Best Setup for RV Flat Tow

lightsout

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Wow - I don't want to get into an argument about semantics (you were the one who used the word "progressive") and it's apparent you are convinced what you know is the last word. Sorry - I've towed so many different vehicles in the last ten years, from very lightweight Scions to 8K lbs diesel crew 4X4 pickups, and lots in between. And I've used the RVi brake for so many of those, under so many conditions - all behind a diesel pusher though so my experience does have that caveat. And, I've gone down LONG steep grades of varying slope - all the while my RVi has braked the way it is intended - progressively, and applying the brakes when I tap the brakes in the coach. But maybe you're not aware that braking is done a little differently in something with air brakes - and that action does indeed apply the toad brakes with the RVi. But let's not throw the Patriot in there - that device uses a whole different technology, and shouldn't be compared to a RVi brake. As for the Invisibrake vs. RVi - I'll stick with my RVi thanks.

You can puff your chest as much as you wish. I purchased the Ready Brake, Patriot 3 and the RVI all last year and tested each one over a mountain pass that we travel every time, all were crap. By the way the RVI does not even engage with a tap of the RV brakes it takes more significant braking to engage and that is consistent with all three mentioned above. Having used and experienced all three is the exact sale location and situation you can take my summary or NOT. I even called RVI as they claimed it was progressive, however when I challenged them regarding how it braked on long downhill descents they admitted that it is not always a progressive braking system it depends on the descending or stopping conditions. While it is good at stopping both the Patriot and RVI are not great at simply slowing down on long grades as there is not enough inertia change to engage these systems. There is a reason that Invisabrake is the #1 used and recommended braking system it is truly a mirrored braking system whereas wireless system are not capable of. Again this was my conclusion after towing with all of these and then looking at all options both wired and wireless.





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Durango

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You can puff your chest as much as you wish. I purchased the Ready Brake, Patriot 3 and the RVI all last year and tested each one over a mountain pass that we travel every time, all were crap. By the way the RVI does not even engage with a tap of the RV brakes it takes more significant braking to engage and that is consistent with all three mentioned above. Having used and experienced all three is the exact sale location and situation you can take my summary or NOT. I even called RVI as they claimed it was progressive, however when I challenged them regarding how it braked on long downhill descents they admitted that it is not always a progressive braking system it depends on the descending or stopping conditions. While it is good at stopping both the Patriot and RVI are not great at simply slowing down on long grades as there is not enough inertia change to engage these systems. There is a reason that Invisabrake is the #1 used and recommended braking system it is truly a mirrored braking system whereas wireless system are not capable of. Again this was my conclusion after towing with all of these and then looking at all options both wired and wireless.
Puff, puff. Wow. You know everything, don't you. I've also used three different braking devices over the years, and will take the RVi over the others ANY day. Although you have made it clear you know best, some of us have other experience and believe otherwise. But I guess we have to defer to your opinion. And BTW - I don't for a minute believe your BS about RVi telling you "it is not always a progressive braking system" - I think you hear what you want to. You can keep posting and puffing, but I'll stick with the RVi thank you... (oh yes, I have, as I said, towed my 8K lb trucks using these systems, and down steep grades. Oh yea, though, your experience negates everyone else's...)
 

Hypalon Man

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Certainly no problems with the RVi3 towing our 18JL Wrangler behind a Winnebago Class C Mercedes Benz TD Sprinter.
Our Mountains have been limited to the Smokies and Cumberlands thus far.
 

terrytnt

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Ordering my 2020 Rubicon and will switch my Blue Ox base plate (from my 2018 JL 2 dr Sport) to the new Rubicon so I can tow from my RV. Question: Will there be any problems using the 'Steel Bumper Set" vs. the plastic bumpers?

many thanks guys....
 

Jmonroe

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Ordering my 2020 Rubicon and will switch my Blue Ox base plate (from my 2018 JL 2 dr Sport) to the new Rubicon so I can tow from my RV. Question: Will there be any problems using the 'Steel Bumper Set" vs. the plastic bumpers? many thanks guys....
My neighbor has a 2018 JL Rubi with the Blue Ox baseplate. Suggests to me you'll have no issues.

