 2in lift + additional parts - i.e. trackbars, adjustable control arms (if needed), RK spring perches
  • LOGIC: Seeing most of the reservoir shocks are likely overkill for needs, this is a great moderate priced kit which can be added to, to get it to very usable level and solve the complaints some people have with it. (Yes, I understand it would not have as much articulation as say a Rock Krawler setup due to shorter shocks, but it seems alot of people do really well with it.) I'm looking at this as the close to OEM/Budget build setup.
  • And I will say this here before someone else brings it up. I hear the springs can bow some and folks state it's on purpose or it's not on purpose, I see it both ways, and worse case I'm sure I can swap them for another spring as I have seen some folks do on this forum.
Accutune - Stage 4 2.5lift with 2.5 Fox Remote Reservoir DSC shocks.
https://accutuneoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-jl-2-5-lift-kit-stage-4/
  • LOGIC: This would be the high end fully adjustable end of the spectrum that should allow everything to be dialed in but may be overkill and just a waste of money.
  • Question: If I go this route would it require a lot more maintenance vs. the Mopar? it looks like the CAs require greasing vs. some of the others on the market not requiring greasing?
Thoughts?
With those wheels I would recommend the Metalcloak game changer. By the time you "fix" the Mopar lift it will cost you the same or more. The Metalcloak lift will perform better on and off road. You'd need a little less backspacing to run the Rock Krawler lift.
 
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