Article: Possible fix for 3.6

[Willys41]

I can only hope that the changes that I have made will help prevent rocker arms from failing.
Valvoline European Full Synthetic SAE 5W-40. Higher ZDDP than 0w20 and 5w30.
RPM Extreme JL fan controller has lowered my coolant and oil temps by 25 degrees.
Baxter oil filter adapter. NO more bone chilling RATTLE RATTLE on start ups.

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[Deleted User 38384]

I posted this in another thread recently, but here's a repost as it's relevant. I'd say Jeep has some kind of idea what's going on:

I bought my 23 JTR in September of 23, but the build date on it is very early 23. When I took it in for it's very first wave oil change, they called me while it was in and said they had to perform a service bulletin on it, replacing the intake lifters. Mind you, I didn't complain of noise or any issues, I was quite shocked to get the call that they were doing this. This 3.6 was just as quiet and smooth as the one in my 20 JTO was. And after the repair, still sounded quiet and smooth.

On the invoice it says RRT 23-131 was performed. Here's a copy of the work order if it's helpful to anyone. No idea why my truck got this, and my friends JTR, same spec, bought the same day, from the same dealer, did not. But the dealer said my truck was flagged for this in the system, even they weren't sure why, first time they had seen it.

Maybe they identified the lot numbers for the parts that were failing... Maybe?

Though that doesn't necessarily coincide with how they handle much of their other shitty quality work and parts.

It's pretty strange. I'd be curious to know why they flagged your vehicle specifically.

 

[Erievon]

Maybe they identified the lot numbers for the parts that were failing... Maybe?

Though that doesn't necessarily coincide with how they handle much of their other shitty quality work and parts.

It's pretty strange. I'd be curious to know why they flagged your vehicle specifically.

That's my hope too. Maybe if someone has access to the service system they can run RRT 23-131 and see what it says. I googled it, but only result is my post on the JT forum. I can't be the only one.

 

[Spank]

I replaced cams, rockers, and lifters around this time last year and could not tell the difference between new, "revised" parts versus what they put in there back in what would've been 2017.

 

[Deleted Member RoadNomad]

The ultimate fix for the Pentastar 3.6, Dynamite, then install a LS or Hemi, Problem solved!

 

[JJMalone]

The ultimate fix for the Pentastar 3.6, Dynamite, then install a LS or Hemi, Problem solved!

I've owned vehicles powered by LS motors (LS6 and LS7) and own a hemi. The 3.6 is more reliable then any of these motors long term. Make sure your motor is thoroughly warmed up before hammering on it, always run clean oil and never run if the cooling system is not working properly and the 3.6 will serve you well. There is no perfect engine and never will be. Every part has a service life and is on the clock the minute it is put in use.

 

[azjl#3]

Is this another AI written article about nothing?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[azjl#3]

I've owned vehicles powered by LS motors (LS6 and LS7) and own a hemi. The 3.6 is more reliable then any of these motors long term. Make sure your motor is thoroughly warmed up before hammering on it, always run clean oil and never run if the cooling system is not working properly and the 3.6 will serve you well. There is no perfect engine and never will be. Every part has a service life and is on the clock the minute it is put in use.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[Odyssey USA]

This is a great thread I just came across. I’ve switched to a 5w-40 Euro spec (API SP too) myself.

The main reason I’m choosing that high quality multi grade is that I’m relying on research of flat tappet cam lobes being wiped out in short order and the history on it. It’s not just lower zddp, anti wear additives compared to 25 years ago, it’s viscosity and the typical 5w-30 or 10w-30 wasn’t cutting it. I’m trying to recall the video but it was Lake Speed Jr working with a company on that video. Cliff notes…they found that an oil with a HTHS @ 150°C of 3.8-4.1 worked best. This also applies to high shear needle bearings and timing chain links which timing chain protection is a big factor in Euro oil specs. A Euro spec 5w-40 should be on the low end of that range. So to protect the follower and accompanying high lift lobe I notice has been wiped out often for those with issues, and the fact it’s actuated similar (though likely no .001” crown like on a tappet) to a flat tappet cam, I’m thinking it’s a good move. If I change my mind, I don’t mind sharing that either. I’ve realize some may not feel comfortable with doing this, especially while under warranty. I get it.

