Beadlock Nubie Question

[AVGeek99]

I'm getting an Extreme Recon and I have a question about the wheels they come with. Everything on jeep.com says they are "beadlock capable". What exactly does that mean? Do they come with everthing to make them an actual beadlock? If not what is needed? Are there negatives for running beadlocks on a daily driver, or over long distances? Thanks.

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[kah.mun.rah]

The ring they come with is cosmetic but behind the beauty ring are the necessary holes to install a true beadlock ring. You have to purchase a separate ring to make them a true beadlock. One negative is that beadlocks are not DOT compliant in some states (which is probably why they come "beadlock capable" and not actual beadlocks from the factory).

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...MHQRUqQDrOslTKops0oq33C-dFtvxIjkaAtp_EALw_wcB

 

[Trails]

Why do sok states' DOTs ban beadlock? If anything, they seem like they would be safer. They are less likely to have a tire come off the rim, as the bead is "locked" in. What am I missing?

 

[kah.mun.rah]

Why do sok states' DOTs ban beadlock? If anything, they seem like they would be safer. They are less likely to have a tire come off the rim, as the bead is "locked" in. What am I missing?

AI overview:

• Safety Concerns: Beadlock wheels have a multi-piece design and rely on a mechanical clamping ring and bolts to secure the tire bead. This design, while excellent for off-road applications, raises safety concerns for high-speed highway driving due to potential issues like:
  • Bolt failure: Loose or improperly torqued bolts can lead to sudden air loss and potential accidents.
  • Improper installation: The installation of beadlock wheels is more involved than standard wheels, and errors during installation can compromise their integrity.
• Lack of Standardization: The DOT has specific standards for bead retention and construction methods for wheels used on public roads, and these typically involve traditional air-pressure-based bead seating rather than mechanical clamping methods. Most beadlock wheels haven't been tested and approved under these standards.

 

[SCJeeps]

Here is my 23 JLUR - XR with beadlocks installed. If you are going to run beadlocks you will likely have to mount them yourself and maintain the torque on the rings. No standard shop will mount them , and it is somewhat time consuming to make sure you get them properly seated and then follow the torque sequence. If you have any questions just let me know.

All you need is the ring and hardware, they come as a kit. Negatives would be potential liability since they are not DOT compliant and weight since you are adding rotating mass.

 

[azwjowner]

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...s-sample-of-cost-time-efforts-required.77683/

Most shops won’t work on them if you have a flat and need a patch, etc. You have to check the torque on the bolts regularly. It’s added expense and maintenance.

 

[Trails]

A couple more questions. I watched the video (posted earlier) on how to mount beadlocks. I had no idea that tbey are only locked on the outer side of the wheel. During off-road low inflation use, what prevents the bead from unseating on the inner side? It seems like having a strong chain with a weak link, and the weak link is the bead on the inner side of the wheel.

As for legality, has anyone been stopped and/or ticketed, or heard of anyone who was stopped and/or ticketed for using beadlocks on public roads? It seems the cops would have to be quie knowledgeable in what beadlocks are, and be able to determine if they are "real" bealocks versus the decorative ring "fake" beadlocks. ... And, if they are knowledgeabl on the topic, they are more likely to be off-road entusiasts who are more likely to let you go.

 

[Ratbert]

A couple more questions. I watched the video (posted earlier) on how to mount beadlocks. I had no idea that tbey are only locked on the outer side of the wheel. During off-road low inflation use, what prevents the bead from unseating on the inner side? It seems like having a strong chain with a weak link, and the weak link is the bead on the inner side of the wheel.

They make them where the inners lock too, but a lot of the pain associated with beadlocks goes up by 2x+.

Are you sure you want / need beadlocks? Have you looked at the alternatives (e.g. bead grips, etc.)?

 

[Trails]

They make them where the inners lock too, but a lot of the pain associated with beadlocks goes up by 2x+.

Are you sure you want / need beadlocks? Have you looked at the alternatives (e.g. bead grips, etc.)?

Thank you. I'm not looking to do beadlocks at this time, but trying to gain some knowledge on them as a "just in case" for the future.

 

[azwjowner]

There are a number of less expensive and unwieldily alternatives to full beadlocks. Consider trying things in order before jumping straight to beadlocks.

Before I would buy beadlocks, I would try the Icon Rebound Pro (uses removable pins to hold the bead, is safer, and can be serviced at normal tire shops).

Before I would buy the Rebound Pro, I would buy the Method Bead Grips (strong bead retention but no special parts required).

Before I would buy the Method Bead Grips, I would put the widest tire possible on my wheel or try narrower wheels (holds the bead better when aired down).

 

[AVGeek99]

It seems like they are kind of a hassle, especially for someone like me that lives in MN with no readily accessible off road trails. I make an annual trip to Moab and then one or two other trips throughout the year. But every where I go to wheel is several hundred miles minimum one way.

Is there a realistic safety hazard for running beadlocks on a daily driver, as long as you maintain and torque them regularly? I get they are not DOT approved so there is potential for ticket. My windows are tinted, I have no front license plate, my windshield is perpetually broken (we all know it's a Jeep thing), so add it to the list if I ever get pulled over.

