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Beadlock Nubie Question

Ratbert

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The fact that the bead lock or bead grip is on one side is kind of stupid cause you could roll the inside off the bead of either one of those wheels.
Bead grips are on the inner and outer beads.
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MntGoat

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My opinion over the years, I have actually only lost a bead 1 time, we have burped tires tho' multiple times, always the outer, if you look at how a wheel is made, the inner bead has a raised part on the wheel to lock it in.

Unless you run serious trails with 3 pounds of air, forget it. The inner never pops off...BUT when and if it does your in deep poo.

Have a tire shop "glue" outer bead and then lower to 10 or 12 and roll with it.

Here where we wheel, lots of rocks,mud,trees etc....and 3 pounds on a beadlock wheel is a good way to cut your tire, biggest reason to run beadlocks is for when bouncing side to side with low pressure, you wont pop the outer bead off.
This is why outer beadlocks only are normal.

Always carry starter fluid or brake cleaner (no Kali' kind) and a lighter ;)
 

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DonH63

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Couple of hand-waving follow-ups:

1. The primary safety issue arises because normal tire mounting uses tire pressure to seal to the wheel, so as long as the tire has sufficient air pressure, the tire is locked in place. If you get a nail, slash or bump it too hard, and cause a flat then the tire can come off the wheel. But in normal operation that won't happen.

Bead locks are basically a mechanical ring that locks the tire to the outside of the wheel. Air pressure is not required, but if any bolt is loose, you can get an air leak and run the tire flat during normal driving (or just parked). You must "actively" monitor the rings to ensure they remain tight. Normal driving causes the wheel and tire to heat up and cool down which, along with vibration, routinely loosens the bolts so constant maintenance is required.

2. Bead locks comprise a bead-lock capable wheel and corresponding bead ring that goes (bolts) on the outside to create a wheel-tire-ring sandwich. I thought "bead grip" was trademarked by Method (not sure), but Icon and other manufacturers have similar wheels. These have a "groove" machined into the inner wheel where the tire sits to help keep the tire in place under low (or any) pressure. The tire seats down into the groove, typically with ridges on either side to help keep the tire in place. Both sides of Method or Icon wheels have these "grip grooves" AFAIK so both sides ("inner" and "outer") of the tire are captured, unlike typical bead lock wheels that only grip the outer side. Look at some pictures of a regular wheel, and then Icon and Method wheel, and the difference is pretty clear. Tires are mounted on bead grip wheel like any other wheel, no special handling required, and other than monitoring air pressure as usual no additional maintenance is needed.
 

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DonH63

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Great pictures, thanks!

Even the non-bead grip Methods, like some other racing and off-road oriented wheels, actually have a little higher inner bead "bump" to help hold the tire bead on the inside edge a little better. Many wheels, at least that I have seen, have little to nothing to prevent the inner edge of the tire from being pressed from the outside to cause a leak. Notice how in this (random Internet) diagram there is little to prevent the inner side of the tire from being pushed away from the outer rim and thus losing air. "Performance" wheels often have a higher inner bump/ridge to help keep the tire in place against the wheel rim during hard cornering.

Jeep Wrangler JL Beadlock Nubie Question 1749312845754-xq
 
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2nd 392

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Great pics-analysis. How many with beadlock “capable” wheels need and run true beadlock and deal with the maintenance hassle, legalities, and lack of shops that will work on them especially our of your known area if an emergency repair is needed. They run with the beauty rings that are also a shop removal inconsistency with some charging extra to unnecessarily remove them (DT insisted on removal but to their credit didn’t charge extra). With the extra weight, shop inconsistencies, and lack of any other type of “bead grip” I replaced them with 10 lbs lighter performance OR wheels with what they call “anti-slip knurling”. The stock beadlock capable taking up storage space “just in case” - that’s unlikely.
 

The Last Cowboy

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If you really want bead locks, get a dedicated set of wheels/tires for the rare times you will need them. It makes zero sense to set your wheels up that way just for daily driving, or to have a conversation about them at Starbucks. Not only is it a hassle to get anyone to mount them, much less correctly, flats are a huge hassle. And forget about getting them balanced well, as clocking the tire becomes a major undertaking.
 
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Graphite JL

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Why do sok states' DOTs ban beadlock? If anything, they seem like they would be safer. They are less likely to have a tire come off the rim, as the bead is "locked" in. What am I missing?
I always thought it was because of the bolts. If one came loose and launched itself it could do some damage to oncoming traffic or pedestrians.
 

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Thanks for all the great info from all of you. I didn't realize all the work that went into maintaining beadlocks. When I'm on the trail I air down to 12psi and have never had an issue.

Since I'm getting an XR that come standard with beadlock capable wheels I was thinking why not just add the beadlock rings and be done with it. But sounds like if you mount as true beadlock, you're never really done with it. I like working on my Jeep, but retorquing once a month would be a PITA. Especially considering I'm only able to wheel a few weeks out of the year.
 

DonH63

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I always thought it was because of the bolts. If one came loose and launched itself it could do some damage to oncoming traffic or pedestrians.
That would explain the bolt retaining clips on the (few) DOT-approved bead lock wheels. The local DMV told me about the danger of not maintaining a pressure seal without proper maintenance, but likely that wasn't the whole story.
 

DonH63

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Thanks for all the great info from all of you. I didn't realize all the work that went into maintaining beadlocks. When I'm on the trail I air down to 12psi and have never had an issue.

Since I'm getting an XR that come standard with beadlock capable wheels I was thinking why not just add the beadlock rings and be done with it. But sounds like if you mount as true beadlock, you're never really done with it. I like working on my Jeep, but retorquing once a month would be a PITA. Especially considering I'm only able to wheel a few weeks out of the year.
It's an excellent question, and now you know "why not" for many of us. :)

Feel free to send me the $1200 you've saved... I'll be sure to share with the others. :LOL:
 

Ratbert

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It's an excellent question, and now you know "why not" for many of us. :)

Feel free to send me the $1200 you've saved... I'll be sure to share with the others. :LOL:
Plus installation. If I remember correctly, that's typically something like $600 to $800.
 

DonH63

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Plus installation. If I remember correctly, that's typically something like $600 to $800.
Yah, I assumed he'd do it himself, but you still have to haul the wheels and tires off to be balanced before it's all done. That seems high but I have not asked my local shop (and won't, not that interested, but they get something like $150/hour and it's probably a few hours' work).

So perhaps $2k -- I'll split it with you! :)
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