Another 3.6 thread… bulletproofing?

[AA_Jeeper]

Welcome. Outside of what others have mentioned, it's been recommended to add (and I use) Liquid Moly in every oil change. I have no evidence this helps, but it shouldn't hurt.

I also pray a lot.

Amazon.com: Liqui Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment | 300 ml | Oil additive | SKU: 2009 : Automotive

Also, welcome to the club, you're gonna love your Jeep. I also have a 2018 Sport S and have been having a great time with it so far. I have a long list of things I've done on my build page, so feel free to reach out if you have questions.

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[svtrit]

WOT is a theory to get oil up the passages to the top end more occasionally. It doesn’t take WOT to do that, but it does take a heavier foot. I’ve watched the oil pressure while driving and it stays at the 30PSI pump mode for quite a few RPM’s before kicking it up to higher PSI. A good hill climb will do it.
_W-30 oil is the best option for these engines, along with 5000 mile oil changes. There are always anomaly’s out there, with the main one being that 0w-20 will get to 150,000 miles no problem. That seems true on vehicles that are driven a lot, for distance or long time.
These are not short trip engines, as I learned in our minivan that only made it 135,000 miles before dropping a valve. It saw lots of short trips.

 

[c20040215]

These are not short trip engines, as I learned in our minivan that only made it 135,000 miles before dropping a valve. It saw lots of short trips.

This is true for ALL engines. Engine A that sees one 50 mile trip per day, and engine B that sees 5 separate 10 mile trips per day. Engine A will have a better condition and less wear than Engine B after 100,000 miles.

 

[GabeBoyTheGreat]

A couple things I forgot to mention:

1. Make sure to disable start/stop.

2. I like to put a can of Seafoam in my fuel around the same time that I change my oil. This helps keep the fuel system clean.

 

[Bryce]

How many miles are already on it? Know its maintenance history?

The only thing I'd add is a theory behind the blown head gaskets is the bolts are under-torqued from the factory. You might want to check those.

You do you, but I don't think it's a good idea to retorque Torque to Yield head bolts.

 

[svtrit]

This is true for ALL engines. Engine A that sees one 50 mile trip per day, and engine B that sees 5 separate 10 mile trips per day. Engine A will have a better condition and less wear than Engine B after 100,000 miles.

Agree, but three vehicles prior that van and did not have a 3.6L made it to 160,000 (and more, as that is when I sold them) without using a drop of oil, but the 3.6L did not survive. The previous owners of that van and did not change the oil at 5000 miles, following the OLM, which I think also contributed to the engine's demise.

 

[Nvdardx28]

I just bought a 2018 sport and I’m in love with it. Trying to take preventative measures to make sure I don’t develop lifter tick or anything involving coolant issues. I already know I have a small leak already- so that begs the question: what can be done preventatively to keep the engine healthy? I know the 3.6 can be very reliable. I also know it can be very unreliable.

So far what I have is-
Aluminum oil filter housing
Rpm fan controller
Baxter oil drain back.

Let me know what else?

You should consider a catch can, I've had one on mine since 5k miles and you wont believe how much dirty gas gets filtered from your intake.

 

[Upnarms]

I did everything right, mobile 1 synth every 5k, and still got the bad rocker arms/cam issue at 57k mi. Warrantied but I don't have much faith in the motor. I bought an extended service thing that I never buy, as insurance. Seems to be luck of the draw I guess.

I do run 5w30 now. I'm in az and it gets run pretty hot here. I think the engine just sounds better with 5w30 if nothing else. I ran 0w20 before the issue.

 

[c20040215]

You should consider a catch can, I've had one on mine since 5k miles and you wont believe how much dirty gas gets filtered from your intake.

I have had the catch can for a long time...

However, a while back I was helping my buddy working on his minivan that has about 120K miles, valvetrain of course. I looked inside of all the intake runners and intake valves, they all look like brand new with no deposit. And I started to question the need for a catch can.

I guess in my use case, it also serves as a buffer when I am at a steep angle. Buys me more time before it starts white smoking...

It is nice to have, but as far as helping the engine longevity, I am not sure.

 

[BigRedRidinHood]

Here is what I have done
Oil Catch Can
5 W 30 synthetic
oil and filter change every 5000 miles
Added Tribotex to engine oil
Added Lucas valve cleaner to gasoline
Use only top tier premium grade fuel (saw interview on YouTUbe with Mopar engineer claiming V6 runs better on premium)
Torque new oil filter on housing according to specs, do not over tighten
Used Magnetic oil pan drain plug and torque as directed
Service transmission every 60,000, it is not lifetime fluid according ZF

I think if you are generous to your engine in terms of fuel quality and frequency of oil changes, then your Jeep will last a very long time. I think fuel quality s much more important than we really know. Some cheap fuel brands are really bad for your truck. Costco is really good. Sams Club is apparently very spotty in terms of quality.

 

[DRVMN]

97K on mine, and it's been perfect. Oil changes every 5. I did the plugs at 90k and had them (my shop, not a dealer) put in the new design OEM oil filter housing just as a preventative. I do my own oil changes, so no oil monkey over torqued the housing.

Also just switched to Valvoline Restore & Protect. I use 0W-20 like the book says. I also do not agree with the WOT runs. Just why do it??

My GF's JK has had the same treatment and it's around 90K. (she did need a thermostat a little while back).

G.

I think the rationale behind WOT is to get the oil pressure above 32 p.s.i. so the oil "flushes" through the lifters and oil passages. I remember reading something about that on a different thread, and the post was written by a 3.6 Pentastar Engineer.

 

[Scopedog]

I already know I have a small leak

Have you replaced the gascap? The gasket may be dried out and cracked.

 

[croppz]

You should consider a catch can, I've had one on mine since 5k miles and you wont believe how much dirty gas gets filtered from your intake.

Worth noting most of what gets caught in catch cans in condensation/a little bit of oil and some fuel vapor. All of which get burned off basically in the first couple mins of the engine starting. Wouldn’t recommend in very cold climates as the lines can and will freeze if there is condensation in them causing issues. Seen it many times. Most of the time it’s just best to let the factory PCV system do its job unless you drive a race car

 

[BigRedRidinHood]

My catch can accumulates jet black oil pretty quickly, and I really see no water/oil separation in the canister at all. I am glad that sludge is not coating my valves!

 

[c20040215]

My catch can accumulates jet black oil pretty quickly, and I really see no water/oil separation in the canister at all. I am glad that sludge is not coating my valves!

The reality is if you have the 3.6 it wont coat your intake valves or runners. I have seen an example of a 3.6 with 120k miles. They look brand new. Gasoline does a great job keep them clean.

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