I was thinking bring the rings with to Moab and then have a shop mount them and then put them back to normal the day before I go home. But that's two less days on the trail, and it sounds like shops won't mount them anyway.

 

[Ratbert]

It seems like they are kind of a hassle, especially for someone like me that lives in MN with no readily accessible off road trails. I make an annual trip to Moab and then one or two other trips throughout the year. But every where I go to wheel is several hundred miles minimum one way.

Is there a realistic safety hazard for running beadlocks on a daily driver, as long as you maintain and torque them regularly? I get they are not DOT approved so there is potential for ticket. My windows are tinted, I have no front license plate, my windshield is perpetually broken (we all know it's a Jeep thing), so add it to the list if I ever get pulled over.

I was thinking bring the rings with to Moab and then have a shop mount them and then put them back to normal the day before I go home. But that's two less days on the trail, and it sounds like shops won't mount them anyway.

It sure AF sounds like you don't need beadlocks. They're not needed for The Rubicon or the Moab trails you're most likely considering.

I thought I'd need them...just because I thought I'd need them. People here made me realize that no, I don't need them. Haven't regretted not having them.

 

[3TV]

I just did shopping for beadlocks today. The manager of the Les Schwab tire shop I am using says he has been told not to mount them. He likes to go rock crawling at Sand Hollow himself, and he knows me, and wants repeat business, so he said, "for you I would mount them". Then I showed him the Method 105 Beadlock wheels I wanted. Apparently, their distributor for Method wheels won't sell beadlock wheels to Les Schwab. This is even though I have bought two other sets of Method Bead Grip wheels from that Les Schwab store. Their distributor for Raceline wheels will sell beadlocks to Les Schwab. I like Raceline Avenger Beadlock wheels, but I have to change from black wheels to raw aluminum-colored wheels, which I am not sure I want to do. Then I start to think, what if I get a flat somewhere, and have to pull into a tire shop to get a tire replaced or repaired. They aren't going to want to work on it.

 

[DonH63]

Unless you are consistently running trails at <10 psi (more like 5) then bead locks are not necessary and a major PITA. As has been said, commercial shops generally will not touch them as they are illegal on-road in most states, and that leaves mounting and balancing to the owner (you). Some off-road shops will work on them, some (perhaps many, or most?) won't, due to liability issues. Mounting is usually do-able, but dynamic balancing is impractical for most folk, and even static balancing takes care and some experience. Fortunately (?) most tire shops will balance them for a nominal fee after you mount them if you bring them to the shop, assuming their machine handles the size and weight of our typically larger tires, then you take them and put them on the Jeep yourself.

Bead lock wheels are usually heavier to accommodate the bolts, plus the bead rings add more weight, so you are looking at a significantly heavier wheel. The bead lock on one side keeps the tire in place, so putting them on both sides is rarely done, and unnecessary for most of us. Most damage happens on the outer side anyway (but not all, natch). You do have to torque them carefully and check them often. Since you need to check the bolts regularly, having inner bead locks usually means you need a lift or taking the tires off to check and torque the inner bolts.

There are (expensive) DOT-approved bead lock wheels and rings that have special retaining clips on the bolts, but the Mopar rings are not that way. You can mount them with the inner bead inside the wheel (a normal non-bead lock mount) to be DOT approved, but normal bead lock mounting (tire rim outside wheel and inside the bead lock ring) is not DOT compliant with the Mopar rings (so using the Mopar rings for true bead locked tires is not DOT approved). If you want to be legal, mount them normally, then swap to regular bead lock configuration at your destination. Have fun.

Oh, they run ~$300/ring kit, I've rarely seen them more than 5 or 10 percent off, and you need four of them -- five if you want one on the spare.

I thought about them many years ago, but a friend had them, and I learned from his experience. He was a hard-core rock crawler who also did mud runs, but his solution was to mount regular wheels and carry the bead-locked set to install at the trail or pit. Most folk I knew (a small number) who had them trailered their Jeeps (or buggys) to the trail (or mud races) or had a second set of wheels and tires for driving to/from the trails (events).

A police officer likely won't know they are true bead locks and ticket you, but if you are in an accident, the insurance company may use them to deny coverage if they can contend they contributed to the accident.

Too much hassle for too little benefit for me. YMMV.

 

[AmericanPatriot100]

Method Bead grips are the option I’d go with. I’ve seen videos of them being consistently wheeled down to almost zero with no issues. They’re DOT approved which you’ve stated isn’t a deal breaker for you(or me!). But the cost of beadlocks is insane. The cost of bead grips is reasonable. The maintenance of bead grips is the same as most any other wheel. The fact that the bead lock or bead grip is on one side is kind of stupid cause you could roll the inside off the bead of either one of those wheels. For your(or my) application I’d say bead grips is the best bet. I do quite a bit more wheeling than you do since I have an ORV Park 20 minutes from the house. And my stock steel wheels with 35” MT BB ATs have served well over the 3066 miles I have on my jeep so far.

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