You can access illustrated directions on the Blue Ox web site.
 

lightsout

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You can puff your chest as much as you wish. I purchased the Ready Brake, Patriot 3 and the RVI all last year and tested each one over a mountain pass that we travel every time, all were crap. By the way the RVI does not even engage with a tap of the RV brakes it takes more significant braking to engage and that is consistent with all three mentioned above. Having used and experienced all three is the exact sale location and situation you can take my summary or NOT. I even called RVI as they claimed it was progressive, however when I challenged them regarding how it braked on long downhill descents they admitted that it is not always a progressive braking system it depends on the descending or stopping conditions. While it is good at stopping both the Patriot and RVI are not great at simply slowing down on long grades as there is not enough inertia change to engage these systems. There is a reason that Invisabrake is the #1 used and recommended braking system it is truly a mirrored braking system whereas wireless system are not capable of. Again this was my conclusion after towing with all of these and then looking at all options both wired and wireless.
I am just sharing my experience, I tested all three systems over the course of 5 months with using each on one of the steepest and longest pass descents on the west coast (Stevens Pass and Chinook Pass. We cross these two passes in 90% of our travels which is why I am so critical of braking systems. While inertia wireless braking may be fine for flat lands it is not sufficient for extensive mountain decents based on my real world experience over those 5 months with the 3 systems.

Let me also say that this was also pulling with a Class A Gas (2017 Bounder 35K) whereas a Diesel Pusher likely would have been a better outcome due to the engine braking,

We Sold our Class A in Sept and purchase a new 42' 5th Wheel weighting in at 16,000lbs pulling with a new 2019 Ram 3500 (we have already pulled it across the country over several mountain passes). Whereas the braking is a wired connection between truck and trailer (similar to invisabrake) and with the upgraded disc brakes on the 5er my braking is 10 fold better than any of the systems I tried with the Class A/Wrangler combination, I feel in total control now.

With that said I will never tow again without a true progressive and responsive wired braking system. I am just under 26000 lb with the 5er and the Class A with jeep was at 22,000 lb and I can stop the 5er in almost half the distance I could the Class A/Wrangler.

Look wireless braking is flawed it has to rely on significant inertia to activate braking, there will always be an in-balance between Motorhome and toad braking levels with wireless that is the nature of the beast. Whereas wired is a balanced braking system for all stopping events.

Considering the cost between wireless systems and hard wired they are the same however the wired braking is without question more balanced and responsive, that is fundemental. Also with wired it is plug and play, no set up required like the wireless, no disconnects like the wireless, No box to store like the wireless.

I am not telling anyone what to do just advising on my experience. If I did not live and travel in mountainess terrain I might be more forgiving of the wireless systems.

Let me finish by saying we had a brake failure event caused by one of the wireless braking systems which is why I ended up trying three different system in that short period and the issue was related to inertial braking we had to stop 2/3 down a long steep pass and the lack of Toad braking over heated our RV brakes they were smoking and bright RED metal when we stopped. I ended up replacing the OEM brakes (that had only 4000 miles on them) I did learn though that the Ford F53 (which almost ALL class A gas are built on) Chassis stock brakes are sub standard.

When you are going down 6 miles of steep decent where downshifting alone will not slow you below speed limits but braking to slow you will not activate the wireless inertia toad braking you are straining your RV brakes and creates a significant safety issue. We also noticed that after every long steep decent that when we stopped the interior of the wrangler had a strong odor of heated brakes, this was because the inertia wireless systems were not helping enough and stressing the RV brakes.

Again had we been only in the flat lands I never would have seen these issues.
 

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OK I can see this post has a lot of knowable guys... I have in the past towed my TJ on my Class B Chinook Destiny https://www.jbewing.com/ForSale/RV/ and now have a JLR 2 door and want to put the following JL TOW LOOPS on https://maximus-3.com/jl-bumper-accessories-/jl-tow-loops#/ as I still have my old Blue Ox Alpha Tow Bar BX7365 https://www.blueox.com/tow-bars/bx7365/

Your comments please... Also I did not put any braking system on as the Chinook worked well even in the mountains of western NC/eastern TN. FYI I have Rubicon Steel bumpers was going to use these lights since I do not tow that much... https://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Wiring/MaxxTow/MT70097.html

Thanks in advance for your comments.
 

RonAZ

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If your motorhome has airbrakes the M&G seems to be the simplest with no electronics or inside the Jeep mounting required. The problem is that Jeep has not left enough room for it anymore. It would be sweet if the coach came with the red trailer brake valve and plumbing already installed. Even without the plumbing is pretty easy.
I was going down this path until I decided to pull a [email protected] rather than pulling the Jeep.
 

lightsout

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OK I can see this post has a lot of knowable guys... I have in the past towed my TJ on my Class B Chinook Destiny https://www.jbewing.com/ForSale/RV/ and now have a JLR 2 door and want to put the following JL TOW LOOPS on https://maximus-3.com/jl-bumper-accessories-/jl-tow-loops#/ as I still have my old Blue Ox Alpha Tow Bar BX7365 https://www.blueox.com/tow-bars/bx7365/

Your comments please... Also I did not put any braking system on as the Chinook worked well even in the mountains of western NC/eastern TN. FYI I have Rubicon Steel bumpers was going to use these lights since I do not tow that much... https://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Wiring/MaxxTow/MT70097.html

Thanks in advance for your comments.
A Stock 2d JLR is 4000lb the Law requires a braking system (full Stop). Walk a tight rope long enough and you are bound to fall eventually. Whats to keep the Toad from jack-knifing in a hard stop without Toad brakes???
 

