Anyone else thinking about axles?

[Frezski]

That raises another question. I’m currently sitting on 1” Tereflex suspension spacers to provide some lift for the trails and all it seems to have done is made things stiff. It’s just a bandaid until Metal Cloak or another manufacturer releases a suspension for the 392.
So does it makes sense to wait until the axles get installed, then do suspension so you can have proper measurement of the drive shafts?

Everybody else has a different method to the madness. After playing around for bit with different offroaders over the years, I try take an approach that minimizes the waste in spending in doing things over again. Like @wibornz said, hindsight is 20/20. Sometimes it's unavoidable. When I get to that stage, I plan on preparing to get it all done at once. Its a steep investment, however I'm no engineer and for me packaging is a problem until it's lifted. Top that off, typical axle upgrades cause the need for new driveshafts anyways. Then add the proper length needed after the lift. If you know exactly what you're after or what your end goal is, then my advice would be to save. Wait until more 392 products start coming available, then knock it out.

Sorry I don't own a factory 392, so I am not sure what kind of drive shaft set up they put in those. I hope its something a little bit more robust that what is on the the regular 3.6/2.0 JLs. If you end up jumping to axles and drive shafts before the lift, adjusting the length of the driveshaft is not that big of a deal with a good drive line shop. Hope that helps.

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[Outrun]

It's pretty cheap inexpensive insurance at that point -- one of those things do it once do it right, if you're spending $17k might as well spend $20k and never have to think again. Not to say you couldn't break it of course

I'm running 1200 horsepower in my JK. Trust me, you can break anything (and one of the reasons I went with a manual valve body 4L80 as opposed to a 6L80E). You'll keep things alive though if you're smart about it. Then again, I most likely won't break anything because I'll run out of gas before I get to the obstacle. Pretty much just need to tow a gas station along side.

1200hp must feel amazing!
What engine setup are you running?

 

[Outrun]

@guarnibl

Also, if you are breaking things have you looked into Axletech? You break one of those even with 1200hp I will give you a medal lol.

 

[guarnibl]

1200hp must feel amazing!
What engine setup are you running?

We're running a built 427 from Mast Motorsports with a 3.0 Whipple on E85.

 

[guarnibl]

@guarnibl

Also, if you are breaking things have you looked into Axletech? You break one of those even with 1200hp I will give you a medal lol.

I haven't broken anything with the recent Currie D70 and 40 spline 300mm shafts upgrade. We did break 3 ARB air lockers, though. Not their issue, ours. We're running an elocker now which is proving to be better.

 

[Outrun]

We're running a built 427 from Mast Motorsports with a 3.0 Whipple on E85.

I haven't broken anything with the recent Currie D70 and 40 spline 300mm shafts upgrade. We did break 3 ARB air lockers, though. Not their issue, ours. We're running an elocker now which is proving to be better.

That is awesome! Mast makes the craziest motors.

Regarding the elockers I like them so much better than air. I really wish they they would make them for larger axles. Either that or make a drop out 70 like the Sixty9 axle because I prefer the fab housings to save as much weight as possible.

 

[AFdude]

I'm currently swapping in Dynatrac XD60's in my 392. I want to be able to use the V8 power in 2WD without worrying about breaking parts.

I agree with the others, it's not worth the money to build up a D44 if you plan on big tires and using it offroad.

How as the install been? I just got off the phone with Dynatrac and plan to go with ProRock XD60's as well. They did say that the Rear UCA mounts will come tac welded due to the position is different on the 392.

Any words so far?

 

[beckbuilt]

How as the install been? I just got off the phone with Dynatrac and plan to go with ProRock XD60's as well. They did say that the Rear UCA mounts will come tac welded due to the position is different on the 392.

Any words so far?

I’ve got both axles bolted in. I cycled them with out springs and have no issues. They fit great with evo arms and Rock Jock track bars.

 

[Bluewaveaudio]

That is awesome! Mast makes the craziest motors.

Regarding the elockers I like them so much better than air. I really wish they they would make them for larger axles. Either that or make a drop out 70 like the Sixty9 axle because I prefer the fab housings to save as much weight as possible.

im running a tru hi 9 in the front and a torq 14 bolt drop out 3rd member in the rear, both 40 splines with curie M300 shafts, haven't broken one yet. we are 680 rwhp (dyno'ed with 40s) on an LSA tvs 2650 blower.

 

[ozon8r]

I was thinking about installing RCVs front and rear on the stock m210 front and m220 rear (d44). A local shop told me that the front RCV axles are not designed to run full time 4 wheel drive and would need to use the taser to force tranny into 2 hi. The way I drive, not sure l want all the 392 torque limited to the rear daily driving even if I upgrade to 1350s.

Anybody on hear go to RCVs and if so, any concerns about staying in 4 hi on stock axles and drive shafts?

 

[Outrun]

I was thinking about installing RCVs front and rear on the stock m210 front and m220 rear (d44). A local shop told me that the front RCV axles are not designed to run full time 4 wheel drive and would need to use the taser to force tranny into 2 hi. The way I drive, not sure l want all the 392 torque limited to the rear daily driving even if I upgrade to 1350s.

Anybody on hear go to RCVs and if so, any concerns about staying in 4 hi on stock axles and drive shafts?

No problem with RCV's and full-time 4WD. You have to grease them like every 5k or oil change through the stub ends. They can put zerks on for you no problem.

 

[ozon8r]

No problem with RCV's and full-time 4WD. You have to grease them like every 5k or oil change through the stub ends. They can put zerks on for you no problem.

Thank you and pretty consistent with a subsequent to my note above reply from RCV. Although I had RCVs on my JK, I thought the grease zerks were already there. Can you explain what you are referring too by adding zerks to stub ends? I can't visualize that.

 

[Outrun]

Thank you and pretty consistent with a subsequent to my note above reply from RCV. Although I had RCVs on my JK, I thought the grease zerks were already there. Can you explain what you are referring too by adding zerks to stub ends? I can't visualize that.

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