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Another 3.6 thread… bulletproofing?

BigRedRidinHood

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Dorman makes several major parts for the 3.6 that replace plastic pieces with aluminum. They are an OEM grade supplier so I would trust them with replacing plastic bits in your engine. Check it out on their site.
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BigRedRidinHood

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The reality is if you have the 3.6 it wont coat your intake valves or runners. I have seen an example of a 3.6 with 120k miles. They look brand new. Gasoline does a great job keep them clean.
You are probably right c20040215 with Multi Port Injection (vs GDI), but I am still happy to have a good clean combustion with pure gasoline and no blowby being fed back into the combustion chambers. I feel my engine makes a lot of power, and I have driven a 392 and a 4Xe. Maybe it's the premium gas, the cat back, the catch can, the CAI, the eTorque, the tow package axle or all of the above. But I must confess I am considering a 5.7 hemi swap from America's Most Wanted because of that V8 sound that says God Bless America!
 

azjl#3

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WOT is a theory to get oil up the passages to the top end more occasionally. It doesn’t take WOT to do that, but it does take a heavier foot. I’ve watched the oil pressure while driving and it stays at the 30PSI pump mode for quite a few RPM’s before kicking it up to higher PSI. A good hill climb will do it.
_W-30 oil is the best option for these engines, along with 5000 mile oil changes. There are always anomaly’s out there, with the main one being that 0w-20 will get to 150,000 miles no problem. That seems true on vehicles that are driven a lot, for distance or long time.
These are not short trip engines, as I learned in our minivan that only made it 135,000 miles before dropping a valve. It saw lots of short trips.
I agree, my theory is idle rpm is plenty to get oil everywhere it needs to be. Or else every engine would die.
 
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ajbarbier

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People say this, people say that.. Did you bother to find out for yourself?
What do you mean the best? Doorman dweeb with marketing degree says that aluminum holds superiority over oem plastic fantastic.
Doorman is aluminum replica of the original problematic design. So what say you, is it the metal vs plastic problem, or old vs new seal problem ?
To answer your question, yes I’ve done a lot of research. Some say the Dorman, but it still looks like it has the figure 8 gaskets. Some say OEM, but then bring up the failure rate- hence the question: which is the better option?
 

X35

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To answer your question, yes I’ve done a lot of research. Some say the Dorman, but it still looks like it has the figure 8 gaskets. Some say OEM, but then bring up the failure rate- hence the question: which is the better option?
The correct answer is the OEM housing with the redesigned seals and then change your own oil and properly torque the filter housing. You won’t have any issues.
 

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jadmt

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mwilk012

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The “plastic parts” discussion is complete and utter nonsense, distractions from the real issues. There is nothing you can do besides regular maintenance. I would never, ever install an aftermarket thermostat housing on a 3.6. The oil cooler housing does not fail because it is plastic. The seals fail. There is nothing to do but repair it when it is time. Repair the valve train whenever it gets noisy, don’t wait for a misfire. Service your fluids on schedule. Don’t overthink it.
 

Leights7

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Mopar new version oil filter housing.
Change oil every 5K miles or so.
Keep up on the other fluid changes.
Enjoy!
Hi - do we know when that new version was released? I have a 2024 JL…
 

azjl#3

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I know I initially brought this up, but the 3.6L blown head gaskets are something that is in all honest probably overblown (no pun intended). You typically hear about the failures not the successes. There are millions of 3.6 PUGs out there and only a small percent have experienced blown head gaskets—at least as the leading cause of failure. It's common enough that it is discussed because even a small percent of millions is thousands to tens of thousands. I only brought it up in the context of bulletproofing, but after looking it up, it isn't a feasible preventative measure.
Just googled, there are now over 16,000,000 3.6 engines out there. I was saying 6 mil, but undershot, if 100,000 have blown heads or bad valve components, thats 6 tenths of 1 percent.

Fix or repair daily, gotta mechanic coming, hundred dollars, the list is endless.
 

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OminousSkitter

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Just googled, there are now over 16,000,000 3.6 engines out there. I was saying 6 mil, but undershot, if 100,000 have blown heads or bad valve components, thats 6 tenths of 1 percent.

Fix or repair daily, gotta mechanic coming, hundred dollars, the list is endless.
Some sources state there are ~16,000,000 Pentastars - around 40% (6.4 million) are the PUG variant in our JLs (and around 6% aren't a 3.6L). I've read other estimates that say around 7-9 million are the 3.6L PUG.

Not sure what (counter?)point you're trying to make. Are you saying 0.625% or 100,000 is good or bad in your opinion? Regardless, unless you have actual failure numbers, it's all guesswork.

My only point is when you're talking about millions, even a small percent is a lot of total failures. We hear about the failures - not the ones that don't fail -, so failures tend to overrepresent the discussion.
 

AVENTUS

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-5W30 full syn oil changes every 5,000 miles max
-Spill and fill trans, t-case, and diffs every 30k
-Drive it hard, these engines gunk up if they don’t get run hard
-Run 89 octane minimum, these pull timing and ping and knock on 87 especially in hot weather
-Consider getting a tune to have VVL and cam timing manipulated, the high lift function of VVL is not used for power and it is a very harsh engagement on the cam shaft and I have reason to believe it contributes to cam lobe failure on these newer PUG units.
Any specific brands/types of 5W30, and other fluids ?

any downsides of constantly running 92-93 octane Shell/Mobil/BP ?

Techron additives how often ?
 

BigRedRidinHood

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Here is the Dorman YouTube that discusses why using aluminum parts are better than plastic. Parts with plastic expand and contract at different rates than aluminum, causing premature failure on rubber gaskets over repeated cold to hot cycles.
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