Nickmimi

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Anyone using the Demco stay in play duo for a braking system. It seems to work like the invisibrake but uses both the brake lights and inertia for braking. I have a 30 foot Fleetwood class A that will be pulling a 2019 JLUR. I purchased the nighthawk towbar and installed the cool tech wiring for lights. Thanks
 

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OK I can see this post has a lot of knowable guys... I have in the past towed my TJ on my Class B Chinook Destiny https://www.jbewing.com/ForSale/RV/ and now have a JLR 2 door and want to put the following JL TOW LOOPS on https://maximus-3.com/jl-bumper-accessories-/jl-tow-loops#/ as I still have my old Blue Ox Alpha Tow Bar BX7365 https://www.blueox.com/tow-bars/bx7365/

Your comments please... Also I did not put any braking system on as the Chinook worked well even in the mountains of western NC/eastern TN. FYI I have Rubicon Steel bumpers was going to use these lights since I do not tow that much... https://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Wiring/MaxxTow/MT70097.html

Thanks in advance for your comments.
Mac. . . I have a 2-door JLR Rubi with a steel bumper and went with the Maximus tow loops. I am very happy with the setup and like the clean look and having less stuff extending in front of me to bang into things. Others in this thread and forums have the standard bumper with the same tow loops, no issues as you might have read already. I'm not familiar with your tow bar - I have the BO Ascent - but make sure the adapter (the parts that fit over the tow loops) - are compatible with your tow bar. I had to remove the BO versions and buy compatible adapters from Maximus. Pin size should be the same as the holes, too, to avoid movement. You probably know this, but I've read the tow bars have a lifespan and those with a lot of miles might require maintenance or replacement.

If you've read a bunch in this thread, you've also noted the suggestion for wiring harnesses (I went with Cooltech, very happy), battery tender / charger (I use the one from RVi), and as others have pointed out, a braking system is not just a good idea, but the law in most, if not all, states. I have the RVi and am very happy with that as well. In one of my earlier posts I noted the standard safety cables that came with my BO tow bar didn't really fit on the lower hole of the Maximus tow loops, so I added rated clips that did fit. No issues. I also added an "always hot" 12v outlet under my dash for connecting to the RVi braking unit.

Don't forget to make sure your RV hitch aligns horizontally with the tow loops within specs i.e. almost level when on level ground to avoid creating a potential jackknife condition.

Good luck and safe travels!
 

lightsout

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Anyone using the Demco stay in play duo for a braking system. It seems to work like the invisibrake but uses both the brake lights and inertia for braking. I have a 30 foot Fleetwood class A that will be pulling a 2019 JLUR. I purchased the nighthawk towbar and installed the cool tech wiring for lights. Thanks
So in 2018 we had a 33' Fleetwood Bounder and then in 2019 we sold the 33 and bout a 35' Bounder, we towed our Sahara with both. Our Sahara weighed in at 4900lb (100lb below the max tow rating of the Fleetwood chassis). Hence the reason we purchased the Sahara over Rubicon because with any mods on a Rubi you will likely be over weight for your Fleetwoods MAX tow rating. Because we were at the limit braking was a HUGE challenge. Our Fleetwoods were 2014 and the last one a 2017. I ended up replacing the brakes on both rigs as the stock brakes on the Ford Chassis are garbage at least for stopping heavy TOADS, they had a tendency to badly over heat.

While many here do, I would never tow Wrangler again with inertial based braking on a Gas Class A (we do a lot of mountain passes with our travels) your RV brakes are not enough to effectively stop a 5000lb + Toad on a regular bases in Pass environments without excessive heat, it cost me a set of RV brakes on my new Class A.

We sold our Class A a couple months ago and bought a new (16,000lb) 41' 5th Wheel where we have full wired progressive braking and it is wonderful, I now feel in compete control whereas with inertia braking sometimes there is no braking when you need it and you can only rely on your motorhome brakes. With a Diesel Tow vehicle (TV) you have engine braking with gas you have none of that except down shifting which still requires braking on steep decent's which can easily over heat your TV brakes as inertia braking is not very effective in that senario when you are just trying to maintain a speed of decent as there is often not enough inertia to activate the TOAD brakes.

All I can say is once you experience TRUE progressive wired braking you will NEVER use inertial braking again...