 

[Willys41]

Great thread I just came across. I’ve switched to a 5w-40 Euro spec (API SP too) myself.

The main reason I’m choosing that high quality multi grade is that I’m relying on research of flat tappet cam lobes being wiped out in short order and the history on it. It’s not just lower zddp, anti wear additives compared to 25 years ago, it’s viscosity and the typical 5w-30 or 10w-30 wasn’t cutting it. I’m trying to recall the video but it was Lake Speed Jr working with a company on that video. Cliff notes…they found a an oil with a HTHS @ 150°C of 3.8-4.1 worked best. This also applies to high shear needle bearings and timing chain links which timing chain protection is a big factor in Euro oil specs. A Euro spec 5w-40 should be on the low end of that range. So to protect the follower and accompanying high lift lobe I notice has been wiped out often for those with issues, and the fact it’s actuated similar (though likely no .001” crown like on a tappet) to a flat tappet cam, I’m thinking it’s a good move. If I change my mind, I don’t mind sharing that either. I’ve realize some may not feel comfortable with doing this, especially while under warranty. I get it.

I agree and have also switched to European 5w40. It just makes scene.

 

[1BadManVan]

I agree and have also switched to European 5w40. It just makes scene.

Ive been switching my fleet over to 0w30 euro oil since it seems easier to find than 5w40. The jeep is getting it next, though I still have a large stash of Mobil 1 EP 0w20 in the garage to use up. Just not sure if im comfortable to keep running that oil, especially during the hot summer months and doing lots of low speed crawling

 

[roaniecowpony]

I've owned vehicles powered by LS motors (LS6 and LS7) and own a hemi. The 3.6 is more reliable then any of these motors long term. Make sure your motor is thoroughly warmed up before hammering on it, always run clean oil and never run if the cooling system is not working properly and the 3.6 will serve you well. There is no perfect engine and never will be. Every part has a service life and is on the clock the minute it is put in use.

I have maybe half a million miles on LS and LT engines. None of them shit the bed. One is still chugging along well beyond 300k and 25 years. But one little foray into the 3.6L and it shits the bed at 34K miles. A friend with a jeep shop who also races and recreates in jeeps admitted these engines are not all that reliable. Just my experience. YMMV

 

[JJMalone]

Yeah, I got no problem with any of these motors. The LS 7s occasionally drop valves which is catastrophic. As you well know any motor can have a part fail even if it's a hose, or water pump, etc. I just trust my 3.6 as it is quiet, Idles down with all cylinders firing equally, (which indicates that all cylinders have equal compression) and consistently gives great mileage. (another indication of healthy motor). Mine now has 165,000 miles on it and runs as new except it gets about 4 mpg better then when it was new.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Yeah, I got no problem with any of these motors. The LS 7s occasionally drop valves which is catastrophic. As you well know any motor can have a part fail even if it's a hose, or water pump, etc. I just trust my 3.6 as it is quiet, Idles down with all cylinders firing equally, (which indicates that all cylinders have equal compression) and consistently gives great mileage. (another indication of healthy motor). Mine now has 165,000 miles on it and runs as new except it gets about 4 mpg better then when it was new.

Yeah, I got no problem with any of these motors. The LS 7s occasionally drop valves which is catastrophic. As you well know any motor can have a part fail even if it's a hose, or water pump, etc. I just trust my 3.6 as it is quiet, Idles down with all cylinders firing equally, (which indicates that all cylinders have equal compression) and consistently gives great mileage. (another indication of healthy motor). Mine now has 165,000 miles on it and runs as new except it gets about 4 mpg better then when it was new.

My miles were with more "pedestrian" versions. LQ4, L76, L99, and L83. They all worked well. The L76 in my Vmax pickup made it to well past 300k miles before the AFM lifters gave out with my brother. My current L83 5.3 in a 14 GMC is at 115k and still running like a top. But the trans is done.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

Sometimes I wonder why I'm getting updates to threads that I know nothing about, like in this case the 3.6L V6 in the Wrangler, and then I go up and I look at the topic Creator and I realize it's me...

"I don't remember doing that!"

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