Also one thing I have learned from the 5th Wheel community, if you are towing beyond your rated limits be prepared to be scrutinized by law enforcement and insurance in the event of an accident. If you have any mods weigh your Wrangler before you tow to document you are likely below the limits. Law enforcement is watching for this these days, so are insurance companies
 

MacJack

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Mac. . . I have a 2-door JLR Rubi with a steel bumper and went with the Maximus tow loops. I am very happy with the setup and like the clean look and having less stuff extending in front of me to bang into things. Others in this thread and forums have the standard bumper with the same tow loops, no issues as you might have read already. I'm not familiar with your tow bar - I have the BO Ascent - but make sure the adapter (the parts that fit over the tow loops) - are compatible with your tow bar. I had to remove the BO versions and buy compatible adapters from Maximus. Pin size should be the same as the holes, too, to avoid movement. You probably know this, but I've read the tow bars have a lifespan and those with a lot of miles might require maintenance or replacement.

If you've read a bunch in this thread, you've also noted the suggestion for wiring harnesses (I went with Cooltech, very happy), battery tender / charger (I use the one from RVi), and as others have pointed out, a braking system is not just a good idea, but the law in most, if not all, states. I have the RVi and am very happy with that as well. In one of my earlier posts I noted the standard safety cables that came with my BO tow bar didn't really fit on the lower hole of the Maximus tow loops, so I added rated clips that did fit. No issues. I also added an "always hot" 12v outlet under my dash for connecting to the RVi braking unit.

Don't forget to make sure your RV hitch aligns horizontally with the tow loops within specs i.e. almost level when on level ground to avoid creating a potential jackknife condition.

Good luck and safe travels!
WOW, thanks Al.... great insight and suggestions... You are right we both like the Maximus tow loops for same reason. I have towed other Jeeps with different RV and less is best in the front.

I too will have to remove the BO compiler versions and buy compatible adapters from Maximus to fit their tow loops.

As for braking, in the past both my class a and c had no problem with my TJ 2 door in fact I would tow the TJ behind my Lexus GX470 and it was a dream. Since I do not tow that much with RV and Jeep, just local trips on the Blue Ridge and area trails as a base camp. So going with MaxxTow Magnetic Tow Lights - Red and Amber LEDs - 4-Way Flat Connectors - 20' Long Harness. I have used the harness years ago when I had 2 or 3 Jeeps ago and not an issue to run wire and with steel back bumper they will work great.

Your farther input is welcome, I know it is hard not knowing how I plan to use the tow on a short trip as a matter of convenience but want it to be safe. FYI weight difference, the JLR is 1400 more lbs over the TJ.

I do have one question more... from your JLR with 33 inch tires?, how far off the ground is the tow loops. I think my RV is 29 inch but will have to double check.

Thank Al, I'm on the right track...
 

jeepixel

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WOW, thanks Al.... great insight and suggestions... You are right we both like the Maximus tow loops for same reason. I have towed other Jeeps with different RV and less is best in the front.

I too will have to remove the BO compiler versions and buy compatible adapters from Maximus to fit their tow loops.

As for braking, in the past both my class a and c had no problem with my TJ 2 door in fact I would tow the TJ behind my Lexus GX470 and it was a dream. Since I do not tow that much with RV and Jeep, just local trips on the Blue Ridge and area trails as a base camp. So going with MaxxTow Magnetic Tow Lights - Red and Amber LEDs - 4-Way Flat Connectors - 20' Long Harness. I have used the harness years ago when I had 2 or 3 Jeeps ago and not an issue to run wire and with steel back bumper they will work great.

Your farther input is welcome, I know it is hard not knowing how I plan to use the tow on a short trip as a matter of convenience but want it to be safe. FYI weight difference, the JLR is 1400 more lbs over the TJ.

I do have one question more... from your JLR with 33 inch tires?, how far off the ground is the tow loops. I think my RV is 29 inch but will have to double check.

Thank Al, I'm on the right track...
Let it be said there is no one answer that fits everybody and all conditions, but I'm probably preaching to the choir. I see many folks using the tow light option - I'm just too OCD for it! There are other reasonable options along with strong opinions for towing gear on this forum, all good intentions I believe. As with any mod, we all choose for ourselves after digesting waaaaaaay too much information, then diving in! I started from scratch on this same topic and have many forum users to thank.

Yes, I run stock 33's and it's about 19" from level ground to centerline of the upper / forward tow loop hole. I had to add a 4" drop receiver on my class C (WBGO View) to get them to align within specs. I also used locking hitch pins with matching keys for the receiver mount to ward off casual knuckleheads that might want to ruin my trip.
 

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